[ckanderson]

i have two that look like this. I pulled them after finding what seemed to be a bit more metal shavings in my oil then normal.

this is a comp cams thumper cam, comp cams lifters, installed about 300 miles ago (MAX), using redline break in additive and a quality semi synthetic oil

Should also mention I am using a magnetic drain plug. it had a medium amount of particles on it.

the rest look normal

thanks guys

 

[taz3]

I would say so, what oil are you running and what oil did you do the break in with?

 

[ckanderson]

I would say so, what oil are you running and what oil did you do the break in with?

this is the oil
http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/e_1091.html
broken in with eos, and this lubro moly stuff.

if it is in fact failing, am i able to drop in new lifters?

 

[photoman]

That's a bummer! Looks like lifter failure to me. Interesting too because that looks like a hardened face lifter.

 

[Paul Wright]

Yes, that lifter face is eroded. You should see a circular wear pattern if the lifter was spinning properly. I'd look at the lobe for wear but you may have caught it in time.

 

[ckanderson]

Yes, that lifter face is eroded. You should see a circular wear pattern if the lifter was spinning properly. I'd look at the lobe for wear but you may have caught it in time.

so paul, if the cam is looking fine, am i able to drop in two new lifters and button it up?

 

[Paul Wright]

Well, metal shavings in the oil may indicate other problems or it may mean the engine wasn't cleaned properly after coming back from the machine shop.
Did you cut open the oil filter and inspect for debris in the pleats? Any bearing material?
It's hard for me to say if you need a complete tear down and inspection or not.

It's also what you do after you "button it up" that needs to be considered.

Make sure the lifters are all spinning during break-in. If not, stop.

What does one of your good lifters look like? They should have a circular wear pattern.

 

[ckanderson]

Well, metal shavings in the oil may indicate other problems or it may mean the engine wasn't cleaned properly after coming back from the machine shop.
Did you cut open the oil filter and inspect for debris in the pleats? Any bearing material?
It's hard for me to say if you need a complete tear down and inspection or not.

It's also what you do after you "button it up" that needs to be considered.

Make sure the lifters are all spinning during break-in. If not, stop.

What does one of your good lifters look like? They should have a circular wear pattern.

the engine is a gm replacement engine installed 10k miles ago or so. havent opened the oil filter yet, and they were more like speckles, less of shavings. all the rest of the lifters look perfect, their wear pattern matches the ones on the lifters i took out on the old cam. the material is magnetic so i wouldent think it was bearings.

 

[Rroxon7]

Make sure the lifters are all spinning during break-in. If not, stop.

How can you tell if the lifters are spinning ??...What would be noticable??

 

[ckanderson]

Make sure the lifters are all spinning during break-in. If not, stop.

How can you tell if the lifters are spinning ??...What would be noticable??

paul mentioned painting a dot on the pushrods and lifting up part of the valve cover to make sure they were spinning

 

[D-Man]

Make sure the lifters are all spinning during break-in. If not, stop.

How can you tell if the lifters are spinning ??...What would be noticable??

Put a "DOT" on the tops (on the sides) of your pushrods. Then leave the top 2 (Intake side) bolts out on your valve covers. When you start it up and raise the idle for break-in, periodically lift/tilt the valve covers and see if the pushrods are spinning.

I would PM Veno and ask him about the oil/supplument you're using.... I'm wondering if the Mos2 isn't as good as the ZDDP? I know Mos2 paste is used for break-in, but it also allows the cam and lifters to establish a wear pattern. I don't know anything about the Redline additive so I have no clue if it would help guard against this sort of thing or not. I do know there's a new "Snake oil" out there every day!!

 

[Paul Wright]

If this was a stock GM crate engine then this is perplexing. Usually these are not afflicted by this problem. If you changed the cam but re-used the stock lifters that would explain it. It also may be the oil you are using though I wouldn't rule out acid build up causing the pitting.

 

[ckanderson]

If this was a stock GM crate engine then this is perplexing. Usually these are not afflicted by this problem. If you changed the cam but re-used the stock lifters that would explain it. It also may be the oil you are using though I wouldn't rule out acid build up causing the pitting.

changed the cam and installed new lifters. comp cams kit.

guess ill try switching to the vr1 40w.

gonna inspect the cam for wear today, ill also cut open the oil filter

 

[ckanderson]

I would PM Veno and ask him about the oil/supplument you're using.... I'm wondering if the Mos2 isn't as good as the ZDDP? I know Mos2 paste is used for break-in, but it also allows the cam and lifters to establish a wear pattern. I don't know anything about the Redline additive so I have no clue if it would help guard against this sort of thing or not. I do know there's a new "Snake oil" out there every day!!

the redline additive is supposed to contain zddp, i've had good luck with lubro products on other cars i've owned so thats why i used it.

 

[Paul Wright]

in response to my failed lifter thread, what should the cam look like? what kind of failure on the cam am i lookin for? the lobes on the cam with the problem lifter appear to be the same as the rest (in terms of wear)

I am only inspecting the cam through the lifter bores, and i'd rather not pull the cam if i dont have to.

The cam should be smooth not pitted or grooved. It could be worn slightly but not noticeably so. I would get a mag base dial indicator and measure the lobe lift. If any are worn then replace the cam. Is this a stock crate engine cam or was it changed?

 

[levisnteeshirt]

i'd buy

everybody that comes to this site this stuff if i could ,, but ,,, buy it yourself so you'll get that much more satisfaction ,,lol

i don't sell it anymore but i'm seriously considering it again ,, long story why i'm not ,, but i still believe in it

Pro Blend has the most no-nonsense demo machine there is ,,, no funky levers or anything else ,, just a torque wrench connected to a roller bearing connected so that it won't roll against a rolling metal wheel so that the oil must prevent metal to metal contact in order for the wheel to keep moving with applied pressure. It can get the oil very hot while doing this so you can see a more real world enviroment. I've tested every kind of synthetic oil and every assembly lube i could get my hands on ,,, i never found anything to even come close
http://store.wpsracing.com/oifladpeenas.html

 

[ckanderson]

The cam should be smooth not pitted or grooved. It could be worn slightly but not noticeably so. I would get a mag base dial indicator and measure the lobe lift. If any are worn then replace the cam. Is this a stock crate engine cam or was it changed?

its a comp cams thumpr cam, which i installed a few months ago. i want to change the cam anyways, since i installed the cam before i knew what i was doing. might just do the cam anyways