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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I think it`s time for me to put money into my (1978) 305. The first thing I want to install is an Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold. I`m a complete noob so bare with me.

Is this a ¨big¨ job?
Will this intake manifold be compatable with the stock 2bbl Carb?
Will this give me a reasonable boost in performance?


Thankyou.
 

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Will this intake manifold be compatable with the stock 2bbl Carb?
Will this give me a reasonable boost in performance?
Using an adaptor to mount your stock 2bbl would cost too much to notice a difference in performance, unless you have a really sensitive wallet!
The manifold and a small (570-670 cfm) 4bbl. would be a better way to go.
I would look at a Holley Street Avenger.
I hear 305's respond quite well to an intake and carb swap, but I still haven't dug into the one I have in the shop. It's in line between the 307, the 2-350's, the 383 (current build) the 377 (maybe next in line)....getting the 410" we just stuck in the Dart dialed in................
 

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The job is fairly simple and will yield modest gains ...with a 4 barrel about 12 hp.
I would use a Quadrajet because that was a factory option with the LM-1 350.
Find a 350 '78 Caprice in a boneyard and snag the carb, throttle brackets and such.
I've got the best metering rod/jet combo written down somewhere for a 305.

The hardest part for a "noob" is plopping the distributor back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks you guys, I guess my first upgrade is going to have to be a 4bbl Carburator. And I`ve doing some research and it seems Quadrajet (is that Q-Jet?)are the way to go.



....but, this is my daily driven car, Do 4 bbl waste alot of fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Once you hear the sound of a Q-jet's secondaries open you'll be playing in them all day long. Hence you'll burn more fuel. Seriously though if you dont beat on it and stay out of the secondaries I don't think you'll notice a huge difference in fuel consumption.
So, when you really step on it, is when the other ports open?
 

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The Quadrajet has huge secondary's that are vacuum operated. When the load decreases the air pressure in the manifold the air valve opens. just driving around town you stay in the primaries which are smaller than the 2 barrel you have now. Potential is for better economy..... if you keep your foot out of it.
 

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The edelbrock #2101 performer is designed to fit spread bore carburators such as the quadrajet. I did exactly what you want to do on a 2 barrel 305 and with the carburetor and misc parts (throttle linkage, cable, bracket, spring) you can source from a '78-'79 350 Caprice, it will fit right on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The edelbrock #2101 performer is designed to fit spread bore carburators such as the quadrajet. I did exactly what you want to do on a 2 barrel 305 and with the carburetor and misc parts (throttle linkage, cable, bracket, spring) you can source from a '78-'79 350 Caprice, it will fit right on.
Good good, I will get the edelbrock #3701 (emissions controled daily driver).

Are you saying I'm also going to need another throttle linkage, cable, bracket and spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, for the past days I've been looking at the Junkyard and onCraigslist for a Q-jet...No luck, Only found a Q jet with electrical connectors.


.....But, I was lucky enough to receive an Edelbrock 1406 carb for free, from my uncle. It looks fairly new but I plan on taking apart for the fun of it:D


One thing really is confusing me though:confused: The edelbrock 1406 is an emissions illegal Non EGR carb. The EGR valve I have right now is not even connected to the carb. Its connected to the Intake.

Anyways I keep posting my progress and thanks again for the help.
 

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One of the best tricks I use when doing intakes is before removing the distributer make an alignment mark at the base that is indexed to the block or even something on the firewall. As you pull the distributer out hold it firm and dont allow it to rotate. The rotor will slightly rotate as it is lifted and as soon as it stops slap a big piece of tape over the roter to hold it in place. If you dont monkey with it while it is on the shelf it drops exactly back in and saves a lot of time getting the oil pump to line up. Oh yeah and dont rotate the crank at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the tip. I definitely have to be careful because I know nothing about firing orders & timing:pray:
 

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Thanks for the tip. I definitely have to be careful because I know nothing about firing orders & timing:pray:
Well, I bet everyone is exhausted explaining this, but I just learned this myself so im happy to explain.


The job requires basic tools: 5/8 socket, 9/16 wrench and socekt maybe a small extender, timing light ( not used until after reassembled ) a marker...etc


1.) Find TDC ( top dead center )

- Locate the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, and mark it with white out along the line (should be a slit)
- Pull # 1 spark plug with a deep socket
- Stuff some clean shop rag in the spark plug hole (not too far in, just enough to jam the hole tightly)
- Crank the engine in "bursts" until the rag "pops" out ( this should bring you near TDC)
- **** remove the negative terminal on the battery
- rotate the harmonic balancer with I think 9/16 socket, extender and ratcher until the timing mark on balancer lines up with the timing tab
- You should be at TDC now

2.) Remove the spark plug wires off the distributor cap
3.) Remove the distributor cap ( 4 spring loaded screws )
4.) Note the location of the rotor

- At this point I see where the rotor lined up with the cap by putting the cap back ontop the distributor base and noting wich terminal it hits at TDC.

5.) mark everything, rotor location, distributor base location, mark a line onto the manifold.
6.) remove hold down clamp with 9/16 wrench and remove distrbutor

7.) distributor rotor will rotate slightly as you pull the dist up. Just return the rotor to its original location and tape it in place. Store in a safe location. I would look down into the engine block and not the position of oil pump drive slot.

8.) Remove manifold, brackets, carb etc. Keep bolts labeled in plastic baggies. Dont lose the springs, cotter pins, etc.

9.) Remove old manifold gasket. Clean surface with razor blade and alcohol. A shop vac with the small snorkel works great. Make sure nothing significant falls in the block.

10.) Give the internals a visual inspection then let us know when youre ready to install....im tired :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Apparently I'm going to need some new fuel filter and vacuum lines to go with the edelbrock carb:mad: and maybe some sort of brackets.
 

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Apparently I'm going to need some new fuel filter and vacuum lines to go with the edelbrock carb:mad: and maybe some sort of brackets.
I would check with a local parts store that carries after market like advance auto parts for the dual fuel inlet line. As for the rest of the hoses, just get some hose by the foot from the parts store and some clamps. Try your best to match the same size hoses with the original. bring them with you. What kind of brackets do you need? Summit might have them
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The ¨bracket¨ is the trans kick down stud, I bought that already. I bought the fuel filter I'm going to need too.

I'm think I made a mistake though. I special ordered the Edelbrock 3701 Intake manifold. I think it is a spread bore and I don't know what my Carb is.:confused: My carb is an Edelbrock 1406.
 
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