Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 123 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I have been kicking the idea around for a while now. I decided to crap or get off the pot:D. Problem is budget:rolleyes:. So I have been watching CL and reading threads on here and lstech. If anyone has some advise along the way I would appreciate it.

I started hunting down a engine. I can not afford the LS1 so I have been looking for a 5.3 or 6.0. I found a guy on CL selling a motor that he is still running in his tahoe. He purchased a LKQ 28K motor and was having his mechanic do the swap after the first of the year. The current motor has 150K but burns no oil and is a single owner all highway miles. He is replacing engine cause he is taking a large road trip in july and pulling a trailer so wants a lower mile motor for the trip. I offered him a deal. I will do the engine swap for free if I can keep all unused parts. He has agreed. Now I know he is getting the better end of the deal but I work for a school district and am off work for 2 weeks for xmas break. What else is there to do? This will help my budget build quit a bit.

He sent me pics of the motor and it looks to be complete minus a exhaust manifold,pcm,and some accessories. I am excited to start. I got a GTO pan that I bought for $200 on CL with pickup,gasket and tray. I am suppose to me the guy tomorrow morning to get pan. Engine job should be dropped off tomorrow around noon.

Now I am putting this into a stock subframe with a CPP mini subframe. SO my major hurdle is going to be headers:eek:. I also will be swapping my 700R4 for a 4L60E. I need to sell my sbc that I removed this last weekend. Any suggestions on what I should list it for(complete carb to pan with headers)?

Need to start looking for ls1 intake with injectors and pigtails,motor plates and go from there:devil:

Any advise would be appreciated beside replacing the current front end setup!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,907 Posts
Ls

I would go thru the engine ...re-seal it and install a new timing chain and oil pump i have a Tahoe 2001 with a 140k and the pistons on the older engines make alot of noise till it warms up DID you hear it cold, after about 1 minute its quit as could be.

Their are allot of LS installs just ask questions you will learn real fast.

MY LS Budget build (You had to decide how far to go i just didn't want to be removing the motor for a leak or ? i have to say this adds up real fast ****$ GOOD LUCK.)

1-PVC cover update to remove all the Hoses and help with oil burn
2-Oil pump (Melling)
3-Front and rear crank seals & covers gaskets
4-Heads freshen up
5-New MLS head gaskets
6-New lifters
7-Plugs & Wires
8-Had my harness made but TechRods (Ebay)
9-Installed oil, Temp, Volt gauges
10-Fuel pump & Corvette Regulator system
11-Lokar Throttle cable to "Drive by Cable"
12-Hoses
13-Radiator (I used a LS1) if you do this you have to cut & box the frame horns due to Rad width
14-All new gaskets.
15-ARP rod bolts
16-Intake tubes and air cleaner

Stock clip



With TCI Clip i decide to clip after i did all the work ...for other reasons.



BIG LS mistake is the oil pump o-ring make sure your careful when replacing the PAN and tube.

BRP is making headers i would get everything done and see if they will be ready in a couple months when you have everything else sorted you have alot of work to keep you busy ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
snolan: thxs for the advise. I am aware of the cold start knock on theses motors. I am mot sure if most people said this was a piston skirt knock/wrist pin or a lifter noise.

Like I said I will be on a tight budget so I will do some of the gaskets but dont think I will get to much into the internal at this time. This could change though being everything else has:D. I would like to rebuild the whole motor at a later time but this build will hopefully be about getting it running as is.

I am watching BRP to see what the header situation does. Any suggestions on motor mount plates or a PDF to make them myself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
An aftermarket wiring kit and ECM is really expensive, and the ECM will need to be programmed. Add headers, fuel pump, etc., and I'm not sure this is penciling out.
My suggestion is forget about trading work for that motor & get a motor with all the wiring, ECM, stock exhaust, and maybe even the electronic shift tranny. Your best bet will be to find an intact doner car. That way you can take everything as a package deal.
You should be able to find an intact (wrecked) doner car for $1500-$3500 (which is close to what you will spend for just the wiring, ECM and Headers). After you pull what you need, sell all the other stuff and recoup some of the cost.
Also, think about the fuel delivery system... there is a reason modern cars have the fuel pump in the tank. Sure, you can run an external 65psi pump, but when you hit the gas, the pickup tube will starve for fuel. You'll also need a return line, which is easy enough, but the modern tanks are made to hold pressure utilizing a pressure cap and rated tank. You can run a vented tank, but if you do, expect a lot of fuel smell. The fuel system alone on my build was just as involved as the entire engine and tranny install.
All that being said, I would do it again... in fact I'm planning my next build as a '67 or '68 Firebird and LSx.
Good luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
175 Posts
a couple things to think about to save money.
1) carbed motor
2) stick with the 700r4

