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Nice, moving the shocks in now is a good idea and should make room for more tire. I used the calvert supplied shock mounts and just turned them to the inside of the car with our DIY upper shock mount.

Make sure to give your welder good shiny metal anywhere he's going to need to weld, save some $ from him having to clean anything up.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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Discussion Starter · #662 ·
@xxdabroxx getting the performance online kit. I'm a little fuzzy on how the shock mounts and calvert stuff comes together but I'm sure I'll figure it out and harass people for photos and such. I mean, I'm pretty sure the stuff I have from Calvert is going to replace what is currently bolted up on the rear end. I'm just not sure how it all fits together on the new rear and now with introducing the shock changes how that's going to work out but I'm sure I can figure it out.
 

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IIRC you have a standard saddle/ spring perch on your new 9" so you'll dump all the factory stuff and just face the calvert bottom plates with the shock mounts inboard. Should be very similar to my setup. If you need pictures let me know, I have quite a few stored on my google photos that are easy to upload here.

Try and get your shocks to mount behind the axle if you can. You should get better response out of them that way. The rear of the axle rotates downward so the shocks travel farther mounted behind the axle. You want to let your shocks do as much work as possible to control the axle movement. When they're mounted in front of the axle and it separates (and rotates) the shock doesn't get to travel as far and can't control the movement as well.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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Discussion Starter · #664 · (Edited)
@xxdabroxx I saved a few photos of your rear suspension some time ago...not sure where they are now but that's exactly why I saved them, for reference for my car. If you have more photos on google drive you can either DM me or I can shoot you my email / phone or whatever to pull them up. Weather is good today (May 10th, 2022) and my hope is that I can get some work done after I finish up the daily grind of the day job.

Try and get your shocks to mount behind the axle if you can. You should get better response out of them that way. The rear of the axle rotates downward so the shocks travel farther mounted behind the axle. You want to let your shocks do as much work as possible to control the axle movement. When they're mounted in front of the axle and it separates (and rotates) the shock doesn't get to travel as far and can't control the movement as well.
One other, albeit minor concern I have is on SS396RAT's videos he ran the Calvert setup but I don't recall which shocks he had. When he did the shock relocation kit, he used Performance Online's shocks and then I think he ended up buying a different pair of calvert shocks. Apparently with setting them inboard that the length is different. I'm not sure if it's going to be much of a big deal at this juncture but I'm really hoping I can use the shocks that I have (fresh calverts). I guess in a worst case scenario I just have to buy some new shocks or maybe Calvert will let me exchange them since I haven't actually used these.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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Discussion Starter · #665 ·
May 10th, 2022
Hoping that I might be able to do some wrenching this evening after work. Received shipment notification from Performance Online and I'm looking at the 17th for the delivery date of the shock relocation kit.
Barring any crazy sort of problem, I would expect that I have a couple of hours at most to get the entire rear and suspension out of the car at this point. It really should be pretty straight forward.
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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Discussion Starter · #666 ·
May 10, 2022
Got upper shocks undone and when I look at the shackles on the rear of the leaf springs I’m really thinking that because of the direction of the bolt on these that i’m going to have to drop the tank to facilitate the removal.

The alternative might be to sawzall. Actually the more i look at this the more i like sawzall. Anyone disagree?

Minor other problem is the rear brake line where it meets the rubber hose deal is stripped. These lines in here look like they could possibly be original. They are ribbed….that’s going to suck…like really but it’ll get done.

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Remove the top bolt don't even bother with the bottom one unless you're re-using the stock shackles. You'll likely want some sort of more solid bushing for the rear. The rubber ones can bind and make your suspension not work as freely. I can't remember what all is available for the rear but some kind of poly or delrin would likely be best. At minimum dont clamp the bolts down super tight, just snug with loctite and lock nuts.

That brake line is going to suck likely to involve butchery and vice grips. You might be able to cut it and re-flare it if it's FUBAR, I'd think you could rent a flaring tool from an auto parts store or get one online for pretty cheap. Might save you from completely redoing the brakes. If you do go with all new, Tim McCamis race cars has a killer looking kit I think I'm going to try when we go to disc brakes all around. Brake Line Kit
 

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1972 6 Cylinder Dragster :)
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Discussion Starter · #668 ·
with the ribbing on the lines I seriously doubt whether it can be reflared unless i can pull that ribbing off.

