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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
K72nova Project Rework.

After spending way too long not working on this car I am finally going to do a real restoration on it, I bought the car when I was 16 back in 2000 and when I was 18 I took off the subframe had it sandblasted and painted, rebuilt the front suspension and installed a SSBC disc brake conversion. After having the car sit for a few years I had to move and the Nova ended up in storage for a few years. I bought a house when I turned 23 and started working on the car again little by little till I got it running again, then I decided to move again when I was 25 I had a better job and I could move out of the bad neighborhood that I had moved to, sold the house when I was 26 and the Nova sat in storage while I moved back in to my moms house for a couple months till I could find a new house. Well I found that new house a couple years ago and it just happens to have a 24x30 shop in the back yard, which by no means is what I based about 50% of my purchase after :D Anyway I got married back in March 2012 and decided I had to drive the Nova for the wedding so I threw it together as fast as I could and got it going, now I plan on tearing it back down and doing a thorough job and getting this thing back into its prime. I plan on taking the car the Pro Touring route and currently have a TKO600, 8.5 rear Eaton posi 3.73, back is lowered with Hotchkis springs and Cal-tracs with Cal-tracs 9 way adjustable shocks, the front is lowered 1" with CPP springs but it needs to come a lot lower. The Nova doesn’t look like it has too much rust to deal with but looks can be deceiving, the original owner I bought it from had just had it repainted a few years before I bought it so I’ll just have to see what they covered up. I’m currently going to college and my wife and I are trying to have kids so this entire build will be funded by overtime. As for some back story on me, my father’s first car was a 72 Nova that he had sold before I was born, when I saw pictures of it when I was a kid I decided I had to have one, I started looking around when I was 15 and finally found this one when I was 16, I’m really happy my mom was around to help me out because looking back at some of the cars that I was planning on buying, well… I could have been in a lot of trouble trying to figure out how to restore a few of them. Anyway I’m dedicating this build to my dad, now onto the pictures!

This is the Nova at the car wash about a week before my wedding

This is how it sits currently in my shop




Cherry bombs and the spark plugs left over from my flame throwers :devil:


Loudest fuel pump known to man :turn:

Driver’s side quarter

This is where the rust is starting to show and obvious problems are that I’ll need to take care of, not too bad.



The 350 that sits in it right now

And the LQ4 that will be going into it. :D

TKO600 with a bit too much yoke sticking out for me, does anyone happen to know if this would be a problem? I’ll have to measure how much is sticking out and how much is actually inside, I plan on using Dirty Dingo adjustable motor mounts to hopefully move the whole engine back a little to fix this but I’m still unsure if it will work or not.

Drivers side floor pan before I did some work to it.

During the fix, it’s done now and covered with seam seal but that’ll be coming out soon enough when I start to restore the interior.
 

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is that a long yoke with a portion of it un-splined. those were use for certain trans and i have cut that portion off before to get more teeth in contact when i had to use one one my th400, that originally came with a short yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
is that a long yoke with a portion of it un-splined. those were use for certain trans and i have cut that portion off before to get more teeth in contact when i had to use one one my th400, that originally came with a short yoke.
It's actually just a standard yoke that came with my TKO, what happened is when I received the original driveshaft from the company I ordered the transmission from it was a little too long so I sent it back and measured for the new one and must have messed up on my measuring.


Started bodywork today, I was a little weary as to why someone would take a "Rust Free" car that had great original paint and have it painted, well today I found out why...
This is what a minute of DA sanding showed me

After about 5 minutes of running through the body filler on the lip I decided to just rip it out with the wire wheel and then I got a little upset when I saw this...

This is about an inch thick or maybe a little more


Well the lower back passenger wheel well is made of body filler and here is the hole to prove it..

I found a sponge and some gasket adhesive when I was cleaning out the hole.

They did something similar to the front side of the same wheel well.



So much for a rust free car, I can't complain though.. I've had it pretty good with this car till now.
I just thought this would be a cool picture of all the different shades and layers of paint and primer, it also tells me that the original owner didn't just have it repainted once like he told me.. wonder if he is even the original owner..

Forgot to mention that all this was skimmed with body filler as well, between 1/4-1/2 thick.. must have been in a wreck or hit something at one point because there are a lot of high's and lows.


This is all the dirt that came out of the rear bumper
 

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Small update, Sanding is slow so I decided to use paint stripper on the larger areas and then sand off the original primer with 80 grit, I decided to try 2 differed aerosol paint strippers just for fun and to see how the two compared. I used Klean-Strip I think it was called, the 15 minute formula and a citrus based green formula that is safe for indoor use and these are the results. Sorry about using cell phone pictures in this update but it’s what I had on me.
This is what the Klean-Strip looked like after the 15 minute wait.

This is the citrus based stripper after 30 minutes.

This is the side by side of the two of them after waiting their allotted time and scraping them off. As you can see the citrus stripper did pretty much nothing.

This is just a shot of a larger area that I sprayed along with doing a second coat on the square I initially tested.

The Klean-strip on its second coat is eating the paint well enough to drag it down the side of the car!

And finally after 2 coats of Klean-Strip on both sides this is the result.

I must note that I am not affiliated with klean-strip or anyone else really; I just wanted to do a side by side. The citrus stripper I used says to wait between 30 minutes to 24 hours so when I get home from work today I will be at the 24 hour mark of trying it over and I will post pictures if there is a difference in what the citrus based product can do.
 

