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Discussion Starter #1
When I go to start my 74 Nova, nothing happens, and I mean nothing. There is no resistance when turning the key, no click, and mainly, no start. I replaced the ignition cylinder and am not sure what to do next, any ideas?
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I replaced the ignition cylinder and am not sure what to do next, any ideas?
Just to confirm... Did you replace the ignition lock cylinder (where you insert your ignition key)?... or did you replace the ignition switch (located on the steering column - under the dash)?

I am also thinking that something is not aligned/connected correctly with regards to the ignition switch rod... or the ignition lock cylinder may not have been removed and/or installed in the correct orientation or sequence.
 

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hi do you have dash lights? do you have power anywhere? ex headlights lighter etc... before you change the ignition switch check your wires going to the starter.It could be a burnt fusible link Did you do any electrical work and maybe shorted something re post answer here or pm me i have some schematics if that helps
 

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No resistance would probably be the rod down the inside of the column is disconnected from the actual ignition switch half way down the column.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ignition switch

I haven't touched the ignition switch yet although buying a new one was going to be my next move. In regards to the lights, I have never or rarely ever had dash lights, and as far as I know this just happened out of the blue (A friend who was painting the car for me had it when this all happened)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No resistance would probably be the rod down the inside of the column is disconnected from the actual ignition switch half way down the column.
I just checked and the rod is still connected to the switch and everything moves when I turn the key to start but nothing happens, it’s still not getting any resistance
 

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The ignition switch (on the column, under the dash) is where 95% of the resistance comes from.
I would say that switch has failed - probably in more way than one.

Address it sooner than later. If the slide has broken, it's a fire hazard. If the case has popped (only a few crimp tabs keep the pieces together), it's a fire hazard. If the spring has deteriorated, it's a fire hazard.

Unless something else has failed and the switch is fine, it needs to be removed from the system.
Make sure you get the correct replacement, if needed. Tilt and non-tilt columns use different ignition switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The ignition switch (on the column, under the dash) is where 95% of the resistance comes from.
I would say that switch has failed - probably in more way than one.

Address it sooner than later. If the slide has broken, it's a fire hazard. If the case has popped (only a few crimp tabs keep the pieces together), it's a fire hazard. If the spring has deteriorated,
it's a fire hazard

Unless something else has failed and the switch is fine, it needs to be removed from the system.
Make sure you get the correct replacement, if needed. Tilt and non-tilt columns use different ignition switches.
I have figured out that my car is stuck in the “run” position, could this still be an issuer with the ignition switch?
 

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Key problem

Hi if you can see the rod going to the ignition switch is working. take the switch off the steering column and carefully move the key hold the rod gently so it does not fall out of the upper part of the column. If the key works properly another words comes back to the lock position. If it does most likely a bad ignition switch. Unless there is something in the column is bad Don't forget the starter wires also
 

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Hi if you can see the rod going to the ignition switch is working. take the switch off the steering column and carefully move the key hold the rod gently so it does not fall out of the upper part of the column. If the key works properly another words comes back to the lock position. If it does most likely a bad ignition switch. Unless there is something in the column is bad Don't forget the starter wires also
If the rod does not move up and down with the key switch you are looking at a broken or stripped sector gear behind the ignition key tumbler or something happened to the bronze teeth attached to the top of the rod. I assume nobody without a key tampered with it and broke something.
 

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I have figured out that my car is stuck in the “run” position, could this still be an issuer with the ignition switch?
If the rod moves when the key is turned in the ignition tumbler, it's a bad switch (and if the switch stays in "run" when the rod moves, the switch is physically broken).
If the rod does not move with the key, you have a problem at the top of the column - likely the sector gear, as J Mark noted.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all so much for you help, the sector gear was stripped and caused all my problems. I found one at O’Reillys for like $10 and it starts perfectly now!
 
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