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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
It's still a mess but we're making forward progress. The switch panel is mounted, carpet is back in, shifter is back in, wire loom from the switch panel to the rear of the car is in, and I've cleaned up some of the wiring under the dash. Next up is wiring everything forward of the switch panel. I'm doing my best to make the looms nice and neat but I only took one pic this weekend.

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
A lot of progress on the wiring this weekend. I didn't realize how much wiring there was to do until I really got into it. I believe everything but the turn signals should work now without turning the key on. Hopefully I kept it all straight because now that it's loomed up it would be a nightmare to redo.

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My dad also got our steering wheel quick release installed Sunday along with re-using the Grant spacer.

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We still have to wire the fuel pump and relays in the trunk and all of the under hood stuff. Hopefully our relays come in this week and we can button up the back end. once the engine is in and the front clip is back on we'll finish up the front end. Hopefully I remember where all those wires go.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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@xxdabroxx I think your build is probably my favorite, although I have to admit I prefer the Nova grill over yours. I love seeing the updates, probably because your car is closest to what I wish mine was! What transmission are you running in that beast?
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Thanks! The Old's grill has grown on me over the years, definitely different.

We've got a 1.76 first gear TCI powerglide with transbrake and a turbo spline input shaft to go in it when the time comes. I'm hoping it will be up to what we put it through. Still need to figure out who to use for the torque converter though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Guess who can sit strapped in their car making race car noises. This guy!

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Rear seat is back in, harness bar and harnesses as well as the seats, kick panels and thresholds. Amazing how much hardware is in the seats and harnesses.

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LOVE IT!! I remember when my two oldest sons were little, I had a Simpson youth car seat for each and they would make racecar sounds sitting in the car... My middle son yelled SPEEDER, DA DA, SPEEDER!!! Strapped in my e36 Bimmer... Straightpiped. I can't wait to see you pull your first 60 ft in it!!! Thanks for the update and the pics!!! Looking closer and closer every update! (That's the plan, right?!? :p )
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Today felt like quite the milestone. It's been a long time coming, we mocked a lot of this stuff up a while ago but left it out to work on the wiring.

It's the first time we've had the seats bolted in place. The quick release for the steering wheel is going to be sweet. The shifter feels like it's in a better spot now that we've raised it and lowered the seating position. The switch panel is also in a good spot. It's nice to be able to reach all the controls while strapped into the harnesses. It's tough to reach the dash even with my long arms when the shoulder straps are cinched down as tight as they should be.

The machine shop is finally starting to work on our block so we're trying to get the car ready to mock up the block and trans to measure for a driveshaft to get that ordered while we're building the engine.

We've got Calvert lowering blocks coming along with some CE U-bolts. (can a car ever really be low enough?) Also have a little bit of -12 PTFE braided hose and fittings to use for the suction side of the fuel system. The next steps are on their way. Maybe if we're lucky we'll get to the track in Nov.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Well, progress didn't go quite as planned this weekend. I ordered the wrong lowering blocks from summit so those are going back and the correct ones are already on their way. I got the wheels off along with the old u-bolts so I'm ready when they get here. I also finished gutting the parking brake cable from the car while I had the wheels off.

Then we moved onto a little bit of plumbing. Pulled the fuel cell and opened up the hole for the -12 bung that feeds the fuel pump and made up the line. (-12 is freaking huge hose btw.)

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Then I went looking for something else to work on and removed the brackets from the old rear bumper. We'll likely poke some speed holes in them before bolting them up to the new bumper. I also still need to order some bumper bolts.

That's all for now, hopefully I'll get the lowering blocks in tomorrow and maybe get that put together this week since we have some nice weather coming.
 

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Well, progress didn't go quite as planned this weekend. I ordered the wrong lowering blocks from summit so those are going back and the correct ones are already on their way. I got the wheels off along with the old u-bolts so I'm ready when they get here. I also finished gutting the parking brake cable from the car while I had the wheels off.

Then we moved onto a little bit of plumbing. Pulled the fuel cell and opened up the hole for the -12 bung that feeds the fuel pump and made up the line. (-12 is freaking huge hose btw.)

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Then I went looking for something else to work on and removed the brackets from the old rear bumper. We'll likely poke some speed holes in them before bolting them up to the new bumper. I also still need to order some bumper bolts.