if you need to buy an intake,injectors,fuel rails,etc,you can find a used carb manifold for around $200-$250.and a used msd controller for around $250.depending on the size carb you have now,you might be able to use it as well.
you're 700r4 will bolt to the ls motor.you will need a spacer ($60) for the flexplate.and the flexplate from an ls1.
either way you will need to do a fuel pump,radiator,and headers.with either set up,if it's not already,you will want 3/8" fuel line.on a fuel injection you need to run a return line back to the fuel tank.

as mentioned above,i would do a new timing chain and oil pump.if you have enough money left i would pull the heads and have new springs and valve seals installed.you would be good for another 100,xxx miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
931 Posts
carbd ls

This is like taking 3 steps forward and 4 steps back!! Go all in:yes::yes::yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
The LS motors are coming out of the wood work . Just bought a LS1 , 5.3 , LT1 & 4.6 2v mod motor for $300 delivered . Gotta love Craigslist .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
An aftermarket wiring kit and ECM is really expensive, and the ECM will need to be programmed. Add headers, fuel pump, etc., and I'm not sure this is penciling out.
My suggestion is forget about trading work for that motor & get a motor with all the wiring, ECM, stock exhaust, and maybe even the electronic shift tranny. Your best bet will be to find an intact doner car. That way you can take everything as a package deal.
You should be able to find an intact (wrecked) doner car for $1500-$3500 (which is close to what you will spend for just the wiring, ECM and Headers). After you pull what you need, sell all the other stuff and recoup some of the cost.
Also, think about the fuel delivery system... there is a reason modern cars have the fuel pump in the tank. Sure, you can run an external 65psi pump, but when you hit the gas, the pickup tube will starve for fuel. You'll also need a return line, which is easy enough, but the modern tanks are made to hold pressure utilizing a pressure cap and rated tank. You can run a vented tank, but if you do, expect a lot of fuel smell. The fuel system alone on my build was just as involved as the entire engine and tranny install.
All that being said, I would do it again... in fact I'm planning my next build as a '67 or '68 Firebird and LSx.
Good luck!
I am doing a straight trade with my tranny guy who built the 700R4 for the 4L60E. This motor is a complete 5.3 as stated above minus ecm and accessories(meaning ps,alt,starter,ac). It has a complete harness from what I can see from the photos. I will do the wiring myself thxs to TOM's write up and search out a ecm. Fuel pump problem is solved with the corvette filter and external pump. I am not expert on this by any means but this can be do on a budget. I will post as I go and with questions.

I will have been reading a lot of threads on this topic and am still doing research but at some point you have to just say &^$# it and jump:devil:. I am sure I will get discuraged along the way but that what you guys are for:cool:

This a good deal to get a motor with harness for my labor when I am off work right now and getting vacation pay. Less cash out for a motor is savings. If I have a complete motor with harness I am saving at least $250 to $500 alone. That could go towards headers and other parts. Now I just need to sell the old setup. My CL buyer bailed out but another will come along.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
The wiring will be easy......just take your time, and go hand over hand, wire by wire......

Only thing is, you need to modify your truck harness the same as a 99-02 f-body. The write up is for that year, so if you do change the injector connectors, use a LS1 intake, etc, as previously discussed it will be no problem...you have all the wiring to do that.

In fact a 2001 f-body stock harness just sold on tech yesterday for 125 bucks....in about an hour....keep looking...but you can modify the truck harness....or sell it off.....

Since you are on a budget for the build, I'll make you a deal........

Get a year 2000 PCM from an F-body only (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am), and I'll tune it for you, just pay the shipping back and forth. I have a year model license for that year.......I'll put a hot rod tune on it and will get you on the road. Ran my car on a similar tune on the power tour......averaged 24 mpg... :D


T,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The wiring will be easy......just take your time, and go hand over hand, wire by wire......

Only thing is, you need to modify your truck harness the same as a 99-02 f-body. The write up is for that year, so if you do change the injector connectors, use a LS1 intake, etc, as previously discussed it will be no problem...you have all the wiring to do that.

In fact a 2001 f-body stock harness just sold on tech yesterday for 125 bucks....in about an hour....keep looking...but you can modify the truck harness....or sell it off.....