For the shackles, I’m going to look at it again but I’m really feeling like dropping the tank is going to give me more room on the shackle bolts, I should have all brand new everything from calvert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #669 ·
May 11th, 2022
I’m almost embarrassed how slow going things are for anyone who wants to see major upgrades quickly. I’m doing my best to juggle my GF’s feelings about working on the Nova…she may be jealous.

So it was a bit of a pain in the butthole but I decided against dropping the gas tank. It was slow going though and @xxdabroxx I think I had to take the lower shackle bolt out also to be able to get these off. A few photos. A special thanks to whomever routed the exhaust in such a way to cause this to be more of a pain than it needed to be.

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Tomorrow I will have more time to work on this and I should have it all disassembled. A question for anyone who can provide some insight:

BUSHINGS that are on either side of the frame rail for the top shackle…what is the story with these guys? I’m figuring now would be an ideal time to replace them and before I got the shackles off I actually thought the bushings were part of the shackles…
I have a complete energy suspension kit maybe those are included.
 

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They should be included if you have the full kit for the rear. I wasn't too impressed with the ES kit. The leaf bushings are narrower than stock, so I had to put some big washers in to get things to tighten up like they're supposed to. The frame bushings I had to sand them down to get them in (tried freezing them, that didn't help at all).

I found that a motorcycle jack works great for taking the tank out. I was able to do it without by myself before, but I never had much gas in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #672 ·
They should be included if you have the full kit for the rear. I wasn't too impressed with the ES kit. The leaf bushings are narrower than stock, so I had to put some big washers in to get things to tighten up like they're supposed to. The frame bushings I had to sand them down to get them in (tried freezing them, that didn't help at all).

I found that a motorcycle jack works great for taking the tank out. I was able to do it without by myself before, but I never had much gas in the tank.
I’ve got a calvert rear suspension going in and I will need to eyeball what is included. I was referring just to those bushings that were left on the rear frame section where the shackle bolts up: I wasn’t sure if that’s considered a bushing or part of the suspension shackles or whatever
 

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Discussion Starter · #674 ·
May 12, 2022
time to undo the 3 bolts per side to undo the leaf pockets. well 5/6 went without issue and now i’m about to lose my cool because I’ve just spent the last hour with various tools stuck in the hole trying to get it to catch and my patience is wearing extremely thin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #677 ·
May (Friday the 13th), 2022
If it weren't for that single broken j-clip on the drivers side, removing the entire rear end and suspension would have been pretty much a cakewalk. Everything moved pretty easily. Underneath the car looks really quite clean for a car of this era. I do notice some major bits of bondo that weren't even sanded at the bottom of the quarters but besides for that I do not see any blow through in the floor except for one small little quarter-sized area in the trunk.

The only thing I'm kind of kicking myself over is my jack stand placement. I did struggle a little getting the rear out from under the car because the front leaf hangers stick inboard a little and they were hanging up on the stands. Being that I used the rear-end to lift to the car, if I wanted to change something at this juncture I'd have to come up with some way of lifting the car to reposition the jacks. Fingers crossed that won't be necessary.

I still have some clean up and prep work to do before I'm going to start the installation. I have that bolt that I had to cut off lodged in the broken j-clip and I also have another j-clip that I lost in one of the pockets that I should probably try to fish out but it will at least need to be replaced (I have plenty j-clips). I also need to see what I can do about the steel line where the fitting started to slip. I am definitely going to need to bend some brake line and acquire a new rubber line for the rear end. Side note: I cut the rubber hose to the rear end to avoid screwing with the fitting and surprisingly it didn't leak any fluid. Maybe because the car rear is up higher than the master but I'm not sure. The hose was quite ratty anyways and I did not see any harm in cutting it but it would not have been my first choice.

Shock relocation kit should be here by Monday and eyeballing everything it looks like my exhaust may be in the way. I also need to look at my subframe connectors and I'm really hoping that my jack placement didn't screw me. Need some kitty litter for my transmission fluid mess. I'm thinking shock relocation, subframe connectors, peripheral stuff on the Ford 9" like brake lines, calipers etc. get all of that put together and then I'm figuring I'll hang the leaf springs and then later work to muscle the rear up and over them. I'm not sure if the smarter approach would be to put the leafs onto the rear and try to get the whole thing up in one shot. TBD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #679 ·
I put the leafs in the front pocket and worked the rear over them. then you can bolt one leaf at a time to the diff. once the diff is bolted to the springs you can jack the whole assembly up with the diff and get your shackles in place.
That's kind of how I was thinking of doing it. WIth the leaf's hanging down and if I can recruit one of my sons to help at some point, I can just get the rear up and over the leafs and then bolt everything up together!
 
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