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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after driving around a bit over the summer there were a few 'to close for comfort' type of standing on the brakes to stop moments.
Also I try n tap the brake before coming to a stop because every once in a while the steering wheel jerks to the left pretty hard almost out of my hand if I'm not ready for it.
And a few times while coming to a stop it feels like the pedal hits the breaking point and then sort of slowly sinks further to the floor.
Took all the tires off and checked the brakes. It doesn't seem to leaking any fluid and the shoes are good.

I'm considering the disc brake upgrade for the front but I'm still doing the research on it. Since all the other issues that may come from this (new rims n tires, clearance since I also have rear skirts so what will fit there??) I was also considering just rebuilding the drum set up and maybe add the dual m/c.

My 6 year old daughter loves going for rides in the nova and I just want it to be as safe as possible.
 

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I too have to use the "two feet, stand on it" method. Would definitely enjoy either adding a booster or a disc upgrade. There are plenty of kits available for all four disc upgrade or just the front, I just don't have the $$ for them. I rebuilt the front drum setup though, new springs and cylinders. That was pretty cheap, but no real performance increase.
 

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Drum brakes WITH a dual master work just fine, they were safe when GM designed them and they have been safe for decades. Hell, I raced my car right up until this year with drum brakes.

If drum brakes are done properly they are all you really need on a street car. And you don't need power brakes.
 

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Are your breaks self adjusting and if so is the self adjuster working? If not you may have the breaks adjusted uneven. You may also have a stuck wheel cylinder. As for the pedal going to the floor, I would look at the master cylinder having issues.
 

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My 63 has drum brakes with a dual master cylinder and it pulls hard to the left then back finally to the center. Everything looks good inside the drums and I have adjusted the brakes until I'm blue in the face so now I'm in the process of putting disc on the front. The one thing I didn't check when the drums were still on the car was the rubber brake hoses and I have always changed them in the past on old cars and that has fixed the brakes pulling to one side. They might look great on the outside but usually they are swelled on the inside if they have age on them.
 

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My 63 has drum brakes with a dual master cylinder and it pulls hard to the left then back finally to the center. Everything looks good inside the drums and I have adjusted the brakes until I'm blue in the face so now I'm in the process of putting disc on the front. The one thing I didn't check when the drums were still on the car was the rubber brake hoses and I have always changed them in the past on old cars and that has fixed the brakes pulling to one side. They might look great on the outside but usually they are swelled on the inside if they have age on them.
What condition are your front suspension parts?

It makes a difference.

Worn control arm bushings, worn strut rod bushings, loose wheel bearings, etc. will effect braking and pulling is just one of the ways.
 

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What condition are your front suspension parts?

It makes a difference.

Worn control arm bushings, worn strut rod bushings, loose wheel bearings, etc. will effect braking and pulling is just one of the ways.
Everything was good but like I said I didn't change the rubber hoses. I'm a old guy and have worked on lots of old cars and I have almost always found problems with the rubber hoses on old cars no matter what they look like on the outside. Just my two cents worth.
 

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Everything was good but like I said I didn't change the rubber hoses. I'm a old guy and have worked on lots of old cars and I have almost always found problems with the rubber hoses on old cars no matter what they look like on the outside. Just my two cents worth.
Absolutely! The hoses can cause issues as well. I didn't mention it because you already did.

By the way............. Old guys (d)rule!!! :drool: :D :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Front end is good. I just redid all the springs and shocks all the way around and was looking for anything else to do in the front while I had it up and apart.
The hoses don't look bad at all. Almost newer looking (on the outside :D)
 

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Front end is good. I just redid all the springs and shocks all the way around and was looking for anything else to do in the front while I had it up and apart.
The hoses don't look bad at all. Almost newer looking (on the outside :D)
Hoses can appear good on the outside but can be deteriorated on the inside.

Did you replace your strut rod bushings or control arm bushings?
 

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for what its worth

I'm new to working on cars and got some help from guys on here but I did just go through my brakes and the one thing you said that caught me was "And a few times while coming to a stop it feels like the pedal hits the breaking point and then sort of slowly sinks further to the floor." My 66 was also having an issue where it would stop, then the pedal would slowly go to the floor and the car would start moving again (and not when i wanted it too!). Replaced the master cylinder and it seems to have fixed the problem.

I am going to continue following this thread, because i do still have the pulling to the left issue when i hit the brakes hard, haven't figured that out yet. Good Luck!
 

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Drum brakes WITH a dual master work just fine, they were safe when GM designed them and they have been safe for decades. Hell, I raced my car right up until this year with drum brakes.

If drum brakes are done properly they are all you really need on a street car. And you don't need power brakes.
I fully agree.
 
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