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I have used the aircraft stripper(works really good) on an old 69 Chevy truck that I did up and painted black. I had to finish the factory sealer or primer with an 80 grit also on my DA sander.
 

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THAT AIRCRAFT STRIPPER WILL PULL ALL THAT PAINT AND ANYTHING ELSE RIGHT OFF! :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good to know, I'll have to pick up some aircraft stripper then and try it out. I heard laquer thinner will take off the factory primer but I'm going to stick to a DA with 80 grit. I'll need that 80grit finish for spraying primer anyway. Oh and that citrus stripper worked just as well as the kleanstrip stuff, it just took the 24 hours of setting up to work its magic, I'll have to see if I can get a picture of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man I made it all the way to page 7 before updating, I have a hard time keeping myself motivated to work on the Nova during the winter; anyway here is a small update on things.
I stripped the passenger side a bit more, removed the door handles, and interior door panels.

As far as the drivers side goes, it’s in a lot worse shape than I had hoped for. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but the body filler is pretty thick in some spots. I realized quickly that brown primer is an indicator that I will find dents and body filler in that area.


This is the thickest patch of body filler I’ve found so far on the driver’s side.

Close up of it.

Front and rear of the wheel wells are rotted through.



Removed the front fenders and bumper, I’m selling the engine and want to keep it in the car until it’s sold so I can show the buyer that it runs. Hopefully I can get it sold soon so I can start on smoothing the firewall.

Last shot I took before heading inside to get warm

I really want to keep as much of the original metal as I can but I might have to buy some quarter skins. For now the plan is to try out my new eastwood hammer and dolly set out that I got for Christmas!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick Update:

I pulled the engine and cleared off most of the firewall.




Started pulling the interior and glass






Cluster of wires and gauges, you can see off to the side that most of the door trim didn’t make it. The PO used a pretty strong double sided tape to keep them on which didn’t help with removal. (The prybar wasn’t used for trim removal.)




Windshield didn’t make it




As the car sits today


I picked up a pair of seats out of a 2005 GTO, I wasn’t able to get the seatbelts with them but I got a good deal so I’m not upset. I’ll just have to make something work.



I just bought a gallon of SPI epoxy primer, I hope to have the exterior stripped to bare metal then primed by the end of the weekend.
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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Yeah, my PO said rust free and never been wrecked...check my photobucket for the real story. At least your free rust is in small areas.
I installed a set of the 3 point conversion seat belts and am pretty happy with them, bolted right into the old mounts.
Keep after it; My oldest (35) son took his oldest (11) out in my 72 for some personal 1 on 1 time and they had a ball. It was the first time he had really driven the car more than around the block. When they got back a few hours later he had a huge grin and quoted Will Smith from Independence Day "I GOTTA get one of these!"
Keep after it and keep the pictures coming.
 

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Keep up the work. I'm sure you'll appreciate it more at the end than someone who farms out all their work.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
2013-5-31

Thanks for all the kind words!

I spent around 20 hours on the car over the weekend which got me to bare metal in enough areas to know what panels I'll need to order, I’m still a little iffy on a few areas but now I know where all the really bad spots are. I went and bought myself a DeVilbiss starting line paint gun kit and some SPI black epoxy primer so I can get it recoated for the time being, I would do panel replacement first but I don’t know how long before I get the time. I planned on laying down the primer sometime during the week but the weather has been crap, so I’ve been wiping it down with wax and grease remover every day to try to keep it from flash rusting. Going camping for the weekend and the weather is supposed to be nice on Sunday so I might come home early in the morning to shoot primer. Anyway here are a few shots on how the car looks, I’ve done a bit more sanding than what is in these pictures but this is about where it sits right now… I think it’s about time for some spring cleaning, and time to finish paneling and insulating the shop..





Here are a few of the small surprises I found while stripping it down; nothing too bad besides what was found when I very first started stripping the car.

Drivers Quarter and Trunk.






Passenger Bumper, you can see all the way through to the trunk..


Drivers Windshield



I’m hoping I will be able to just clean this spot out and weld it shut, this will ruin the lead but I plan on shaving the drip rail anyway which will require me to fix the leaded areas when I’m finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I finally had a hot and dry enough day to shoot the primer, it was a fun week waiting on the weather; I was out there every day rubbing it down with wax and grease remover hoping it wouldn’t start to rust on me. A lot of the primer will be coming back off when I replace metal, weld, and do other miscellaneous things to the car. I just really wanted to get down to bare metal so I knew what I needed to replace, I have no idea how long it’ll take me to get all that done so I figured I would prime it to save it from flash rusting.

Before

After




The black sure does help me see all the dents that need to be repaired.







I think the next project will be putting some hanging shelving in the garage to clean the shop out a bit so I have more room to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
cars not that bad:no: so what stripper did you end up going with??? sorry if i missed it....


Oh woops, I completely forgot about that! I mostly used the 15 minute Klean-Strip liquid; I used the aerosol in a few spots like the lower quarters where the liquid wouldn’t stick. That stuff worked really well and it would actually strip in about 5 – 10 minutes. I had to finish the car with the 30 minute stuff though because my local lowes stopped selling the 15 minute. It worked just a well it just took longer.
 
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