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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, the 194 in my wagon has been running like champ up until a couple weeks ago, when it started bogging/dying under heavy throttle. Over the past few years I've replaced the fuel tank, filter and pump, installed Flame Thrower coil and Pertronix ignition and have replace rubber portions of fuel line recently.
It starts to happen once the car is warmed up a bit and if I feather the gas I can keep it running (also throwing it in neutral helps). If it dies it will restart fairly easily the first time but if it happens again it will take a long time before I can get it to fire (acts like its out of gas). If I dump gas down the carb it will run a few seconds then die.
The carbs is an old 70's mono jet that I'll be sending to an old timer to check out and possibly rebuild or replace this week. Just wondering if anyone had any other suggestions or if I'm on the right track. My distributor and vacuum advance are old, so is my steel fuel line. Checked timing and seemed fine. I guess thats about everything, thanks in advance. Pun intended
 

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I had an issue with my monojet on my 230 and turned out to be a vacuum leak on the base gasket.
The carb has a notch in the baseplate and after looking at the base gasket very closely I could see a discolored area that matched up with this notch.
I bought a new gasket and it did not fit very well so I bought some gasket material and made my own.





From what I remember I had to feather the gas pedal down some and then let off and push it down some more to get the revs up.

I think too I also used some carb cleaner and spayed it around the base of the carb and the engine stumbled leading me to the gasket leak.

I know too on mine I can see the vacuum advance move when I rev the engine and also like now how much better the engine runs by advancing the timing a few degree's over the factory setting.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had an issue with my monojet on my 230 and turned out to be a vacuum leak on the base gasket.
The carb has a notch in the baseplate and after looking at the base gasket very closely I could see a discolored area that matched up with this notch.
I bought a new gasket and it did not fit very well so I bought some gasket material and made my own.





From what I remember I had to feather the gas pedal down some and then let off and push it down some more to get the revs up.

I think too I also used some carb cleaner and spayed it around the base of the carb and the engine stumbled leading me to the gasket leak.

I know too on mine I can see the vacuum advance move when I rev the engine and also like now how much better the engine runs by advancing the timing a few degree's over the factory setting.

Jim
Thanks for the reply. I tried spraying carb cleaner along the base as well as the intake manifold and didn't notice any change, the gasket is old though,
 

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My initial thoughts were to check the distributor, especially if you are still using old points style.

However, when you mentioned it would start when pouring gas down the carb, I backed off on that.

Fuel filter? fuel pump? vapor lock?

Electric fuel pump usually cures issues of fuel delivery and vapor lock.
 

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67 4 door, 65 wagon (in pieces)
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Does it do this when you're already moving or just from a standing stop?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My initial thoughts were to check the distributor, especially if you are still using old points style.

However, when you mentioned it would start when pouring gas down the carb, I backed off on that.

Fuel filter? fuel pump? vapor lock?

Electric fuel pump usually cures issues of fuel delivery and vapor lock.
I've changed the file filter, pump and rubber sections within the past couple years. Vapor lock seems like it may be the culprit but it never had issues with it before, and now its happening all the time.
 

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Carb jets gunked up? Might need a cleaning or rebuild. Doesn’t seem like a vacuum issue but I would still put a vacuum pump on it to make sure. Vapor lock could be another issue if the vent in your new tank is clogged. Not familiar enough with that engine. Does it have a fuel return line?

What does it do when you floor it in park? Any hesitation?
 

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choker

I understand you thought it may be vapor lock as the problem. So what was your solution to the problem? I ask because I'm just getting to know my new project with 194 and it dies when i put it in gear. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Sounds like an accelerator pump. Rebuild the carb and replace the points and condenser as suggested above.
 

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Throwing out what I went through is when I first got my 68 after going from sitting years, I was on the highway and got up to speed but could not accelerate but then once I let off the gas I could do 60.

I had a feeling the fuel filter was getting clogged and sure enough it was.The filter was one of the clay styles and after I back flushed it, put it back in it takes a while before junk gets built up on it again slowly restricting fuel delivery.

I have about every year had to take the filter out on mine, backwash it and put it back in and I try to do this before I'm out in the middle of nowhere without tools.

I know you have put in a new tank, filter, fuel pump, and so on and I also had a buddy that when he pushed a new rubber fuel line onto a steel tube line with a sharp edge, the tube shaved off a flap of the inside of the rubber line and it partially blocked the overall diameter of the line restricting flow. He also found that and by blowing air back towards the tank on the disconnected fuel lines some more junk came out. It was all new too.

Even though you have new, maybe there was some junk in the lines, the tank, or wherever and not it's possibly clogged the filter or has built up and dammed itself inside of a tube constricting things.

The junk that was in mine:





Jim
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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My question : do u still have the 'choke rod hooked up' .... does it appear to be working ? also, those old 1bbl's have a filter inside the carb -- where u connect the fuel line. If you remove that "fitting" be careful -- I cracked my carb there when checking my filter. (then fuel would drip /leak out & onto that hot exhaust manifold .... ruined that carb). For that choke rod -- I did un-hooked mine , and installed a choke cable. Then, I left everything in place (just "tie-rapped that choke rod" to the side), and ran that way for years ----- I DID find a very good 1bbl stock carb , that worked good for 10 plus years.
check your intake/exhaust manifold bolts to the engine .

#1


You can see that 'choke rod' , still in place ... and how I hooked up a manual choke cable ( the fitting on the carb - where the cable is hooked to, was off my other 1bbl carb, and the homemade cable bracket mounted with a carb screw. very simple -- all that stuff IS gone now.
Then look at the "rubber fuel hose connection - where the two hose clamps are -- that is where the "brass-like fuel filter & gasket" is -- inside your carb.
For the manual choke to work ..... hold your gas pedal down ..... pull out the choke cable .... release the gas pedal .... that action puts on
"the fast idle step - for starting .... then, just 'bleep the throttle' to release the fast idle, after your engine warms-up.

#2


My current set -up ........ Runs Great . (Offy intake & Holley 390).

Let us know what happens ......
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Probably a long shot, but are you sure your exhaust is flowing freely? If something came loose in a muffler, it may exhibit loss of power as flow attempts to increase.
Good question --
on my exhaust manifold --- it has that "butter-fly valve" .
Make sure yours is moving (opening) and not plugging / choking off your exhaust.

thanks, rquad


(sshamu --- did you see about the "Phoenix BBQ - November 10th)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all of the replies! I ended up having the old monojet carb rebuilt and installed it, turned the engine over a bunch of times and nothing. Disconnected fuel line before carb, tried again and no fuel. Disconnect relatively new fuel pump and can tell right away its not functioning. I looked inside to see that the outlet valve came off and was jamming the pump. So I guess, the lesson here is that just because a part is less than a couple years old, doesn't mean it can't or won't fail on you.
 

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