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Just got my new 350 SBC installed and the cam is broken in. My question is how should I drive the car on the street to break it in? I've heard you need to drive it hard to properly seat the rings,etc... Thanks for your replys!:cool:
 

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it is all different for every different aplication but whats worked best for me, NO fullthorttle dead stops for the first 7-800milesish pay after first 2000miles you can giver hell if nothing had gone wrong yet it all depends to how long do you want it to lasty????
 

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Drive it like you would normally drive a car. Vary the RPMs in the first few miles. Take a nice cruise, go up and down hills, short acceleration bursts. after about 500 miles change the oil and cut the filter open. If you got no particles then put fresh oil in there and drive it like ya stole it!!!

My 383 I built for my truck after I broke in the cam I changed the oil and took a 60 mile trip around the area, some freeway, some city, up hills, down hills, some quick accelerations from zero to 60mph...keep the RPM's below 5,000. Then towed a trailer with my big snap on box to my new job the next day 140 miles and got 16mph doing it. At 1,000 miles I changed the oil again and cut the filter open and found nothing inside. Then started performing regular full throttle passes up and down the freeway and took it to the drag strip.
 

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I usually wait until the end of my driveway before taking it to 7500 down the street!
If it seems to be puffing a little smoke after it's got a few miles on it--you might try taking it slowly up to about 3500 in 2nd, then left off the throttle and let it come back down slowly--a couple runs like that, then raise the rpm to 4500 and let it come back down......then maybe 5500...This should be done out where you be endangering yourself or others! I had an engine that the rings never really seated well, and my engine builder buddy went out with me and showed me this--at the end of the day, she was all sealed up and running good.
 

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with my 350 Im going to go easy for about the first 5 miles then im gonna take her as high as i think is safe.:D:D:yes::yes::D
 

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I usually wait until the end of my driveway before taking it to 7500 down the street!
If it seems to be puffing a little smoke after it's got a few miles on it--you might try taking it slowly up to about 3500 in 2nd, then left off the throttle and let it come back down slowly--a couple runs like that, then raise the rpm to 4500 and let it come back down......then maybe 5500...This should be done out where you be endangering yourself or others! I had an engine that the rings never really seated well, and my engine builder buddy went out with me and showed me this--at the end of the day, she was all sealed up and running good.
^^^^^^^^This is exactly how I was taught years ago!
 

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im with both bowtieoo69 and 6nova4 take it easy for a few miles or at least drive it for a few miles maybe take it to work for a week if you caan afford the gas then change filter and oil and drive it like jimmy johnston ( hallin rrss ).
 

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My 383 got the cam broke in on the dyno. Then the motor got broke in on the dyno. 7500 rpm for the first 3 runs then 8000 rpm for the next 2. This is how my engine builder breaks in motors. He's been building for a very long time. I figure if he engineered and built with Duntov, he must have some idea of what he's doing.
 

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I work at two different engine shops and they both say the same thing! If it aint broke in in the first 30min its broken! Break the cam in then drive it like ya stole it!
 

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for me it depends on the parts used.... new block, and rods, and crank need several heat cycles for the parts to Normalize...

A seasoned block, with seasoned crank and rods need no such considerations.....

ring material play a part as well, plasma moly versus plain cast iron, or ductial iron, dykes, etc.... also cylinder hone finish plays a major seating factor..... your base clearance in the bearings, whether set up loose or tight or factory........


to many variables to say how to break in a engine.... the engine should be run in depending on its intended use and maretials used....

IMO
 

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I work at two different engine shops and they both say the same thing! If it aint broke in in the first 30min its broken! Break the cam in then drive it like ya stole it!
That's the way I do it. If she was made to go 8000 then she should do strait off the stand.

My thaughts exactly!!
 

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I was allways told to run it with oil that has no detergent in it for breakin. Is this still the same? Was also told to drive it like normal and then do some pulls when the engine is lugging ( high gear low rpm's and then hard acceleration up to the rpm's you built it for) . Any problems with any of that?
 

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I have always broke the cam in and then double checked all the specifics, timing, oil pressure, water temp, no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. If everything checks out then I would drive it like I wanted it to run. Race engine the same way, after initial run in to make sure everything was a.o.k. it was then full throttle down the track.
 

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if its a roller cammmed motor you can start it let it warm up check for leaks and go for a cruise. but i dont think i got out of the garage without going wide open :eek:
 

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Great info guys. I have done the 20 minute break in for my flat lifter cam and was wondering myself. I wanna step on it, hell, who doesnt. Seems like the consensuses is to DRIVE it. Makes me feel better :) JR
 

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Great info guys. I have done the 20 minute break in for my flat lifter cam and was wondering myself. I wanna step on it, hell, who doesnt. Seems like the consensuses is to DRIVE it. Makes me feel better :) JR
yeah with a flat tappet you need to baby it for a few then slam the oh hell peddle. them flat tappet cams need a few miles on them. ive wiped out several flat tappet cams, one was my fault ( first one ) the others didnt make it pass ill say 5000 miles thats when this hole engine oil with none of the good stuff in it came out. so i made a good decision and switched to a roller cam :yes:
 
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