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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Finally going to try and make some more progress on the car this weekend. All the rear end parts are in so we're going to get it put together and put the wheels on. Then we can measure for tires. I know we don't need more tire but we'd like to try and fit a 14.50 under the car if we have the room, otherwise we'll go back with 13.50's again. There isn't much width difference between the two based on Hoosiers chart.

After that, maybe we'll start pulling some of the interior apart to start mocking up the seats and get our smith racecraft gas pedal installed. We're also going to raise the shifter up with a spacer my dad made so we have a little bit of work to do rerouting the cable and likely raising the ignition box and fan. We also need to move the harness bar after we get the seats in their final location. I think we're going to weld it in permanently rather have it removable like it is now. It isn't likely that anyone will be riding in the back with the racing seats in the way.

Pro systems finally billed me so our carb should be coming in soon. We went with a brand new unit rather than have ours rebuilt. I've also ordered our timing chain and cover so we have a couple less engine parts on the wishlist. The Cloyes cover could use a little polishing so that's on the to do list as well.

We've decided to go with a belt driven fuel pump. That'll help keep the electrical system nice and simple and if the car is ever in an accident the fuel pump will die with the engine. We're looking at a BLP pump, they seem to make a nice looking kit. Not 100% sure if we're going to go internal bypass or external yet. The internal bypass seems like it would be nice as we can skip an external regulator for now and we can always convert it to an external bypass later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Like almost all things in hotrodding the third member install didn't go quite as easily as expected. Turns out the drag ring gear was about 9.25" O.D. and that was just big enough to not fit in the housing. After trying a couple different angles we decided it was time to get out the grinder. I notched the top and bottom of the lip where the ring gear goes and after a ton of metal junk cleanup the diff went right in.

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We got the axles in along with new seals and then proceeded to struggle with the aluminum lug nuts for a while. They're a really tight fit, which is good but also a PITA. The car is back on it's feet again and it looks like the 14.50's will fit.

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This baby looks like it's going to be a good time haha cool thread and good job you guys are cruising through it!

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY ALL! We didn’t do much on the car this weekend but we did get a good start on our Smith Racecraft race gas pedal instal. We won’t poke the hole in the firewall until we get the engine in but the hard part is done. We also found that we’re going to have to re-route some wires for the ignition and shifter because the pedal hits them right at the firewall penetration.

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
We worked on getting the seats mounted this weekend. Made good progress, got both seats mounted to the floor. The previous harness bar location is going to work on nicely, we just need to get some tabs cut off of it and new ones welded on for seatbelts. after we were done messing with the seats we modified the brake pedal to get it a little closer to the floor as it was crazy high for some reason. I have a feeling it had something to do with using a power brake pushrod with manual brakes but I'm not sure.

My dad also got the new tires mounted up a week or so ago so it's sitting on 29x14.50's now. They fit pretty nice, I'm hoping the back end sits down a bit more after we get the engine and trans in but it's likely going to need a lowering block.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
@xxdabroxx Great build thread so far!! Totally awesome Omega! How's it coming along these days? Noticed these and thought I'd take a look. Glad I did!!... Following this thread!!
Like everything in life it seems to move slower than I'd like but it sounds like the machine shop is going to get started on my block soon. Still waiting on the carb from Pro Systems. Got the Comp magnum rockers in so most of the engine hard parts are acquired less the pushrods and guide plates.

Looks like we'll still need a couple lowering blocks to get the rear end down where we like it and new u-bolts to match.

My dad ordered seatbelts though so we should be rounding the corner on the interior soon. We're both working overtime this weekend though so we probably won't make much progress this week.
 

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@xxdabroxx how did you mount your seats? Just curious (pics?!?). Factory holes and revised brackets or all new locations? Getting ready to weld in some new L/R full pans in my '70 and not sure about my seats and mounting them. I'm probably going to use 1/8" plate for the mounts from beneath the car welded into the new pan metal... just like the 8-point square mounts except those will be on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I bought the kirkey seat brackets both for the bottom and the back but all of the mounting holes are new. It was a little tricky but it involved some wood blocks, some clamping, sharpy marks, a cut off silver pencil and some bravery when it came to poking the first holes in the brand new aluminum seats. I'll try and snag some more pics if I remember.

There are (4) 5/16" bolts through the floor on each seat bracket though so they aren't going anywhere. The outboard brackets are right up against the boxed part of the floor (torque box ?) so that just barely worked out. A couple of the bolts hit doubled sections of metal where supports are under the floor and a couple go through one of those doubled sections. The rear of the seats will mount to the harness bar on the roll bar with a kirkey bracket and bolts.

We thought about adding some steel straps to the floor but I really don't think it's necessary after seeing how where the bolts fell. We will end up using some heavy washers under the car though to help spread the load. We'll also add (2) more bolts through the seat on each side bracket and those will get replaced with 3/4" long bolts as the 1" ones are a little long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
@xxdabroxx how did you mount your seats? Just curious (pics?!?). Factory holes and revised brackets or all new locations? Getting ready to weld in some new L/R full pans in my '70 and not sure about my seats and mounting them. I'm probably going to use 1/8" plate for the mounts from beneath the car welded into the new pan metal... just like the 8-point square mounts except those will be on the inside.
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I called BLP today and had a nice chat with them. One of those rare occurrences where the person selling a product recommends you go with another product for your application. They said their belt drive fuel pumps don't do well pulling all the way from the rear of the car and likely would need a front mounted fuel cell to function properly. He said he has a 1000hp blower car running their pump with a rear mounted cell and a small electric pump filling a 2 gallon fuel cell in the front of the car. He said that their pump may work for our application but it would really suck to buy the setup and have it not work.

So it looks like we are headed towards an electric pump instead. Looking at a Magnafuel 500 with integrated filter and bypass along with a dead head regulator up front. Should come out slightly cheaper although it adds some complexity to the car overall with the wiring involved.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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I called BLP today and had a nice chat with them. One of those rare occurrences where the person selling a product recommends you go with another product for your application.
I think that when this happens it really shows the integrity of the company. There are plenty of companies out there that will be more than happy to sell you something that isn't what you need, isn't what you want and will not work for you. When the item fails to meet the requirement and you call to complain, the problem lands squarely back with you. What's that saying? Caveat Emptor? The principle that the buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made.
 
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