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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a new Lokar throttle cable. Installed it. all looks good, no binds etc,,, but,, when put pedal all the way to the floor, the butterflys are not all the way open, at the carb, I can take my hand and open it up a little more, there is about 3/8 in movement left to open it. If I try to pull cable bracket back anymore, it opens my betterflies and high idles,Top photo is closed, bottom, is pedal on the floor. Thanks for your help.
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p202/thetpro1/
Tony


 

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Good luck with this one. I fought about 3 or 4 years with mine and it was almost always a problem. You could try lighter springs on the return side. There is too much stretch in the line and too much flex in the bracket under the floor, if you have the one that you had to cut the floor out and it includes the pedal.

I went to a mechanical linkage a month or so ago after playing games with it this year when I changed my intake. The car is so much crisper with the mechanical rod linkage. It snaps like a pro stock when I blip the throttle because there is no slow wasted movement of the cable. Mess with it for a while but if you ever put a nitrous micro switch under the throttle linkage then your hair will turn grey trying to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Good luck with this one. I fought about 3 or 4 years with mine and it was almost always a problem. You could try lighter springs on the return side. There is too much stretch in the line and too much flex in the bracket under the floor, if you have the one that you had to cut the floor out and it includes the pedal.

I went to a mechanical linkage a month or so ago after playing games with it this year when I changed my intake. The car is so much crisper with the mechanical rod linkage. It snaps like a pro stock when I blip the throttle because there is no slow wasted movement of the cable. Mess with it for a while but if you ever put a nitrous micro switch under the throttle linkage then your hair will turn grey trying to get it right.
Hhttp://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p202/thetpro1/ow did you come up with a solid linkage? Factory pedal by the way.
 

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Mine is a 66 and since I had the firewall smoothed there was no way to make it work the original way. I know Smith Racecraft makes on for a stock firewall on a 66 but I ended up getting a professional chassis shop to put a race type pedal in the car with the bracketry to hold it in place and then they ran the rod through the firewall. Your problem is that you don't have enough movement before you hit the floor with the pedal to compensate for the slack and flex in the cable. It looks like you have it in the closest hole to the pivot point of the linkage which shortens the throw required to open it all the way.

Maybe some others on here will chime in if they used on in your year.
 

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the floor pedal needs to be cut and rewelded with more angle . And the carb linkage needs to be in the upper (big hole) . These two mods will give you more pull .

i have a 62 , and i had to do this to make it work !
 

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the floor pedal needs to be cut and rewelded with more angle . And the carb linkage needs to be in the upper (big hole) . These two mods will give you more pull .

i have a 62 , and i had to do this to make it work !
If the linkage ends up in the upper hole it will have to pull the cable further to do the same thing. The arc of the circle is longer instead of the tight one toward the middle of the circle which is closest to the hole. The only thing the upper one might do is lessen the tension when pulling.
 

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If the linkage ends up in the upper hole it will have to pull the cable further to do the same thing. The arc of the circle is longer instead of the tight one toward the middle of the circle which is closest to the hole. The only thing the upper one might do is lessen the tension when pulling.
Yah, your correct . But the tension is alot less , and the pedal feels so much better ! The difference is minimal in terms of distance pulled . I guess i should have said just cut and reweld with more angle . BUT the mods works out great for me . Im using the hp1000 carb (same kinkage) . In fact i have so much pull , my pedal doesnt hit the floor , so i had to make a stop welded to my floor so i dont snap the cable .
 

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If the pedal hits the floor too quick or doesn't hit at all, you can un spline the two halves and change the angle of the Lokar pedal/arm assembly and fix that in an instant. I have used these cables on several apps and had great results. Once the cable is shortened and the gold piece attached I pull all the slack out of the cable which will pull the throttle pedal/arm assembly up to the firewall and I set the gold piece by screwing it in or out. Then, adjust the outer cable housing so there is no slack in it by screwing the polished part in or out and locking down the jam nut. Then I mash the pedal down and see where the arm on the carb ends up...if its maxed out and the pedal isn't on the floor, adjust the splines on the pedal/arm assembly so the pedal hits the floor at wide open throttle. If it hits the floor first, raise the pedal up by moving it in the splines and it will work great. If all the slack isn't gone it will be terrible. I have noticed that they send rather weak return springs sometimes. I usually put a stronger return spring.
 

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If the pedal hits the floor too quick or doesn't hit at all, you can un spline the two halves and change the angle of the Lokar pedal/arm assembly and fix that in an instant. I have used these cables on several apps and had great results. Once the cable is shortened and the gold piece attached I pull all the slack out of the cable which will pull the throttle pedal/arm assembly up to the firewall and I set the gold piece by screwing it in or out. Then, adjust the outer cable housing so there is no slack in it by screwing the polished part in or out and locking down the jam nut. Then I mash the pedal down and see where the arm on the carb ends up...if its maxed out and the pedal isn't on the floor, adjust the splines on the pedal/arm assembly so the pedal hits the floor at wide open throttle. If it hits the floor first, raise the pedal up by moving it in the splines and it will work great. If all the slack isn't gone it will be terrible. I have noticed that they send rather weak return springs sometimes. I usually put a stronger return spring.
yeah, what he said...!!! u beat me to it.... thats what i did on my 66..

JOHN
 

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If you have a stock floor I would use one of these from Smith racecraft.

This is the 62 nova set up. Now that we have some street time and track time I can not say enough good about them. This complete kit is around $200.00 but you will have that much into the lokar stuff



 

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If you have a stock floor I would use one of these from Smith racecraft.

This is the 62 nova set up. Now that we have some street time and track time I can not say enough good about them. This complete kit is around $200.00 but you will have that much into the lokar stuff

Looks really nice. Is this a "floating" pedal setup or more like the factory floor mount? Thanks!
 

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If you have a stock floor I would use one of these from Smith racecraft.

This is the 62 nova set up. Now that we have some street time and track time I can not say enough good about them. This complete kit is around $200.00 but you will have that much into the lokar stuff


[]

I have the same bs with the Lokar Eliminator pedal set up in the 63 - what a joke! I first had the floating lokar pedal but it had a tendancy to bind so went to the eliminator pedal only to find I wasn't getting the full pull. I like the idea of this linkage - Hows the response on it? Like surfdog said is this a floater - looks like it? Does it clear the V8 with a TCI or Heidts set up?
Also what about the trans kickdown does this brand have a set up with that or do I stick with my stretchable cable? :devil:
Thanks - GG
 

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Mine worked great. I didn't have to do anything just normal adjustment. Maybe you cut it to short. The sheath looks a little tight. Here's mine...
 

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I moved my pivot stud to the outer hole (the big one that needs a bushing to do that) and it's better, but...still not great. I have the Lokar chrome bracket, and that ends up putting the cable end about 3/4" too low for that hole. At WOT, it's a short distance between the cable end and the throttle arm, the height difference creates too much of an angle, and it binds. So...flooring it with the pedal, I can still push another 3/8-1/2" of throw at the throttle arm with my finger. I am going to make an extension to the bracket to move the cable up that 3/4" so it's more in line with the outer hole, and see if that helps.

I'm tempted to try making a pulley-style cable mount for the carb...since that way it's a straight pull the whole way from idle to WOT:

 
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