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Lookin great so far. I know you probably already know this but the cut in the bell housing for the hyd line really should be smoothed and radiused to prevent any possible chance of stress risers for fracture of that area. Those things are paper thin (as you know) and any way to reduce the stresses is highly advised.
View attachment 424957 View attachment 424958
Looks good. Any concerns about weakness in the bell housing after the cut?

I'm looking at the same kit for my t5... I don't want cut
 

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Looks good. Any concerns about weakness in the bell housing after the cut?

I'm looking at the same kit for my t5... I don't want cut
I would concentrate on de-burring and filing everything round and smooth. Start with a good 3/32" medium-coarse rat-tail file then move up in TPI to a good fine tooth and then burnish with crocus cloth or a fine sandpaper roll or by hand (wrap find sandpaper around a small Phillips-head screwdriver and use that for final de-burring and polishing. (Works great in a pinch!). Other than that, looks great! The big issue is the location of the cut being directly adjacent to one of the trans case ear bolt holes where a ton of stress occurs (and when you catch traction, lots of shock too).
 

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@helofire50 Can you explain this;

" One more note, the pushrod they send is to long. The hex tubing they send is tapped on both ends but doesn't go all the way thru. I got the right measurement and cut the excess out of the middle. I then drilled a hole in both untapped ends and inserted a rod connecting both halves together."

I lost you here.
 

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In all honesty, I would prefer to drill a hole in the housing and install a bulkhead fitting instead of a slot. The hole would be radiused all the way around and would not have any entry for stress risers or fractures. And, you can connect the line on the inside and outside separately so if you need to remove the trans, you can do it with the throwout bearing intact along with the line from the interior to the bearing housing, only disconnecting the one on the outside from the clutch cyl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Lookin great so far. I know you probably already know this but the cut in the bell housing for the hyd line really should be smoothed and radiused to prevent any possible chance of stress risers for fracture of that area. Those things are paper thin (as you know) and any way to reduce the stresses is highly advised.
View attachment 424957 View attachment 424958
Already done. These pictures were taken just after we cut it. I'm never one for not taking advice, that's how we learn. Thanks.
 

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Already done. These pictures were taken just after we cut it. I'm never one for not taking advice, that's how we learn. Thanks.
I figured it was for mock-up. Good deal! can't wait to hear how smooth it is. I have one I may do on my '70 with a Muncie M22 but not sure yet... Mechanical still works pretty well and I don't know if I want to do anything to my stock bell-housing. I do have a Lakewood rig showing up soon and I think they're set up for the hyd lines so I would be totally set.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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SoCalNova . . . . . . . Why wouldn't this set - up work ; for both "throw out bearing too master cyl." .
AND for use as the "throw out bearing - bleed line" .
In other words - - - use a 'flex hose for each side' of a "Hydraulic Throw out Bearing" ........................

instead of that 'rigid metal line' . . . . . . then, exit out the stock "clutch arm hole , together" .

(I don't know ; just asking . . . . )

(and , my T 5 is using all stock clutch linkage = Z-bar )

jim


Chevy Hydraulic Throwout Bearing Install Kit, GM Release Bearing (speedwaymotors.com)

and this - - together :

Speedway External Bleeder Kit, GM Hydraulic Throwout Bearing 91025610 (speedwaymotors.com)
 

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SoCalNova . . . . . . . Why wouldn't this set - up work ; for both "throw out bearing too master cyl." .
AND for use as the "throw out bearing - bleed line" .
In other words - - - use a 'flex hose for each side' of a "Hydraulic Throw out Bearing" ........................

instead of that 'rigid metal line' . . . . . . then, exit out the stock "clutch arm hole , together" .

(I don't know ; just asking . . . . )

(and , my T 5 is using all stock clutch linkage = Z-bar )

jim


Chevy Hydraulic Throwout Bearing Install Kit, GM Release Bearing (speedwaymotors.com)

and this - - together :

Speedway External Bleeder Kit, GM Hydraulic Throwout Bearing 91025610 (speedwaymotors.com)
I'm actually looking at this. In combination with this: McLeod 1434003 Hydraulic Clutch Coversion Kit. 1962-67 Chevy II

I don't need hard line. But I read the hydraulic bearing needs to stay put - so the bearing needs to be mounted to keep it from rotating.
 
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