Leaf Spring Installation
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It can be done with one person. The front bushing is pressed in and usually comes installed in a new spring. The upper and lower rear bushings should also be changed, but they just slip in and out.
When I did mine I bolted the rear shackles to the frame, then attached the front of the spring to the front hanger. A jack was used to lift the spring up to get the rear shackle bolt in. The rear end was sitting on jack stands high enough to be clear of the springs. Next new upper isolator pads were installed in the upper perch then the rear end was lowered to the springs. New lower pads were installed and the shock plates installed using 2 u bolts per side instead of 1 and the T bolts. Tighten the u bolts evenly then torque to specs.
When I did mine I bolted the rear shackles to the frame, then attached the front of the spring to the front hanger. A jack was used to lift the spring up to get the rear shackle bolt in. The rear end was sitting on jack stands high enough to be clear of the springs. Next new upper isolator pads were installed in the upper perch then the rear end was lowered to the springs. New lower pads were installed and the shock plates installed using 2 u bolts per side instead of 1 and the T bolts. Tighten the u bolts evenly then torque to specs.
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Not in the rear leaf springs. Once the rear end is off of them you only have the weight of the spring to deal with.
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What alot of people dont know, is that you should NOT fully tighten any of the bolts for the springs until you get it set back down on the ground and bounce the rear of the car a few times, then torque them down with the car on the ground.. I made that mistake with my '75....the back end sat up about 4" higher than it should have.
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That depends on the bushings. With the stock rubber type you are correct, with polyurethane it doesn't matter.
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Assuming stock style bushings, can this happen with new springs, old springs or both?
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When using urethane the center tube is able to move in the bushing and doesn't put anything in a bind. With the stock front spring bushings the center steel tube and the outer shell are bonded to the rubber. When tightened the center tube is locked against the mounting surface. If tightened down in any other position then ride height the rubber is supporting the weight of the car. If tightened properly the rubber is in a neutral position and when the suspension moves the rubber bushings flex and then return the neutral position. Unless the bushing is shot it will be the same with both old and new bushings.
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I use nylon locking nuts(for the front eye and all 4 shackle bolts),get it snug and that leaves a little play for the springs to move
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Actually, mine was with the poly bushings. I was kind of surprised because I figured the sleeves would turn inside the bushing too, no such luck.
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How tight should the bolts be before putting the wheels back down on the ground? Hand tight, a little snug, or something else?
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Was the front bushing urethane?
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Hand tight is good enough until the weight is on the springs. This can be achieved just by having the rear axle on jack stands as this places the weight of the vehicle on the springs.
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All the bushings were poly, an Energy Suspension kit. I'm about to do the same work on the wife's '77 Nova in about 2 weeks.
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You could go old school and install a set of shackles to raise the rear.
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Where did you price the leaf springs at? I got mine from Desert Mucsle for under $200.
If you feel like doing a little work the parts car I bought has a good set of them. You will need to bring your old ones with you and swap them out so the car will still be a roller. No charge for the parts.
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If you feel like doing a little work the parts car I bought has a good set of them. You will need to bring your old ones with you and swap them out so the car will still be a roller. No charge for the parts.
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