[CaveCityNova]

Anyone running a Ron's F/T on their SBC Nova. We are looking to switch from gas to alcohol and would like to hear how other users like this product.

 

[JDL]

I have one but have not put it on yet. A Friend had one on his 68 Camaro and run 6.20s in the 1/8th with with a best of 6.8. he is going to help set it up. Once you get it set up they grate and are very consistent.

 

[CaveCityNova]

That is what we are hoping for, we bought a 434 that we may install one on over the winter. Plan to stay with the 408 the rest of this season. Our local track owner has a Ron's F/T that he wants to sell, he has yet to price it to us. Hope it is within our budget.

 

[71 Chevy]

how much does it cost?

you can do ELECTRICAL fuel injection and put a throttle body on there that will far outflow the rons. there are TBs that flow 2400cfms now.

here is a 2000cfm one
http://www.holley.com/112-538.asp

 

[1bad2]

I've run one for a couple years. Won a few races with it.
If you are buying a used one you need to contact James Monroe http://www.killerrons.com/
and tell him your combination. He will steer you in the right direction as far as what nozzle jets and return pills you will be needing. He will help you regardless if you buy anything from him or not. Very nice guy.
On another note, I bought mine used for $900 a few years ago and sent it to Rons for a checkup. They basicly replaced everything that is replacable on it and charged me over $600. I could have bought a new one at that time for $1250. Don't deal with Ron's directly! I bought a set of nozzle jets from them last year, about the size of the clicker on a ballpoint pen. You could hold 100 of them in your hand. They charged me about $50 for them and $20 shipping.
If I had a redo, I would've bought an Enderle. Just My Opinion.
If I can be of help PM me.

 

[CaveCityNova]

Thanks for the info David, the Enderle is also on our short list.

 

[65 Post]

If this is a street car, go with an alky carb. If it's a race car, I'd go with an Enderle injector. They're both port injected, and the Enderle looks kickass. Besides, if you run either injector, the fuel tank should be mounted in the front. Just my .02. Dave

 

[67 church]

Very consistant and snappy, if you plan to use a throttle stop down the road you will have problems with this particular set up.

 

[tbills66]

I would look into the engler set up also.

 

[66nogo2]

If you want your car to start quickly then you will hate anything from Ron's. Dont buy it if you want to still have fun at the track. We used one for along time but only because the car owner does not give up easy.

 

[65 Post]

I run an injector on my dragster and hooked up a priming system with a Holley blue pump that was lieing around. Starts right up with no problem. Dave

 

[Earl]

Here is a pic of my Enderle set up. It took me awhile to get it figured out -- it works great now. Instant throttle response - motor stays cool - plugs run all year - I haven't changed the pill all year. My wideband AFR says I am dead on the fuel (5.4 to 1), and it changes very little with weather changes.
The Enderle folks are great to deal with.

I would be hard pressed to go back to a carb and gas.

 

[CaveCityNova]

I was wondering where a person would mount a fuel tank. I guess with your system air flow through the radiator would not be a problem. I have heard some say it is harder to make heat than get rid of it.
Maybe by next year we can make some changes. Now if it would only look as good as what you have.

 

[Little Red Wagon!]

Man after reading this post(which very interesting by the way)it's got me thinking about "What if?". HMMMMMM

 

[CaveCityNova]

If anyone is running an Enderle system on a 66 Nova I would really like to see some pics. We still have stock front clip w/shock towers and stock steering linkage (yeah it needs to go) so not much room for a fuel tank up front.

 

[67 church]

During my research for the alcohol system I was looking at the toilet set up.............I have a tank in the rear and did not want to make a small cell in the front. The belt driven pumps would not pull the alcohol from the rear. I ended up with a "Race Pump", it bolts to the stock location and runs off of the cam just like a factory pump. It feeds my alcohol carburated engine very nicely and the plus is that I do not have to change pumps to run race gas. I drain the alcohol at the end of the season and put a few gallons of gas in the cell and start it on gas. The pump is compatible with alcohol and gas. I ended up with an APD 1000 cfm carburator...........very nice.

.............hard to get the heat into the engine, I agree with the alcohol I do not run the fans hardly ever!

 

[66nogo2]

Another excellent choice for a methanol carb would be Jim Evans from Rolla Missouri or if your at Lyons this weekend look him up they are running in that quick series.

 

[Earl]

I was wondering where a person would mount a fuel tank. I guess with your system air flow through the radiator would not be a problem. I have heard some say it is harder to make heat than get rid of it.
Maybe by next year we can make some changes. Now if it would only look as good as what you have.

The front mounted tank has not caused any heating problems from the blocking air from the radiator. In fact I have blocked off the grille too - with no problems. Water temp of 170 to 180 when I get back to the pits.
I have seen a couple cars with a rear mounted tank and a small (2 gal) cell mounted in the front. The small front cell had a Holley float bowl mounted to the side of it. The driver fills the front cell with an elec pump, from the rear cell, just before his run. The float bowl will shut off the fuel when it is full. This way you can mount the small cell above the belt driven pump - no fuel draw problems this way.
I did a search to try to find a cell with the float bowl on it, with no luck.
I am assuming the guy mounted the bowl himself.
As far as making heat - it is pretty easy with the fuel shut off. The shut off actually diverts fuel back to the tank to shut the motor off. If you slowly move the valve the motor will lean out. I can get the motor to 200 deg. with this simple method.
I always heat the motor to 200+ when I shut it off for the last time after the race. I have had NO corrosion - rust problems since I started doing this.

 

[CaveCityNova]

Earl Thanks for all the lil info bites I will try to remember these if we ever get our Endurle system.