[apollojay]

when overlapping a 1/4 seam, are either of these products really needed for the initial coat or is this overkill? i have been researching and found yes and no. i will be spraying the entire 1/4 with epoxy primer and using rage gold to fill it in. it looks like it will be a light fill so that is why i am asking. also, do i prime before or after i fill? is the filler best on bare metal? the repairs will be staying in the primered stage for a while. thanks.
-jay

 

[shawn63]

My body guy lapped the qtr skins as well; he says he'll be using "mar-glass" (reinforced filler) to smooth the joints.

 

[Madmoose]

I use duraglass on my joints when i do my body work and i havent had any problems yet

 

[geneo]

I put a couple coats of dtm epoxy down 1st (dtm =direct to metal) then you put your filler on top... then you have a chemical bond vs adhesion bond plus you will be working from a sealed surface for corrosion protection.

 

[bonehead71]

I put a couple coats of dtm epoxy down 1st (dtm =direct to metal) then you put your filler on top... then you have a chemical bond vs adhesion bond plus you will be working from a sealed surface for corrosion protection.[/QUOTE

I wouldnt use any filler on top of primer uless it is epoxy primer .

 

[69AKDN]

when overlapping a 1/4 seam, are either of these products really needed for the initial coat or is this overkill? i have been researching and found yes and no. i will be spraying the entire 1/4 with epoxy primer and using rage gold to fill it in. it looks like it will be a light fill so that is why i am asking. also, do i prime before or after i fill? is the filler best on bare metal? the repairs will be staying in the primered stage for a while. thanks.
-jay

'Metal to Metal' or 'All Metal' and Fiberglass fillers do not absorb moisture. Polyester fillers 'filler' is Talc which will absorb moisture. Your welds may have pinholes that you can not see, this is why you want a filler that will not absorb moisture. You will get many opinions on whether to fill over epoxy or bare metal, I believe you will get a better 'bite' on bare metal ( ensure the metal has a good 'tooth', nothing finer than 80grit ). If you aren't going to finish the bodywork right away put it in epoxy and you are set.

 

[low72nova]

i hope other respond to this post because i have the very same questions as jay but mine is butt welded and will be using the same filler.Mine will only be needing about a skim like the thickness of 3 or 4 sheets of paper.The tail light panel and where the 1/4 meets was lead filled so i was wondering if the metal 2 metal would be best for that area then rage over that

 

[low72nova]

come on out body pros lol

 

[TechNova]

I would NEVER NEVER put a polyester filler (std filler) over a weld joint.
Spraying epoxy first does not seal out the pinholes.
We always used Duraglass type products until we started having comebacks about 15 years ago. We switched to All Metal type products and have not had a single comeback related to this product. I still see some of the cars I did 20 years ago and can tell the ones I used Duraglass on.
This was not the result of just one can of Duraglass type products.
If you plan to use epoxy first, rad the tech sheet to see if you can put filler over it. Some epoxies do not recommend it. A DTM is not the same as an epoxy.
I usually finish all the filler over bare metal unless there will be an extended repair time, then I will epoxy first. Many times I have used All Metal, rough ground or sanded it close then used epoxy. This allows me to get the body work close, seal it good with epoxy, then I can take my time doing the final filler work. This can be handy in humid weather when you are working on the car part time.