That's all for now, hopefully I'll get the lowering blocks in tomorrow and maybe get that put together this week since we have some nice weather coming.
And I thought my -10 fuel lines were big! DAMN!!! @xxdabroxx looking at your sliders, I have a pair I'm getting ready to weld in and wondered how you went about locating the centerline of yours for the rear spring eye... I was just going to get my suspension set up, bolt in the rear eye to a slider and set it on the rear frame rail, loading the suspension with the vehicle weight then mount it with the eye in the center of the slider opening (open bearing surface). How did you measure your slider location? Or did you just set the center of the slider immediately below the stock shackle bolt location?
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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
And I thought my -10 fuel lines were big! DAMN!!! @xxdabroxx looking at your sliders, I have a pair I'm getting ready to weld in and wondered how you went about locating the centerline of yours for the rear spring eye... I was just going to get my suspension set up, bolt in the rear eye to a slider and set it on the rear frame rail, loading the suspension with the vehicle weight then mount it with the eye in the center of the slider opening (open bearing surface). How did you measure your slider location? Or did you just set the center of the slider immediately below the stock shackle bolt location?
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Honestly it involved a fair bit of guesswork. First thing we did was get the new springs installed and loosely bolted to the slider and front hanger. Then we lifted the spring so the slider contacted the frame and slid the slider all the way rearward as we thought that was close to full droop. We tacked them up but later found we needed to move them forward some after hanging the diff in place. So from the least amount of pressure possible lifting on the bottom of the spring to hold the slider against the frame we moved them forward about 1" (IIRC).

After we got the diff hanging on the springs it showed that the springs wanted to droop more. With the weight of the car on the springs they rest at about 2/3 - 3/4 of the way back allowing the most droop possible. We only have a couple inches of compression available so we'll bottom out the shock first (which has a rubber bump stop installed on the shaft) and allow maximum down travel for rear separation/ traction.


We'll have a -10 supply to the regulator and a -8 from the regulator to the carb. The 12 is just the sump line. Also have a -8 bypass at the pump returning to the fuel cell. All PTFE hose.
 

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Yeah, that's about how I envisioned my fitting and install, with full drivetrain, driver weight and full interior installed for correct total sprung weight on the spring, jounced a few times on the tire then locating. Thanks @xxdabroxx ! Looks like progress is being made, regardless of how seemingly small... progress is progress. Better than welding them in fully to only find out they're totally wrong... UGH. BEen there a couple times... Just curious, did you simulate a full cell of fuel and engine/trans/shifter and all the usual weight for preload? I am a stickler for the details of how things are done and I just want to only do it once... y'know?!? :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Yeah, that's about how I envisioned my fitting and install, with full drivetrain, driver weight and full interior installed for correct total sprung weight on the spring, jounced a few times on the tire then locating. Thanks @xxdabroxx ! Looks like progress is being made, regardless of how seemingly small... progress is progress. Better than welding them in fully to only find out they're totally wrong... UGH. BEen there a couple times... Just curious, did you simulate a full cell of fuel and engine/trans/shifter and all the usual weight for preload? I am a stickler for the details of how things are done and I just want to only do it once... y'know?!? :p
We really weren't able to simulate it very well. The trunk was full of parts though. I hope it settles a little with the drivetrain but not too much as it will cut into our up travel. It looked a little high in the back though so we're going down 1" with the calvert lowering blocks but that won't change our shock travel as it's only moving the axle up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
And you can always cut half the bump-stop off the frame at the arch at the axle tube. Should give you another 1/2" to 3/4" squat... unless you already did.. LOL.. OY!
Long gone, those are aftermarket frame rails that are moved inboard. If it squats too much we'll have to get creative with shock mounting points. Below picture is full droop and I think I have just over 2" of up travel at ride height.

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I totally forgot that part... Yeah, gonna be a bit tough to get more... Unless you boxed the pan and added an extension to the shock mount location above there at the crossbar. 1/4" plate with an offset would work... Could even make them adjustable up or down...
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Today ontrac dropped off my return line fittings and hose along with the correct lowering blocks, bumper and the 3/8” guide plates for the heads. Kind of an odd combo but I needed to hit that free shipping (twice, my dumbass forgot the bumper bolts the first time). My dad has also been making progress on a fuse and relay panel for the trunk. (I didn’t take any pictures though)

I don’t think I’m completely happy with the 120 deg fitting at the fuel pump return but I think it will work. I’m really not sure what fitting would work best but I’m thinking 135 or greater would be best. I think there is going to be plenty of clearance between the diff and the hose, it’s just not looking quite as tidy as I’d like. We’ll see what it really looks like when it’s assembled though. Those -8 fittings really make the -12 look big though, I’ll get you guys some pics this weekend or the next time I’m down there working on the car.
 
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