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Discussion Starter #1
Just got the 62 convertible back on the road temporarily. Rear end sounds awful and I feel a wobble. If you can hear this video maybe you can tell me what you think is going on:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Tz3fUHwY4GX1p5R2MwVnFMdHU5ZExpSEdOS3pESjREc01J/view

Here's the story: 62 had a noise in the rear I didn't like when I bought it. All original 194 6 cyl and rear end I believe. I pulled the entire rear end out when replacing trunk and floor pans. I also picked up a rear end from a 63. The axle bearings in the 62 were marginal but totally shot in the 63. When I put it back together I used the pumpkin from the 63 and axles from the 62. Also I recently found NOS axle bearings and had them pressed on the axles from the 63. Now my plan is to take the original 62 pumpkin to a shop and have him replace bearings and maybe ring and pinion. Then put it back in with the axles from the 63 with new bearings on them. I hope that makes it like I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like a bad bearing, gears running dry, or a flange rubbing on a backing plate.
I'm sure I can rule out gears running dry. I filled it from scratch with 2 quarts before reinstalling. I'm not sure I understand flange rubbing on backing plate. Where is the flange and does it spin?
 

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Here are two spots on my 68 that could be rubbing against the drumand creating a noise:



On the drums on my car that one lip fits into a groove on the outside edge of the drum and if it is rubbing you should see some shiny marks. You have to look around the whole edge of the backing plate as well as the full groove in the drum.

Also too, see how the rubber parts on on the rear axle separating the axle assembly from the leafs and from the leafs to the front and rear shackles/srping eye mounts.

You may try putting it up on jack stands and with the motor off but out of gear rotate each tire by itself and see if you can hear anything or if the rotation is not smooth.

Then maybe fire it up and put it in gear and with someone still in the driver's seat, get around the back of the car and see of you hear anything better.

It may also just be noise from an interior not being fully in. I've driven gutted cars before and you hear all kinds of strange things and nothing is rally wrong. It's just something one doesn't normally hear.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions Jim. I will put it back up on jack stands and see what I can hear (or see). It's pretty rhythmic and goes with acceleration and the wobble or vibration has me more concerned than anything. I'll let you know what I find.
 

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If the car actually wobbles, it's probably a bent axle shaft or wheel mounting flange (which could make the drum rub, as well)
 

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Yep a wobble will and I also had an issue years ago with the spot welded balance weight on a drum kicking the rim out of square to the axle flange and once I ground the weight down, the rim sat square and then had the wheel assembly as well as the drum balanced on the car to where I did have to make sure I clocked the rim back onto the axle in the same position but I had a very nicely balanced setup for driving. Not too many shops do that anymore.

If things are not square, then you should see the rim and/or tire moving in and out towards the center of the car.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This got me to thinking about the body work I did and hope it isn't a contributing factor. I replaced the rear most 16 or so inches of the frame. I used the rear most 10 inch section (with the spring eye hole) sold by Chevy2only and my neighbor made the remaining section. I was able to bolt that rear most piece to the rear panel and bumper in it's original location and pieced the rest together then welded it all together. I've been reading the shop manual section on frame underbody alignment. Wish I had a tramming gauge and knew how to use it. When I get it back up on stands today I'll check those measurements the best I can.

Jim, do you know of a good body shop in the St. Louis area to take it to if I want to get it properly checked out?
 

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I know on my computer the audio is lacking and it's hard to hear things and maybe see if you can talk to someone that knows about cars and invite them over or take him or her for a drive to see what they might think it is.

As far as frame shops, I wonder how many places might even have info for the older cars ?.

I know years ago before a buddy of mine passed away was he was working on a Camaro and I showed hi a way to take some steel angle iron or anything straight and run it from left to right somewhere up front on the car and then run another straight piece of material further back and then by looking past the one towards the other, if things were right, the reveal sighted across the one edge to the other would be even from left to right.

This is the closest I could find to describing a way to check for twist:

https://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/stitch_glue/checking_twist.html

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/02/10/checking-a-workpiece-for-twist/

I did this when I replaced the quarters, outer wheel housings, taillight panel, and a big section of the hatch floor in my 74 and the method works providing you go across sections that should have no twist between them.

I really doubt any twist on a car would create noises while driving providing nothing is put into contact with something else that was not that way before.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where I'm at with it right now is trying to decide if I want to blindly invest 500-700 to get the original 62 pumpkin rebuilt or just put it back in with the axles from the 63 that now have new bearings. It would only cost a gasket and a little time to see if the problem is just those old axle bearings. But then if I'm not happy I'll have to pull it out again to get it rebuilt.

I have some thoughts on measuring everything. I'm going to lay a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 MDF under it and try to get it parallel with the under carriage. Then using a plumb bob mark all those measurement points on the MDF and take my measurements on it. Sort of a poor man's tramming gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
BTW, what's the right way to drain the fluid? If I pull the axles first won't it leak out there? Can I remove the differential nuts and crack it open enough to drain the fluid before pulling the axles?

I used a Mity-Vac to suck out enough fluid to pull the axles first. Here is a pic of what I found on the right side. Left side had a little of it but not as much. The shavings are not metal. They feel like rubber. I think I put new seals in when I had the rear out and they seem to still be good. Maybe this is stuff that came off the axles (old gear lube dried on)??
 

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