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Hello - I am getting ready to shoot paint on my rig, and I realize that I likely need different paint for my dash that is a matte or less reflective finish. What do I need to add to the dash paint to get it toned down properly?

Also, I'm thinking of actually shooting the interior and jambs with single stage (exterior is base and clear).

Bad idea?
 

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To match original, there has to be a flattening agent in the clear coat. You can use a satin clear, but those vary and might not have the same amount of flattening as original. Not that easy to match, and it takes some trial and error as it's brand-specific.

Top of the dash (no dash pad) is another story. If you have not dash pad, that's likely a slightly different color, and has a slight texture to it. I've seen a few restorations that have painted that color correctly including my brother's '65 wagon, but I don't know how it's done. Maybe a member could point out formulas they have used to get the top of the dash painted right.
 

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Base coat clear coat with a flattening agent added will have the best results. Making a spray out card to see how much flattener (matte agent) to add will help too. Depending which paint system your using, the paint store your buying from should have a sample of the sheen your trying to achieve and along with the formula. A single stage with a flattener will work and does look good. It will be a little cheaper because you will have to buy less products and less coats overall. You'll only have to apply a sealer and single stage rather than adding a sealer, base and clear coat. I do them both ways all the time at work. Another factor is if it's a metallic color your shooting on the interior, a base coat will be easier to spray than doing it in single stage. If it's a soild color, it wont matter. Also shooting single stage on your jambs works but if your already doing the exterior in base/clear, you mine as well do the jambs in base clear to keep it uniform.
 
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