Chevy Nova Forum banner
801 - 820 of 848 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
Just bolt the bracket on they way they
June 2,2022

So good news / bad news.
I was able to muscle the lines out of the way and change the hole the exhaust is hung from to get the shock relocation brackets up and into place. Not having to cut exhaust is good in my book along with the lines. Here’s photos

View attachment 439452 View attachment 439453 View attachment 439454


The bad news. Holes no line up. My hope was if I could at least get it all bolted up I could scribe where it needed welded, grind everything and get it prepped and get a welder here to do it.

also it really looks like it will be a bit of a tight fit with all of the evap stuff in place.

Choices I have now are:
-cover the car in gasoline and say to hell with trying to have a cool car, I suck at this stuff and I’m just causing myself a ton of grief

-Say screw relocating the shocks, twiddle my thumbs until my bushings come in and reassemble everything with staggered shocks.

-Try calling the welder yet again and see if I can get him here to do it.

Either way I’m kind of dead in the water at the moment so I have time to think.
I'd bolt those bad boys in there and call it a day. Die grind out the holes that don't line up and use a good grade 8 washer. The shocks were originally bolted in anyway and the leaf's are what hold the car up, not like you're mounting coil overs to the bracket.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #805 · (Edited)
@xxdabroxx if i’m dropping the fuel tank I was entertaining doing the fuel cell at this point. I have seen some threads where people weld crap in the trunk to make the floor level but mine looks pretty reasonable. There’s plenty of room where it’s flat for a cell, Now if I go that way i need to figure out what to go with and how big etc don’t even know what the sump is all about either

Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive lighting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
Another thing to consider when going to a trunk mounted fuel cell is a firewall at the back seat. NHRA requires it and it's a good idea.

Personally I like the idea of a rear sump on a fuel cell but I don't think it's necessary. IMO it looks cleaner when the cell drops through the floor so the lines are outside the trunk. I think mine is between 12-15 gallons, I'm not exactly sure. They also need a rollover valve in the top of the cell with a vent through the floor.

@kimmer71 might have some fuel cell thoughts and suggestions as he's gone through it more recently.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #807 · (Edited)
I'm thinking that I can probably plop a cell in the middle where the floor is flat. I actually read that if you have an aluminum fuel cell that the cell walls qualify as a "firewall" but that might be a real grey area. I wouldn't expect that installing a piece of aluminum or something where the back seats used to be should be that big of a deal to do.

Was looking at something along these lines: Pro Series 16 Gallon Fuel Cell (rhodesracecars.com)
But I'm not sure what the bottom looks like with the sump. If I'm guessing, I'm thinking if I were to look at that cell from the bottom that the sump area would cause the cell to not sit flat on a flat surface. I would expect that I'd have to cut out a section of the trunk pan where the cell sits for the sump to protrude through the bottom of the trunk. A couple of straps and a drill and we should be in business.

also...sump cover?
 

·
Registered
1974 Nova SS
Joined
·
1,431 Posts
It was a lot of work to do the fuel cell for my project. I'm cheap so I made life more difficult for myself in that regard but I had a somewhat unusual situation because I wanted to use an in-tank pump. If I had to do it again, I would seriously consider spending the $ on a nice ATL cell enclosed in steel. That would make the project so much easier. You would still need to cut out a big section of your trunk floor and there would be some fabrication involved. I anticipate fueling through the trunk will be a bit of a PITA. I'm hoping to install an electronic trunk release to make it tolerable. You thinking of doing this to free up some space for the shocks?

Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Composite material Metal
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #809 ·
@kimmer71 for me it’s kind of another step towards where I want the car to be eventually. At this juncture I need to relocate the shocks and this is going to require welding and…I’m a little uncomfortable doing it near gas lines etc. So i’m going to drop the tank and it’s sort of a “do i really want to drop the tank just to put it back up” sort of deal when I know eventually I’ll be going the direction of the fuel cell. It’s the “scope creep”. Absolutely nothing forcing me to do this right now.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #811 ·
August 25th, 2022
This project year has kind of sucked. Work has really been kicking my butt. I've got a younger dude who reports to me. He is into Jeeps and recently bought a Wrangler. I was telling him that with project cars and life, it boils down to money, skills and desire. You may have the desire but not the skills or money, which is pretty much where he's at. You may have the money and skills but lack the desire, which is where I find myself after working all day and dealing with all the crap that's on my mind.

Tonight the plan is to pull the tank and get the shock relocation kit in place and measure for new shocks. All depending on what I decide to run for rear shocks, I'm anticipating forking out upwards of $500 for them. Oh, I also am going to have to probably reset my jackstands because the rear has to get unbolted from the leafs to flip everything.

If I don't get to it tonight, my sons are coming up for a visit tomorrow night and there's a high probability I can con them into helping and hopefully teaching them a few things along the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
A lot of truth in your first paragraph. It's like the good/ fast/ cheap triangle, pick any two...

FWIW, my QA1 shocks are an oily mess already. At least the rears are, the fronts are fine. I really need to get in touch with them and see if they'll fix them but I really don't want to pull them off the car.

I think if the Calvert shocks you have fit I'd run them for a while. I've heard good things about Viking shocks, but I didn't like their website so I went with QA1. For big money I think Menscer shocks are where it's at but that's a full blown custom race deal. I think AFCO is a good middle ground between Menscer and Viking/ QA1.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #813 ·
Thank you for the feedback on the QA1's. I was actually going to run them but based on your feedback, I will seek alternatives. The calvert's I have are T-BAR on top and I don't think the shock relocation accepts t-bar, but I'll double check it. I think it's setup for stud and eyelet.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #815 ·
Can you press out the bar?
I'll check into it. I haven't really eyeballed any of the stuff much. Since I last went to try to slap a brake caliper on and realized I had more work ahead, I've been a bit turned off. I'm accepting the reality that she's probably not going to see any time on the road this year which is discouraging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
I'll check into it. I haven't really eyeballed any of the stuff much. Since I last went to try to slap a brake caliper on and realized I had more work ahead, I've been a bit turned off. I'm accepting the reality that she's probably not going to see any time on the road this year which is discouraging.
It sucks the weather gets so bad where you're at. For me the winter is almost better for cruising the car, at least while the sun is out. Too darn hot with no AC in the summer, spring and fall are short around here. Our winters are pretty dry and not super cold during the day.
 

·
Premium Member
1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
Joined
·
839 Posts
Discussion Starter · #818 ·
Aug 25, 2022
Sometimes it’s really a joy working on old cars. Really hot and humid and every time I’m outside working on the car, the sweat just beads up on me.

Anyhow, the joy part…had the tank out in no more than 30 minutes, it may have been closer to 15.

Automotive tire Vehicle Plant Automotive lighting Road surface


I did this because I am going to weld the shock relocation kit in myself, or at least give it a try…and I really didn’t know how sound this tank was and feel much better about welding when it’s a little further away.

Chief concern I have with the welding actually is that my garage doesn’t have electricity so it’s extension cords and when I crank this machine up, it seems like it’s struggling to get the amps it needs. Maybe a thicker extension cord, I’m unsure.
 

·
Registered
1967 Nova SS
Joined
·
1,908 Posts
Power Supply for welder is crucial. Others with more application experience may chime in but I would suggest
6 gauge / 50 amp wire. I went to electrical supply vendor and bought the wire and plugs and made up one for my welder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
917 Posts
Making your own cord is a good option. I've made a big cord for my table saw with a metal box and outlet on one end with a plug on the other. For your 120v welder I'd think a good heavy duty cord should be good, get the biggest one you're willing to buy. They always come in handy at some point later anyway.
 
801 - 820 of 848 Posts
Top