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This may be a candidate for a "sticky" for others to peruse???
Many people have asked, so I thought a separate thread of what I did, and then maybe others can jump in and add what they did!! My 66 2dr post... I bought front lowering coil springs (Bob..rhduarte's idea) from Classic Performance http://www.classicperform.com/product-pages/nova/Front-coil-springs.htm It actually lowered the front closer to 2 inches. I am running 195x70r14 BFG's on 14 x 6 inch rims with 3&3/4in BS (79 Chevelle I think) I had the rear stock mono leafs de-arched 1&1/2 in and have 245x60R14 BFG's on 14x7 inch rims with 4&3/4 in BS (66 Chevelle wagon) I had the bodyshop shave off app 1/4 inch from the wheelwells, to where the inner fenders attatch! Lotsa room. I have 21 inches from the ground to the top of the wheelwell. Fly-Boy....... the Slide-a-Links do not lower the car any further?? Were you just confused?? I have to say one thing though, and I hope it is clear enough...... you know for guys like Poopy & the Newbies!! :D
If you lay a rear leaf on the floor and measure from the center of the front to rear eyes..... you will get X inches !!..... now, de-arch the spring and remeasure....... you will get X-Plus inches. So, where do the rear shackles go........ ?? rearward, right? So if you de-arch too much, the rear spring will be bangin like hell on the rear subframe, to the point of ... you'll think your car is falling apart!! How do I know this, you ask.. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: .. Lets just say I had to do a little touch-up on the underside paint job!! ;)
That's all I did... not rocket science, but John..(aka the Fly) it sounds to me that if you really want to go that low...... air bags are the only avenue for you....... unless someone else has another idea?? Isn't that what makes this such a great site?? Hope I didn't miss anything!

Good Luck.. Bogie
 

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Thanks for the thread Bogie, from what i understood, by removing the rear shackles and going with the slide-a-links, i'd gain the drop of the differences in height/length of the 2. i'm looking for a very stiff ride... not like it's solid... but VERY firm. the bags ??? out of the question. i don't want to even think of bagging the Flyer. i just came home from the shop, and i'll have my baby home on the 1st. the first step i want to accomplish when i get it home is the rear end work... so as the weeks go by... i'll really find out what i'm going to have to do to achieve the ride height i require... i really appreciate the time you took to address this for me, i'll keep you posted as to the results of my endeavor.


thanks Bogie.... :D


FLY-BOY :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
John....... I sent you an e-mail with a pic of the slide-a-links!! I don't know how you think you can eliminate the rear shackles as they are required to anchor the mono leaf springs???
Ric
 

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Bogie !!! give me a few minutes... i'm thinking my terminology is off. lemme get the shot of what i'm referring to and get it for you. the shot you sent me is of a set of Cal-Tracs or a similar brand of traction devices. i'm talking about the slider units that mount the rear of the leaf eye... gimme a few and i'll either post here or i'll shoot ya a shot to your E-Mail, OK ??


Thanks again Ric !!
 

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I thought this was a slide-a-link, a traction bar by Competition Engineering.
 

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Mike, i'm looking for the shot of the rear sliders that the rear leaf eye goes into. the unit replaces the rear shackles and allows the spring to slide instead of arc during differential movement. i thought by utilizing the "sliders" i'd gain approximately 2" of drop. i need to find the thread which addressed this issue.

in fact, i'm thinking you contributed to the thread, which stated something about using dodge (?) springs.... they're made by Landrum ? and another company...

i'm looking.
 

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Mike Goble said:


I thought this was a slide-a-link, a traction bar by Competition Engineering.
Yep, at least that's what what I put on my car. I think it's getting confused with "sliders" which do fit on the back. (if that's what they're called).


Dan (sliding right along) ;)
 

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AFCO makes leaf spring sliders. They are made for Mopar springs with the small rear eye. I used Mopar SS springs from Mancini Racing.
 

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heheheh no offense towards baggin' it... my Flyer is gonna be a racer so to speak, the bags just don't fit with the way i plan on using the car...


9000000000000000000000000000000000 MPH !!!
 

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lower?

I don't see where sliders will lower the car. The spring will still have the same rate as with the shackles. How about a couple lowering blocks between the axel tube and spring? you can go as low as you want and the shocks, springs and things will still do what they're supposed to do with no mods. Dave
 

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65 Post said:
I don't see where sliders will lower the car. The spring will still have the same rate as with the shackles. How about a couple lowering blocks between the axel tube and spring? you can go as low as you want and the shocks, springs and things will still do what they're supposed to do with no mods. Dave
I've seen these lowering blocks on tri-fives and I'd lean that way myself. I don't see where the spring/shock mount relationship would be any different than the original design. With machine shop access, you could make these in no time at all. If not, Classic Industries or TCI must sell them.
 

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65 Post said:
I don't see where sliders will lower the car. The spring will still have the same rate as with the shackles.
The sliders are MUCH shorter than the shackles they replace. From the pics, it looks like the rear spring eye is about 1" from the frame rail with sliders. When using shackles it's more like 3-4" inches.

Without the shackle acting as a spacer between the spring and the frame rail, the car is going to sit lower.
 

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I have the same thought process as Fast65. Just using lowering blocks. Anything wrong with this? I figure with the blocks you still have the same amount of sping tension, so you are not banging around, nor a overly stiff ride.
As for the front, Im leaning toward lowering springs. But have not ruled out just whacking a coil off. 1 coil equals 2 inches right.


Bogus Thanks for this thread. Its been something Ive been thinking about alot.
 

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sixtyII said:
I have the same thought process as Fast65. Just using lowering blocks. Anything wrong with this? I figure with the blocks you still have the same amount of sping tension, so you are not banging around, nor a overly stiff ride.
As for the front, Im leaning toward lowering springs. But have not ruled out just whacking a coil off. 1 coil equals 2 inches right.


Bogus Thanks for this thread. Its been something Ive been thinking about alot.
From my experience, 1 coil cut does not always equal 2 inch drop. We recently cut 1/2 coil on a 2000 S-10 and it dropped 2 inches. The safest way - not necessarily the easiest is to cut 1/2 coil - reassemble everything, then check ride height. Cut 1/2 again if need be. But remember, do to spring rates, if the first 1/2 cut drops the front 1 inch, that does not mean the second 1/2 coil cut will drop the front the same amount. That is why I think it is safer to cut a little at a time verses 1 big cut.
 

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I would stray from the lowering blocks. I don't know how they perform in a car, but everyone i know who has put them on a truck has had problems.....
 
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