Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I turn the key switch the engine cranks but no spark. jumpered the B+ to Bat terminal on Distributor, it starts. I suspect the ignition switch on the column is bad. shopped a few parts stores for one. the only ones I can find have the plug terminals facing up. I need one with the plug terminals facing toward the passengers side. I think as there is no room above the column for the plug and wire.
Any help or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,862 Posts
Have you tried a Chevrolet dealership.

Local dealer had a complete switch and 2 coded keys for my 68.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
In my '74 the key , thru a sector gear and rod, pushes the switch mounted on the column behind the cluster, provides B+ to the Bat side of the distributor. I'm pretty sure I need a switch 'cause first position on the switch provided ignition further on,in the key rotation, it engages the starter. every once in a while when I let off the starter and let the key return to the run position I sometimes get a little "kick" as if the distributor got a little tickle of voltage. It's pretty funky in general and I'm sure the ignition lock was replaced at some time before I fot the monster.
I'm really looking for some help on locating a switch that will fit. Last time I asked a local dealer he laughed at me. Florida, nobody fixes anything the blue hairs just get a new one.
the switch is listed everywhere the same with the terminals out the top not the side as I need them.
Really need ehlp to find the correct switch. Guess I'll look at the classified.
Thanks guys
 

·
Registered
1974 Nova, 1977 Nova
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
the switch is listed everywhere the same with the terminals out the top not the side as I need them.
Really need ehlp to find the correct switch.
There are 2 different ignition switches for 74.

AC Delco #D1404B, Standard Motor Products #US95, or the equivalent fits cars WITHOUT tilt steering columns.

AC Delco #D1405B, Standard Motor Products #US105, or the equivalent fits cars WITH tilt steering columns.

The reason for 2 different switches is because the sector gear & rack in non-tilt columns pushes the linkage rod downward (toward the switch) when the lock cylinder is turned clockwise. While the tilt column is just the opposite, it pulls on the linkage rod when the lock cylinder is turned clockwise.

Both tilt & non-tilt switches use the same electrical connectors and have their terminals pointing off toward the passenger side. Although some pics might show the switch sitting on it's side with the terminals facing upward instead of showing it positioned as it would be mounted to the column.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yup, got the difference 'tween tilt and not. I've been buying the non tilt. I was considering removing the old switch to compare it as I went to the store, but the car is my daily driver.
I've been doing this as I always do. Fix what's needed to keep it on the road and adding some improvements/ restorations as I go. got it from the front bumper to the dash repaired worn out front end, added power brakes repaired coolant leaks, dropped and coated the tank got all the lights working. In the dash now, cleaning up years of engineered wiring, repainting it, new pad and adding the stock A/C ductwork and vents 'till I can get a vintage air unit to install. Moving toward the interior redo.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
6,596 Posts
I turn the key switch the engine cranks but no spark.
Any help or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks:
I wonder if it's an ignition switch problem.

Here's my thinking. Below is how the ignition coil should be wired on your car.



In this diagram you have a pink wire off of the ignition switch that goes to the positive side of the ignition coil and then another wire off of the positive side of the ignition coil to the starter solenoid (which on the starter solenoid is not the "S" terminal but the "I" terminal).

When the ignition key is in the run position or the crank position, 12V gets sent out of the pink wire at the ignition switch. When the key is in the crank position and the starter is operating to crank over the motor, a terminal on the starter solenoid then sends 12V also to the coil.

With you not getting spark in the crank position, then you are loosing voltage from two different points, the ignition switch and the output from the starter solenoid.

If the ignition switch did not output 12V on the pink wire to the coils positive post, by cranking over the motor the positive side of the ignition coil should be getting 12V from the starter solenoid and then this should create a spark.

It's possible you may have more than one issue in that maybe the coil is not getting 12V from the starter solenoid and the car before was only getting 12V from the ignition switch to where if that is the case, now the ignition switch could be faulty. If there was no connection between the starter solenoid and the coil before and it was running off of the pink wire, then if the switch were to test good it could be a connection issue in the area such as the bulkhead connector.

Time to get out a meter and see what is actually going on or you can throw parts at it and maybe get it working that way.

Jim
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top