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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed Sensa Track shocks all the way around, new ball joints and tie rods up front, global west springs, and polyurithane bushings. But the suspension still feels mushy, do i need a stiffer shock in the front?

the main problem with this is that i have 14x8 rallys with 1/4 inch spacer with 235/60s up front, which i know are too big but its what came on the car when i bought it and the at some point im goin to get 17s and new tires just havent decided on what to go with so for now im just going to get some new tires.

So how is the easiest way to stiffen up the ride? or no matter what i do these tires and spacers combos will rub no matter what?
 

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You will have to change springs, but the ride will be rough. The front needs 3" or maybe 3.5" of back space my 16 X 8's rub at full turn. Go with a 17 X 7 up front and find out if 3.5" will work rather then compensating with stiffer suspension. IMO.

Check this out too!
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107616
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i was plannin on 15x7s in front with 215s and 15x8s in back with 245s.

Are these just soft springs?
 

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Easiest thing to do, and im guilty for doing this for years is install screw in coil spring expanders, they are like $5 for 4, just make sure you get the jumbo rear ones so they dont come out, using 1 per side will give you 1/2" higher and will stiffen the ride a little, using 2 per will give you 3/4-1" higher and is pretty stiff.
 

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A good spring like a Hotchkis won't ride bad at all adn will help alot. Also a bigger sway bar will do wonders. A 235/60 too big? I run a 235/60-15 on the front of my 71, it dosen't rub anywhere, you just need the right backspacing and ride height. I had mine with a 4 inch drop for a minute and they still didn;t rub, had other issues though with that much drop.
 

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A good spring like a Hotchkis won't ride bad at all adn will help alot. Also a bigger sway bar will do wonders. A 235/60 too big? I run a 235/60-15 on the front of my 71, it dosen't rub anywhere, you just need the right backspacing and ride height. I had mine with a 4 inch drop for a minute and they still didn;t rub, had other issues though with that much drop.
I agree! Sway bar will be the biggest seat of your pants improvement as far as that mushy feel. The right spring rate/shock valvingcombination will make the car more predictable.

If you drop it just make sure that you relocate the tierod ends so that you eliminate as much bumpsteer as you can.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Easiest thing to do, and im guilty for doing this for years is install screw in coil spring expanders, they are like $5 for 4, just make sure you get the jumbo rear ones so they dont come out, using 1 per side will give you 1/2" higher and will stiffen the ride a little, using 2 per will give you 3/4-1" higher and is pretty stiff.
Do you know where i can buy these at? I also just ordered the Hotchkis sway bar kit, front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i have not done the body to frame bushings yet. i have them but i ran out of time on the lift when i had it all apart and working on it.
 

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Did I read Sensatrac shocks and Global West springs correctly? Are you feeling a jittery movement when going over bumps. Global West road racing springs are comperable to Hotchkis springs. You need a lot more shock to control that spring. If you haven't installed the 1.125 or 1 inch bar, that would be a good idea.

A 235/45-17 tire on an 8 inch rim should fit fine in your car with stock spindles.
 

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Easiest thing to do, and im guilty for doing this for years is install screw in coil spring expanders, they are like $5 for 4, just make sure you get the jumbo rear ones so they dont come out, using 1 per side will give you 1/2" higher and will stiffen the ride a little, using 2 per will give you 3/4-1" higher and is pretty stiff.
I might add that this is a cheap backyard fix as a last ditch effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah i plan on getting the extenders only untill i decide on what to do suspension and tire wise.
 

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Which GW springs do you have? Are the the 550lbs 2 inch lowering springs? If so, go with a Bilstein, Koni, Edelbrock, QA-1 or similar shock. Where are your tires rubbing? They should fit with the proper backspacing.
 

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X4, roll bar.

Really, keep the front compliant with enough spring to hold the car up and a decent shock to keep the tire planted and control excessive body roll with a roll bar.

Each part has its function. When you try to make a part of the suspension do what its NOT supposed to do you will run into problems and chase your tail sweeping up all the problems you were trying to fix. Before you know it you have a brick going down the road and cant keep it in the lane and fighting the car going through the turns.

