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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Mod note ~ Split from Kev's budget 350 thread into new thread:

John65ss said:
Uhhh... not to sound like an a$$, but are you sure yanking safety equipment is a good way to cut weight?? :confused: :eek:
They were broken anyway. The shoulder belts wouldn't stay tight against you, they'd just flop around in the breeze and then randomly snap tight when you weren't expecting it. Then a second later they'd flop around again. I got tired of it. I'll probably swap them out for H style belts eventually.

Thanks for the graphs Paul, they look pretty good:)

Kev
 

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Kev, get those new belts installed before hitting the track! I'd guess you will be trapping right around 100 MPH, and you don't want to sacrifice safety when going that fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would it be better to find a set of factory belts or is it worth the trouble to go to the H style harnesses? I didn't like the factory ones very much because the shoulder belt hit your neck in an odd spot with the bucket seats installed (sit lower). How do you mount the H belts without a cage? Anchor in the floor?

Kev
 

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I'm not sure how you would mount the belts without a roll bar. I believe there are rules that state how/where the belts are located. I know the shoulder harness is supposed to be mounted a certain distance below your shoulders, but I don't have the specifics.

At the least, find a set of factory belts with the shoulder strap if you can't mount the harness.

Post this question in the drag racing forum...I'm sure you will get a better response from someone else.
 

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I would seriously think about putting a roll bar and proper belts in it.
However ,you can mount the racing shoulder harnesses to the floor with eyebolts and backing plates. RJS has all the parts you need.
Just get a 5 point Floor mount with snap ends. Use the proper forged eyebolts. They may even have the ones that fit the metric seat belt threads already in the floor. You'll have to drill for the sub belt and shoulder belt mounts.
 

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Ahh, the snowball effect of wanting to go faster :D I wouldn't waste my money on anything other than a 5pt harness. You should install a rollbar so you have somewhere to anchor the shoulder restraints and also have a place to brace the back of your seat. You don't want the shoulder restraints to pull you "down" towards the floor. Ideally, you want to be pulled back into the seat.

The list goes on and on and on. Do you want to see my list?!?! I don't want to see it myself :eek: :shh:



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Discussion Starter #7
Yah... it's amazing how all that "little" stuff adds up. Just a four point cage or a six point? I just pulled apart my interior this winter to take out the back seat, install new speakers, dye interior panels, add new carpeting, etc. I guess I'll have to see how talented dad is with a mig welder or I'll be ripping it all back out again:(:(:(.

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With a roll bar, do you actually mount the belts anywhere or do you just wrap them around the bar? I seem to remember Dave's belts just being wrapped, but that doesn't seem too safe to me!!!

Kev
 

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novaboy009 said:
With a roll bar, do you actually mount the belts anywhere or do you just wrap them around the bar? I seem to remember Dave's belts just being wrapped, but that doesn't seem too safe to me!!!

Kev
I think you weld an eye bolt or some sort of bracket for the belt to attach to to the bar.
 

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novaboy009 said:
With a roll bar, do you actually mount the belts anywhere or do you just wrap them around the bar? I seem to remember Dave's belts just being wrapped, but that doesn't seem too safe to me!!!

Kev
My shoulder belts are wrapped around the crossbar and drawn tight with the adjuster that comes with them. That's one of the mounting methods. Much safer than LAP BELTS.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...903749+4294903736+4294903702+115&autoview=sku

Secure yourself in your racecar the right way.
These RCI latch release harnesses fully exceed SFI spec 16.1, so you'll be as secure as a harness can make you. Take your choice of 3 in. Y-type, 5-point, or wraparound shoulder harnesses--they all come with a 3 in. lap belt and a 3 in. submarine belt. These belts are secured by a latch-style buckle, which is strong, compact, and allows you to tell at a glance if the belts are locked. They come complete with hardware for roll bar or floor mounting.


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I split this discussion into a new thread.

Anyway, there are several ways to attach the harness straps. The wrap around method is preferred because it attaches to a horizontal harness bar on the roll bar or cage. This puts the straps at the right position. The webbing is cinched with a buckle that is self tightening. I'll post pictures of both wrap and bolt mount.
 

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Paul Wright said:
I split this discussion into a new thread.

Anyway, there are several ways to attach the harness straps. The wrap around method is preferred because it attaches to a horizontal harness bar on the roll bar or cage. This puts the straps at the right position. The webbing is cinched with a buckle that is self tightening. I'll post pictures of both wrap and bolt mount.
Didn't I just say that?!?! :D I can post pics of mine.



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I was in the middle of splitting the thread when you were posting! Go ahead and post your pictures. It will save me the time.
 

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Is it possible to put in a two point roll bar? Up from the floor to the roof, over to the other side and back down. And then another horizontal bar going accross at the height in WFO's picture for the seatbelts.

Just wondering if it is beneficial at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It seems silly not to at least put the bars back through (4 point). You'd lose the chassis stiffness without it.

Would a 4 point be okay for my application? I don't really want to have to dive over the down bars in a regular driver.

Kev
 

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72Orange said:
Is it possible to put in a two point roll bar? Up from the floor to the roof, over to the other side and back down. And then another horizontal bar going accross at the height in WFO's picture for the seatbelts.

Just wondering if it is beneficial at all.
That wouldn't do jack. Nothing is triangulated. You at least need the bars from the top of the main hoop down to the frame rails in the trunk. But if it were me, I'd put the door bars in and use a swing-out kit since it's his daily driver.



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DriveWFO said:
That wouldn't do jack. Nothing is triangulated. You at least need the bars from the top of the main hoop down to the frame rails in the trunk. But if it were me, I'd put the door bars in and use a swing-out kit since it's his daily driver.
That's what I figured, I was just wondering.
 

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Kev...JMO here but if your going to go to all the trouble to install a roll bar why not do it (W)right:rolleyes: ...Put in at least a 6 point roll bar set up...as Dave said that will stiffen your chassis and you can install a door kit so you dont have to "dive" over the door bar all the time..

Just my 2 cents...:)
 

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I would seriously think about putting a roll bar and proper belts in it.
However ,you can mount the racing shoulder harnesses to the floor with eyebolts and backing plates.
WARNING: This is a BAD idea. Do some research about proper shoulder harness mounting before drilling your floor. You do NOT want the shoulder belt to be mounted to the floor behind the seat, or you are risking serious spinal compression injury if you ever need to USE the belt.

Shoulder belt mounts must be located so that the belt leaves the top of the shoulder at an angle of not more than 25 degrees below the horizontal (horizontal or higher is preferred). A low mount will generate compressive forces in the spine during impact, which could cause injuries. Where shoulder belts are mounted to a roll bar, the mount should be designed to minimize the likelihood of cutting the belt during a rollover.
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/safety/safety.htm

This is just one such reference I found in a quick search. You'd be far better off using stock belts if you will not have a roll bar to mount the belt. Otherwise, you'd probably be mounting the belt on the package tray.

As far as safety goes, I'd be more worried about having the belts for street driving. I was a 20-something kid with a "hot rod" '70 Nova, and I know how I drove the streets of Pittsburgh back in those days. I suspect Kev is no different. ;) A Nova set up for the track is not going to stop / handle as well as a late model car.

BTW... my '70 only had lap belts, but fortunately, I never had to USE 'em!
 
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