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Discussion Starter #1
Ok gang, need your help. Totally stumped on this one.

Put on a tci front clip, swapped the i6 for v8, put in a 700r4. Sweet set up right? If I can figure this out, I'll be ready to roll. Here is the deal. Moved the battery to the trunk because there was no good(read easy) way to mount the battery upfront after installing the kit. That is when the problem started. First I will describe the phenomena then I will tell you what I've done so far.

The problem:

Go fire the baby up and she cranks away, starter turns for about 10-15 seconds strong before gas hits the carb (lets say it sat 2 weeks) and she purrs. I drive for 30 minutes, fuel up, turn the key and nothing. I have headlights, horn, etc, but no cranking of the starter. Go round to the back, check the battery with a volt meter 12.7. Pull out the jumper cables, find a kind soul, she fires right back up. Drive her home to the garage, kill the engine, turn the key, fires right up, kill the engine turn the key, nothing. Get the jumper cables out again, fires right up. Kill the engine, turn the key, nothing. Wait 30 seconds fires right up again.

The setup:

I ran a 1G hot wire from the trunk to the starter and grounded a 1g wire in the trunk. When I posted the first time the most popular answers were

1. Should use thin stranded 1G from a welding supply store
2. Should run a second 1G ground wire all the way to the block

Did both this weekend and..... SAME PROBLEM!

Now I'm thinking could be:

1. Starter solenoid, but never had this issue before I moved the battery to the trunk.
2. Neutral Saftey switch, but have serious doubts here

And thats it, other than those two I'm out of ideas. Anyone with more experience please throw in your two cents.

THANKS!!

-Silky :confused:

Another example
 

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If you have a push button jumper trigger, I would use that on the starter to eliminate the car wiring. If it works good, then the problem is in the vehicle wiring. If it still does not work, you might need a new starter. Where did you connect that main wire at the radiator support that went to the battery? Alternator is charging good?
 

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First, let's make sure the battery is ok. What does the voltage fall to when you crank it? It should stay above 9.5 volts. If you turn the key and the battery voltage doesn't drop below 11 volts, you are not getting current to the starter.
 

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Also, did you remove the harness from the firewall? This tends to give some problems, might wanna check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
back in the garage today

Thanks to those that replied. Will provide an updated shortly.

I'm going to google "heat soak" and check on what the battery does when cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just found this, sounds spot on, will check the current draw

Symptom: You turn the key and nothing happens. Nothing. Not even a click. The voltmeter does however show you sucking major current.
You can wait for the starter to cool off (about an hour usually) or you can get more current to the solenoid so it can finally develop enough force to run the starter. Although the wiring is fine it's not heavy enough to pass the current required by the solenoid when hot.
Solution #1 get a long screwdriver and short from the main starter terminal to the solenoid terminal. Works great. Makes lots of sparks. Destroys screwdrivers. Sometimes cars.
Solution #2 Get a new solenoid/starter. Doesn't always solve the problem.
Solution # 3 Wire in a relay that's triggered by the keyswitch and has current on a heavy wire direct from the battery.
 

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What was the voltage when you were cranking? Is it below 9.5 volts? It sounds like you have a remote solenoid now, correct? It sounds like you are grounding to the chasiss in the trunk. You may want to run a ground up to the engine.

It could also be classic heat soak.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
update

So to recap, the battery is in the trunk with two 1 gauge wires running the length of the car hot and ground. I am currently not running a remote solenoid.

I just went out to fire her up this morning cold. Turned the key and nothing. No cranking, no clicking, nothing. Headlights work. Voltmeter reads 12.5VDC, with key on it drops to 12.2VDC, with key turned to crank (but no spin or engagement of starter) drops to 11.7VDC.

Now I'm starting to think its because the battery is too low. But the odd thing is, after a long drive (when you'd think it was well charged, as charging circuit does work) it would turn, but as mentioned gas station stops are embarassing.

Maybe its a combo heatsoak and low battery?

Please keep throwing ideas at me, here is what happened today.

My next move should be what? Remote solenoid? Mini starter? new fancy optima battery? Don't mind spending the cash if it fixes the problem, but would like to do one instead of all three. :)
 

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check your neutral safety switch:yes: unplug it and jump the terminals. if it starts then you know the switch is the problem. same thing happened to my 64 last week:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
more updates

So pulled the toyota out and jumped her. Started no problem. Took her round the block and on the freeway, 10 min drive, got the temp up to 180 degrees. Pulled back in the garage. Killed the engine, turned the key and again, silence. Grabbed the voltmeter, back to the trunk, battery measures 12.8.

all ideas welcome
 

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Discussion Starter #14
another update

so... after I jumped it I left it in the driveway for awhile. Hot california day, two hours passed or so, turned the key, nothing. Not cold, but not hot. pulled the toyota up again, jumper cables on, turned the key, nothing. !!! Sat there for 30 seconds or a minute or so, turned the key again and wham! back in business!

is this making sense to anyone?
 

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Intermittent starting has me puzzled...help!

Hey Now, You need to check the spade connections at firewall where the fuse block and underhood wireing go through the fire wall. Also check connections on back of ignition switch. Another thing is to be sure the grounds to engine, body and frame are clean and tight. after that try a different solenoid at the starter. If you have a GM starter be sure that the solenoiid spring is the short one for High Torque starters such as vetts. Then move to starter if every thing else checks out. Respectfully, "Bill's" II
 

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Sounds like you are having the same problem I had with my car. I traced mine down the the connection under the dash for the neutral safety switch. The wire in the connector had corroded. It is a single purple wire. I ran a external starter button for along time until I could find the time to actually find and fix the problem.
 

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If you are only dropping to 12.2 volts while trying to start the car, the starter is not pulling any current. I would say the battery and your cabling to the front are fine. Next time it doesn't start, put the volt meter on the wire going from the ignition to starter solenoid and make sure it is getting power If it is, then I'd say it is a starter issue, otherwise, determine why the you are not getting power on that circuit.

The odd thing is it starts when you jump it. This is weird.

Dave
 

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By jumping it aren't you by passing the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and the wire to and from them. Sounds like your problem should be in that circuit some were and not the starter, battery or cables if jumping it always works.

EarlyIIs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
jump starting with jumper cables, not a screwdriver across the starter

just in case there was any confusion. I think what I'll do next is move the battery up to the front of the car on a stool. Hook up shorter cables to the starter and see if that solves the problem. At this point I think it will be cheaper/easier to just make a spot for it up front. I'm at my wits end.
 
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