I say stuff a roll bar in there and DONT try to stiffen up the ride with shocks or springs. They have their purpose. Once again, the shocks keep the tire planted on the road during transitions from up or down. They DONT handle any body control, they only regulate the tire. Keep the tire on the road.

Springs only handle the sprung weight of the car, to keep it up and not dragging on the road. They dont control the wheel. Remember, the shocks do that. So the shocks control the wheel and the springs control the body. And they can get into a fight if you work them against each other, which is what so many folks do. They put a stiff spring in there, much more than is needed to support the car through the cycle and basically told the shocks to go to hell, The springs take control and the shocks cant do their job. So what happens next? Yeah, they put a stronger valved shock in there to resist the massive springs. So now you have the suspension fighting itself. The BRICK! Now you dont have any compliance, and yeah, it feels like you dont have any mushy anymore. But the truth is the tire isnt following the road anymore either. You HAVE to have compliance, where the tire follows the road.

Let each of them (shocks and springs) do what they are intended to do and then you have a compliant suspension. It follows the road and keeps the tire planted to the road. MAIN objective!!!

Then feel, mushy?? Then the tuning pieces come into play. A roll bar is a tuning piece, once you have the springs and shocks sorted out. And only after that has happened you look at the tuning aids, the roll bar.

And I didnt even go into the steering components, I wont, I assume you have that not so simple area worked out.

And for a side note, not really what you are talking about, but. Alignment specs. I dont like too much of the manufactures specs. Just me. Some of it you are stuck with. Yeah, camber is kinda set, toe is not forgiving. But hey!!! Caster!! What the hell. Am I lost or what. I dont see much talked about caster. So, Im a believer in going deep in the positive side of caster. Its easier to get some caster then looking at some camber changes. Static camber is pretty set. Camber gain is pretty set unless you are gonna do some major mods. But heck, some increased caster will give you some better camber gains where it counts. I dont know, just looking at the positive and negative sides of caster. IMO there are some gains to be had with using a lil more pos caster than what is dictated by the original specs.

K, solly, I shifted gears for a sec. But back to the OP Q. Dont go heavy on the springs or shocks, look at some other tuning aids. Roll bar is where I would go from here.. LOL I was talking for awhile huh?? Thats me. I go on and on and on LOL And its not even Margarita Sunday yet. JR
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks for the replys guys!!

the tires hit the bolts in that hold the fender on in the wheel well. the one directly on top and the one towards the back from that top bolt. The springs i have one site says 1 inch lowering and i found another site that said 2 inch lowering with the same part number??

Also the guy i got the car from has about a 3/8 wheel spacer on the front. so thats not helping hitting the outer bolts. i think for now im just going to get some 215s installed on the front rims and that will let me take the spacer out aswell. And wait for my sway bars to see if that helps with the mushy feeling i am having.
 

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I may be shooting in the dark here and what JR said has a lot of valid points but I'm going to refer back to my original post and suggest to you to get the correct spring rate/shock valving combo for what you want. When you say "mushy" I'm assuming that you mean when the car is transitioning from bump to droop and vice a versa.
I would call Hotchkis and ask them how they set theirs up. I would first tell them where I'll be driving the car the majority of the time and the feel that I'm looking for. They should be able to steer you in the right direction as far as the correct setup for your car.
I would also take the car to a good tire shop and have them figure out the correct sizing for your car so that you can get the widest tire on not have to buy another set once you have everything else figured out.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok well after i posted this question up a few months ago the car has been in the body shop and just got out.
I got new rims, there 16x8 iroc rims. getting tires put on this week, not sure what size tho.

After reading thru the post and after driving and thinking about the mushy feeling im having i believe the prolbem is the sensa trac shocks. I think the mushy feeling is the tires not going up and down with the bumps and road.

So what shocks do you guys recomend?

Also can someone take a picture of where their a-arms attach to the frame with a tape measure in the picture. I think at some point one of the owners of the car raised the a-arm bracket up about an 1 1/2 inches. which is why my car sits a little low in the front.
 

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Run a .5" negative degree camber to see if that helps with it missing your fender bolt, If not you will need a rim of a minimum of 5" bsp, or a narrower rim, like a 7" with 4.75" bsp.

Qa1, Alston Koni and a hand full of others are a good shock.
 
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