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· Premium Member
1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Paterns shown here are for a 64 ChevyII

Here are some tips on how I make my poster board paterns.

Most of my paterns have been made before the rusted metal is cut from the car.

Some paterns can be reversed and used on both side of the car.

May help to label them (top, front, Ect.)

Can be made in more than one piece and taped together.

Here I have cut a piece to fit in the side of the cowl for making a patern for the vent opening.

I am using my fingers to rub on the poster board and leave the outline of the opening. If you have a little dirt on them it can only help the ouline show up.

Now I am traceing the outline to make it easier to see. This is the side that was faceing the opening. Sometimes there is more dirt on the car than your fingers and this side shows up better.

Here I have cut the hole out to small to be sure how it lines up before I cut it out to the line I have drawn on it.

Vent opening partern ready to use.

Here you can see that the posterboard can be folder around corners if need be. I am making a patern for the upper panel that forms the front of the cowl side.

Using fingers to outline the outer edge of the patern.

The very top corner of the panel was still there at the brake in the metal,I was able to mark a starting point. I also eye balled the other side to help find a lower referance point for the top edge.

Here I have outlined the main part or the panel useing the creases I made with my fingers.

The first part of the outer lip was strait for 5" as far as I could tell. Here I Am marking the first part of the lip at 1" wide.

Next I added the outer edge of the lip at 3/4" wide. I made the lower 5 " of the lip as part of the panel.

Main part of partern after cutting out. This is a good time to see how the patern fits the part and tim if needed.

The upper part of the outer lip is curved and I made a patern for the outter lip the the rubber seal was stapled onto.

Here are the paterns when done. The space between the main panel and the outer lip will be filled with a 1" strip that will be tack welded and bent as I go to meet the curve of the main Panel. Then the outer lip will be tacked on.

Stitch weld it all and plan on girnding. Keep it cool.

Other paterns I have made in the past.

End of frame at the rear leaf spring mount.

Trunk drop panel. Made a patern for the drivers side were the gas tank filler pipe is. The other piece is a add on to make the patern work on the Passernger side also.

· Registered
446 Posts
Good information. Some dont realize that the right poster board can be folded like a brake in steel to test for fitment.

We make 'boot tee' fittings and some can be pretty involved and its funny to watch the engineers cut one out of paper, fold it, bring it to me and say "see go ahead and release it to the shop, it works" Slight difference between a 4" high paper and 15 foot tall metal version. although same principle.

· Premium Member
5,014 Posts
My biggest problem when mig welding car sheet metal is usually not the welding itself, but cutting the metal to fit, so like I said on your kick panel thread, this is a great tip, and I hope it helps someone out. Fortunately for me, all my bodywork is done. Until I decide to minitub it or something. :D

· Registered
3,995 Posts
Great post!! I do it the same way. A pressing on the PB with your fingers or a sharp piece of steel, even a screwdriver makes transferring the hole onto the PB easy.

I do mostly butt welds and after cutting the PB its almost the right gap if I draw the line with a sharpie pen and cut the inside of the line. And I like the taped sections you show. I have had some really ugly taped templates, not nearly as nice as your work. Thanks for the great post.

Oh, and I cut all my sheet metal with a plasma cutter and the PB gets taped on with a couple strips of masking tape and the plasma tip rides right along the PB no problem (account for the extra 1/16"). And if Im on my game and moving fast enough as I should be it doesn't burn the PB at all. If Im making a few parts I can reuse it just fine.

Good tech info. Id sticky it (if this were my site :) ) and add to it with other simple tips for the body work guys. This kind of stuff gets lost forever after a few months. JR

· Premium Member
1,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks For your 2 cents

I like the extra tips I didn't think to try a piece of metal or sharp object. Some times you might almost go clear through the P B and not need to cut it.

I wish I had a plasma, just snips and electric shear.

I'm glad you all like it and think my 2nd post using photo bucket is worhy of being sticky. As Our ChevyII/novas get older this bodywork type info can only be needed even more than it is now.

Think maybe I had beter get started on My 3rd Post soon.

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