Chevy Nova Forum banner
41 - 60 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Something new this weekend. Rust repair. We decided to replace the lower section of the passenger quarter panel that had a couple rust holes. It seems like this quarter has been replaced in the past at some point, there was a fair bit of bondo on it and a nova marker light hole is patched on this side but does not exist on the driver side. All in all it came out OK, it will take a bit of bondo to smooth out but we'll work on that in the coming days/ weeks.

Found 2 live 12ga shotgun shells (glad I didn't hit them with the cut off wheel) a couple of darts, a socket and a lot of rust and dirt.

416481


416482


416483


416484


416485
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I forgot to mention, when I was at the machine shop last week checking on the engine progress the owner told me he found someone to sell my old rotating assembly to. Apparently it's going back in an Olds Omega with a small block chevy. I didn't know there where two omega's in town, I'll have to try and get in touch with him somehow. I thought it was a crazy coincidence that my same rotating assembly was going in another olds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Doesn't seem like we got a lot done this weekend but we brought the front wheels back to life and got the new tires mounted up. We also made some more progress on the patch panel in the back but I didn't take in pictures of it.

416867
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Progress on the car has slowed a bit but it hasn't stopped. I don't have any great progress pictures but we go longer wheel studs for the front wheels. So we had to take the rotors back off and press them in. In the rear we've pulled the axles and center section. Once we started measuring we decided against running our current third member and my dad ordered a new aluminum through bolt Yukon center section with 4.56 gears, spool, and matching 35 spline axles from quick performance. It will probably be another 4 weeks or so before we get them though.

I've since ordered a pair of 17" Kirkey racing seats and brackets but they seem to be a few weeks out as well.

I've also got a quart of high temp cerakote to paint the headers with after we get the O2 bungs welded in. Soon coming we'll blast the headers, weld in the bungs, and spray them with the cerakote. I tested one of the samples I ordered with a propane torch and it seems to hold up really well to high heat. I'm excited to be done with the header wraps for good. I've been cut countless times on the clamps while changing spark plugs.

In other news I went to Famoso raceway this weekend for the day. We watched our friends race and can't wait to get back out there ourselves.

418423


418424


418425


418426
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
This weekend's project was restoring our headers. I ordered Glacier Titanium Cerakote to paint the headers with, take my word for it 1 quart is way more than you need. I think we'll have enough left over to do the entire exhaust once we get it built.

Started off the morning with some sandblasting. Play sand works ok but it takes forever with a small sandblaster like this. It also really gave my dad's air compressor a workout but it survived the weekend.

418776


418777


418778


418779


418780


Towards the end of the blasting session we were running out of sand so we emptied the old blast cabinet out into a bucket. It had 100 grit aluminum oxide from cerakoting guns in the past. This made for a much better surface finish but it wasn't as aggressive at removing what paint was still on the headers. It was great at rust though.

418781


My dad hosed down the headers with acetone out of the old suction spray gun. We were afraid to wipe them down with anything and get them full of lint.

418782


And DONE! Overall the Cerakote sprayed really nice. It flashes off super quick so you don't have to worry about runs. After about a half hour I went back and put a second light coat on them focusing on the show sides. I think a lighter coat has a nicer surface finish once dry. The metallic doesn't look right when you lay it on too thick.

418783


418784


I'm super happy with how it came out, they look like brand new headers. This was the easiest Cerakote I've used too as there was no hardener to mix, no oven cure, and no reducing necessary. It cleaned up really well with acetone too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,054 Posts
those headers look fantastic--great work and great info.

BTW, the wheels on that Chevelle look awesome.

anyway, keep up the great work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
those headers look fantastic--great work and great info.

BTW, the wheels on that Chevelle look awesome.

anyway, keep up the great work!
Thanks, I was REALLY happy with how well they cleaned up.

Stacy (red racing jacket) the owner/ driver of the chevelle spent some serious coin on those wheels and they are killer. She’s a hell of a driver too, she’s got a Wally. I can only dream of winning a Wally. Her husband Scott has offered to let me drive his supercomp dragster. It runs 7’s at 170 something. I need to get a driving suit then I’d like to take him up on the offer to get my license. It would be pretty awesome to drive something that traps over 170 in the quarter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Made a little more progress on the car this weekend and found a bit of a mess under the fuel cell.

First thing we got the double adjustable QA1 shocks installed on the rear. Other than tires this buttons up the rear end purchases for a while. After we get the motor and trans in we'll still have to order a driveshaft though.

419102


In preparation for running E85 we pulled the fuel cell to remove the foam, replace the terrible cap, and install some new fittings. When we pulled it out we found that the trunk had a leak at some point and the fuel cell recess had filled with water and made a rusty mess. My dad sprayed some rust converter on it after we scraped it out and I went to work cleaning up the cell. Overall it cleaned up pretty well and is a little lighter that it was originally. I also poked a few holes in the bottom to let any future water drain out. Yesterday he put a coat of bed liner in the recess to finish up the rehab.

419103


419104


419105


The easy tasks always seem to snowball in one way or another.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Keep the progress coming, slow and steady wins the race! The header restore job you guys did looks great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Keep the progress coming, slow and steady wins the race! The header restore job you guys did looks great.
Will do. This has definitely snowballed from getting the car back on the road to practically a complete rebuild. Making more power meant upgrading everything to hold the power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Are you supposed to bake that paint on the headers?
No. The glacier series doesn't need to be baked. It also looks a lot more silver when it isn't hung under the tree. It takes 24 hours for a partial cure and is supposed to be fully cured in something like 5 days. It flashed off super fast unless you spray it too heavy (which I did in a couple spots). The HVLP gravity feed jamb gun worked great for the headers.

The Cerakote firearm coatings I've used in the past had both a catalyst and needed to be baked. This stuff did smell much more gnarly than I remember the other kinds smelling though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
If it's not too much trouble, could you fill me in on your rear shocks, and the fabricated crossmember you mounted the upper eyes too? I'm curious what length shock you went with; specifically how much rear rise you'll get with your current setup. It appears that most people try to aim for 2-3" of rise from a settled ride height, and then 5-6" of of compression, but that's not exactly a law of sciences either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
If it's not too much trouble, could you fill me in on your rear shocks, and the fabricated crossmember you mounted the upper eyes too? I'm curious what length shock you went with; specifically how much rear rise you'll get with your current setup. It appears that most people try to aim for 2-3" of rise from a settled ride height, and then 5-6" of of compression, but that's not exactly a law of sciences either.
419595


I didn't see your question until my dad mentioned it. It's just a leftover piece of DOM from the roll bar that my dad welded between the frame rails. It was drilled and sleeved for the 1/2" bolts. Our car does have aftermarket frame rails so if you wanted to do the same you'd probably want to plate the connection to the stock frame. The brace you see to the trunk floor was to stop the floor from vibrating due to the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
After about a month wait my seats and covers finally came in. I certainly wouldn't want to put them in a 4x4 but they are pretty comfortable for what they are.

419771


We also finalized the quarter window stickers.

419772


And I got some good news from the machine shop last week that the pistons are in and he should be getting started on the machine work in a week or two.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
266 Posts
@xxdabroxx great build thread. I see at least a couple of similarities with what I'm doing on my 72. Enjoy that time with your pops, I miss mine every day and especially when I'm out wrenching by myself I find myself wondering what it would be like if he were around to help.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
266 Posts
I’m not super fond of cats but if there’s another cat that drags in desirable car parts, I could be persuaded to become a cat lover.
 
41 - 60 of 73 Posts
Top