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I cant get the god #%^@ distributor to drop all the way back down. I got it marked and have tried 2 teeth in each direction and wiggling the rotor back and forth and it just wont drop. I guess I need to find a super long screw driver and check and see if the oil pump drive shaft is leaning any. When I built the engine I played hell getting the distributor to drop all the way down. It was snug when I pulled it up and out.


Sorry just had to vent. :mad:
 

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It's been awhile since I've done this. However, if my recollection is correct...it's important that you mesh the distributor gear with the gear on the camshaft for purposes of initital timing.

Once that's done, go ahead and turn the engine over (with the ignition OFF) and the distributor will "drop down" once the end of the distributor shaft and the drive shaft on the oil pump merge or fit into one another.

Again...getting the oil pump and distributor to marry up will occur...all you have to do is rotate the engine and it will happen. What's critical is the initial distributor/camshaft setting. Once that's done the rest is easy and the distributor will "drop down" on its own.

Hope this helps.
 

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Took 3 hours to get the distributor to drop down. Ended up being 1 tooth off once it finally went down. Decided to say screw it and will just re time it the way it is. If this is not a good idea somebody let me know. It is my understanding you can pretty much drop a dizzy any way it falls as long as you have enough room to rotate the housing to set the timing. Is that correct? I can turn this mallory a full 360 because it has no canister. It is an older internal mechanical advance dizzy.
 

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Once the distributor is in and meshed with the cam you need to bump the engine around to align the oil pump shaft or use a long flat screwdrive to turn it to the same position as the distributor. Make sure you hold the distributor in (down) while doing this or it will pop up and out.
 

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Took 3 hours to get the distributor to drop down. Ended up being 1 tooth off once it finally went down. Decided to say screw it and will just re time it the way it is. If this is not a good idea somebody let me know. It is my understanding you can pretty much drop a dizzy any way it falls as long as you have enough room to rotate the housing to set the timing. Is that correct? I can turn this mallory a full 360 because it has no canister. It is an older internal mechanical advance dizzy.
It sounds like this is the first time you ever tried to re-install a distributor?

It doesn't really matter but I always put the distributor in the correct way (not one tooth off). At least the cap is in the correct position then. Plus it won't look like you're an amateur.

Very rarely will the distributor drop right back in on the oil pump driveshaft. All you do then is bump the engine over with the starter and it will eventually find the oil pump driveshaft and drop down in on it's own. You might have to go a revolution or so.

I don't even waste my time trying to line-up the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver. Waste of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like this is the first time you ever tried to re-install a distributor?

It doesn't really matter but I always put the distributor in the correct way (not one tooth off). At least the cap is in the correct position then. Plus it won't look like you're an amateur.

Very rarely will it drop right back in on the oil pump driveshaft. All you do then is bump the engine over with the starter and it will eventually find the oil pump driveshaft and drop down down in on it's own.

I don't even waste my time trying to line-up the oil pump driveshaft. Waste of time.
This is the first time a dizzy has given me a fit and I didnt know that trick about bumping the starter. Now I will know what to do in the future! I just packed it up for the day. I will finish up tomorrow. Just have some odds and ends to put back together and do the new fuel setup for the dual carbs. Then I can fire it up and get the dizzy set and start tuning. OH BOY!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alrighty guys a question. Got her fired up and she started right up. Right away I noticed the idle was jumping around. It acts almost as if it has a vacuum leak.

Here is what I did

Gasket stuck to front carb looked good so I reused it
New gasket for rear carb
Home made gasket for the top plenum to bottom runners on the weiand tunnel ram. Used felpro gasket material. Anybody know if carb cleaner will discolor powder coating or do any damage to it?

2 other issues. There is no place on the carbs or intake to run the vacuum hose to for the TH350 and no place for the pcv to hook to. I am kind of stumped on what to do about this.
 

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YES, carb cleaner can sometimes hurt powder coatings.
WD-40 is a good alternative. As is plain water while it's running. Just use a mist. A stethoscope is nice to use as well.:yes:

As for the vacuum port, you can put a pair of plain 1" spacers under the carbs (one under each) and drill and tap the rear one for a fitting or you can drill and tap the intake anywhere on the top plenum as well :yes: but since it's already powder coated and installed I doubt you'll want to start drilling on it.:no:
 

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YES, carb cleaner can sometimes hurt powder coatings.
WD-40 is a good alternative. As is plain water while it's running. Just use a mist. A stethoscope is nice to use as well.:yes:

As for the vacuum port, you can put a pair of plain 1" spacers under the carbs (one under each) and drill and tap the rear one for a fitting or you can drill and tap the intake anywhere on the top plenum as well :yes: but since it's already powder coated and installed I doubt you'll want to start drilling on it.:no:


Thanks D-Man those are very good suggestions!
 
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