Since you are on a budget for the build, I'll make you a deal........

Get a year 2000 PCM from an F-body only (Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am), and I'll tune it for you, just pay the shipping back and forth. I have a year model license for that year.......I'll put a hot rod tune on it and will get you on the road. Ran my car on a similar tune on the power tour......averaged 24 mpg... :D


T,
Now this is what this website is all about NPHNP. Thank you very much Tom. I will be taking you up on this offer. I will be on the hunt for the PCM now. I am picking up GTO pan with tray and pickup for $200 this morning.

A question I had about wiring is the connection at the PCM is all the same for GM? Or will i need to change for the fbody PCM? Also I know Painless sells a 24"extention for the coil packs but cant you splice in you own from another harness and give your self a little longer extension.


Thxs for help guys
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
Now this is what this website is all about NPHNP. Thank you very much Tom. I will be taking you up on this offer. I will be on the hunt for the PCM now. I am picking up GTO pan with tray and pickup for $200 this morning.

A question I had about wiring is the connection at the PCM is all the same for GM? Or will i need to change for the fbody PCM? Also I know Painless sells a 24"extention for the coil packs but cant you splice in you own from another harness and give your self a little longer extension.


Thxs for help guys
Yes and No, the PCM connector colors change after 2002, you will need red and blue, not red and green....it can be done, but it is best to stay with the correct color connectors. They will all plug in, but the pinouts are different. You are basically going to take a truck harness, (if you decide to use one) and turn it into a car harness.....or you can find a car harness, and just lengthen it.

You will need to pin it for the F-body, just use the diagrams I posted on my wiring thread, print them in color, and tape them all together to read across left to right in one big diagram. It will be much easier than flipping page to page.

Don't waste your money on the extensions, just lengthen the existing wires to suit your mounting location for the PCM. Get a plan together for PCM location, and then go from there for each wire, I made mine about 6 feet long, to each under my drivers seat.....


You can reuse the wires you remove for all the emission BS, when lengthening the loom. I reused the pin end that went into the pcm connector, and spliced any color wire in the middle, doen't matter on color, but try to keep it the same color on both ends for troubleshooting...I happened to have a cut up harness I got for 40 bucks, and just butchered it up for the wiring.....

BTW, there is a vendor on ebay caled "spareecm". He has any year you want, already tuned for about 130 bucks, or stock for around 100 or less, just be sure its a year 2K, if you decide to get one from him....

T,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well the plot thickens a bit. Got the Yukon and motor for the swap today. The harness is chopped so I will be searching for a harness. I got to drive the yukon with my future motor and it runs very strong. Didnt even have the cold start knock/tick. So I am officially all in:devil: No turning back now. I wasnt gonna consider it all in until I had the motor.

Updates to follow. If anyone comes across a harness and pcm or either or shoot me a pm. I will watch both sites as much as possible. So if I understand correctly a truck harness pre 03 will work if I can save a lot of $ compared to a fbody harness?

My budy is going to search through his pile of stuff at his moms place he thinks he has a ls1 intake there somewhere. We will see?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
175 Posts
since i have a carb,i could sell you all my fuel injections stuff that you need.
i have a ls1 vette manifold.the vette one doesn't have the egr hole in then like the f-body does.i also have the f-body cable style throttle body,fuel rail,injectors,and probably the injector harness.
pm me if you're interested.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,561 Posts
A few things I wanted to mention.......

Get yourself a good inch pound torque wrench and the torque specs. Link posted below to torques specs. You can twist these bolts off very easily, as you are mostly going to be working with aluminum. Also, get some never seize, and use it on ALL bolts, even the headers......you might get the bolt in, but if you have to take it out, it can gall the threads. If the torque specs say to torque in increments, do that, especially on the intake......and use new intake gaskets, they are cheap.....

Keep us posted on the build.... :yes:


http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1


T,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thxs for the heads up Tom.

Pm sent

I have a inch pounds torque wrench and FT pounds torque wrench. I will fore sure us antiseize when I get to that point. Stangsforsale has not gotten back to me on his bracket he sell and other parts so any suggestions on brakets?

Thx


Motor is almost out of Yukon. I need to get some bolts to mount to stand. Hopefully I will have it out today. Only work on it for 2.5 hours before dark. If anyone needs a 5.3 parts that I will not be using shoot me a PM.
 
1 - 20 of 123 Posts
Top