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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What can anyone tell me about Lakewood Street and Strip Traction Bars???
I just ordered some from summit but now I heard they are to short and that I should have gone with the competition ones.:confused:

PICS WOULD BE AWESOME TOO...



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I have heard the same thing and I have the short ones on mine. I have bent the main springs on the multileaf spring pack before with these. I bought mine 20 something years ago and I cannot remember what model they were but they do not hit the front spring eye but have the adjsutable squared off U bolt behind the rubber snubber to keep them from angling down during hard braking and the ones I have replaced the lower spring plate that the shocks mount to. I remember on mine I had to cut off one of the tabs that the shock would mount to and used the one on the other side of that particular traction bar.
Ideally get the ones that hit below the front spring eye AND replace the lower shock plate. Don't get cheap and don't buy the ones that clamp to the leaf pack.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Success

:D I contacted Summit and was able to change the order to the compitition ones which will hit right under the eye...but I still have one question. OK, you know how the stock shock mounting plates have the two ears for the shock right? Well it looks like the shock will be atatched to just one ear on the traction bars...is this supposed to be the right application? I'm just trying to fix the crap the previous owner did...they had cut the shock plates and pryed them open to put the universal traction bars(which are a piece of sh**) then put air shocks which led to me distroying the plates when I stepped on it...yup had dangling shocks:mad:

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Are traction bars REALLY necessary for MOST street driven cars? I have them on my '70 with multileafs, and you know, I don't see the point. I understand what they do, but I also know and have seen cars around and in mags that are REALLY fast, yet run NO traction bars OR just run leaf spring clamps.

I am going to take mine off- when I get a deep socket 11/16. I tried to jack up the car and take them off, but that loads the traction bar. I ASSUME it needs to be unloaded to take the bars off. My car rides kinda harsh, and I believe its the traction bars. Mine are a retro version, from back in the day, and that snubber is hard as a rock and is the reason why my '80 Datsun truck w/multileafs rides nicer than my Nova, IMHO..

I never thought that they could bend multileafs; I thought they only did this to single leafs when the tbar didn't hit right under teh spring perch. Thanks for posting that- yet another reason to get rid of them.
 

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Billy_Pilgrim said:
Are traction bars REALLY necessary for MOST street driven cars? I have them on my '70 with multileafs, and you know, I don't see the point. I understand what they do, but I also know and have seen cars around and in mags that are REALLY fast, yet run NO traction bars OR just run leaf spring clamps.

I am going to take mine off- when I get a deep socket 11/16. I tried to jack up the car and take them off, but that loads the traction bar. I ASSUME it needs to be unloaded to take the bars off. My car rides kinda harsh, and I believe its the traction bars. Mine are a retro version, from back in the day, and that snubber is hard as a rock and is the reason why my '80 Datsun truck w/multileafs rides nicer than my Nova, IMHO..

I never thought that they could bend multileafs; I thought they only did this to single leafs when the tbar didn't hit right under teh spring perch. Thanks for posting that- yet another reason to get rid of them.
Actually, the really fast cars run either cal-tracs or slapper bars, because they make so much power the springs would wrap up and they would chatter the tires with just u-bolts and no traction device.
This guy's almost in the sevens...no, he's not using slapper bars, he's using cal-tracs, but he's also not using just U-bolts.
http://www.calvertracing.com/gallery/Full Pics/page7pic11.htm
 

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My traction bars had tabs on it that if not used were cut off with a hacksaw. The tabs were for different shock mounting locations.

On my car I'm real happy I had the traction bars on mine. Not so much as a performance addition but a safety one. Years ago coming back from the Hot Rod Nationals in Indy I was cruising along with a buddy of mine in a pack of other cars from Saint Louis and we were maybe 50 miles out of Indy and all of a sudden I felt a bad vibration and the car butt wiggled a little so I let off the gas and I look out my driver's window to see if I can see what is going on and lo and behold there in the other lane is my 50 series tire rolling on down the highway and passing me. My buddy asks what was that and I say the rear tire just went past us and then the back end of the car slams down and I let off the gas all the way, throw the shifter in neutral and coast down in speed and then slowly veer off onto the shoulder. During this time my buddy is grasping the dash like on planes, trains, and automobiles and yelling we're gonna die. I look up the highway and the tire finally goes into the median. I get out and the car is resting on the driver's side traction bar and about then another buddy behind me comes running up and said, that was neat, do it again. You had sparks flying all over the place. I tell him, very funny and go get my tire !. Luckily I didn't apply the brakes or I would have then had brake fluid all over the place to contend with.
What happened was the axle broke off flush at the flange outside of the bearing surface and this allowed the tire to barber pole out of the wheel opening and from what we can figure it took a short time before the car then came down on the traction bar. We were doing about 60 or so and if it wasn't for the traction bar acting like a ski when it hit the ground I would have torn up the brake assembly on that side or the car might have veered one way or the other due to the backing plate digging in and the axle being on a left to right tilt. Luckily it did minor damage to the car and that Monday I went back up to Cloverdale (the town we had it towed to), got it home, did some metal work, bodywork, and paint and then replaced the axle.
I attended a show with the car the next weekend and the story had already made it around the group and people kept asking I thought you wrecked it and I said I did, but it got fixed right away and here I am.
To date the traction bar still has some grooves in the bottom of it and I'm glad they were on at the time.

Jim
 

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Custom Jim- LOL! What a story :D ... Glad no one was hurt! "That was neat, do it again"- LOL!

My car is a 350 car with some of the usual mods, and you know..I don't beat on it like I used to. SO, I borrowed a deep socket from a neighbor, and took one off this evening. Hit it with the good ol'PBLaster and off it came. I'll take the other one off tomorrow. Mine are the ones that clamp to the leaf pack, so I'm thinking no loss here. They then go to the DUMP.

Not trying to hijack the post, I think that the "universal" traction bars are sorta of the '70s version of the stick on stuff that they are putting on Honda's today. The cal-tracs and like, well, its obvious those work as they should because they are made for Nova/Camaro not just any ol'car with a leaf spring rear.

Hopefully I get some ride quality back after taking them off.

Not trying to hijack the post, BTW :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bck to my question...

Thanks CUSTOM JIM I found the pic I was looking for in yours...:beer:
 
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