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Discussion Starter #1
Removed 194 engine and installed 230 engine. I have very little electrical experience so bear with me....:(

I fortunately have 2 novas, same motor. So I am replicating exactly the remove and replace process. After I installed the engine and connected the wiring I cannot get the engine to fire. I pulled the coil wire off the distributor and grounded it... nothing:eek: This is the troubleshooting I've done so far

Using my 67 as a model (it runs fine, same motor)
I am using a test light trying to find where the loss of current went so basically I connect the test light to pos or neg on battery and see if light turns on or not.

67 Nova
key OFF>
Neg side of battery to + or - on coil < no light >
Pos side of battery to + or - on coil < light comes on >
key ON>
Neg side of battery to + lo glow
Neg side of battery to - nothing
Pos side of battery to + low glow
Pos side of battery to - bright light

64 Nova
Neg side of battery to + or - <no light>
Pos side of battery to + or - < light comes on>
so far everything is the same as 67
no KEY ON
Neg side of battery to + or - bright light
Pos side of battery to + or - no light

I replaced the coil, no change... Any ideas ? I'll even make it interesting:D If you are right I'll paypal you $20.:eek:
 

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Give test light a good ground and check for positive at coil + side for voltage with key in run position. Has to see voltage at + side of coil when key is on.
 

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Also must have 12 vlts when the key is in the start position.
That would be the yellow wire coming off the starter and going to the coil + side, 12 volts when cranking. :yes:
 

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Get a test cable (wire with aligator clips on each side) and run the test cable from the Pos battery terminal to the + side of the coil. Crank it and see if it starts. If it doesnt start you have a bad coil or bad distributor. If it does start then ignition wiring is bad.

almost forgot...if it starts you need to pull the test cable to shut it off.
 

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Disconnect the condenser and measure across it with an ohm meter. It should read "open" , something like 100K Ohm or more. If it is shorted, you will not get any spark. If you don't have a ohm meter, disconnect the condenser lead (leave the can part of the condenser grounded) connect your test light between the battery + and the condenser lead. If it lights up, the condenser is shorted and needs to be replaced. Did I win the $20:rolleyes:
 

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Disconnect the condenser and measure across it with an ohm meter. It should read "open" , something like 100K Ohm or more. If it is shorted, you will not get any spark. If you don't have a ohm meter, disconnect the condenser lead (leave the can part of the condenser grounded) connect your test light between the battery + and the condenser lead. If it lights up, the condenser is shorted and needs to be replaced. Did I win the $20:rolleyes:
First place I would go to when no spark(with point type dist.) is present and might just sand the points only, but I was assuming this ran until after he installed it is why I was thinking of his wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry guys. Yes it runs now. I found the problem, embarrassingly I was using a coil wire that I removed the carbon from (cheap attempt at a theft aversion ) i realized it after i connected a plug wire to the coil and it worked. ... In my defense I've been working alot of overtime and not getting much sleep. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll finish this car someday.

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