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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I will be firing up my Nova hopefully this weekend and have a question. I was told to let the engine run for about an hour and then change the oil and filter. I was told that after, I would need to let the engine break in before I can really get on the throttle. Anyone know how long I have to wait. :eek: It is my first build, and I don't want to mess anything up.

Also, I read that some people lift the rear and let the tires spin during the break in period. It is not the same if the car is just on?:confused:
 

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MNYPIT said:
Hey guys, I will be firing up my Nova hopefully this weekend and have a question. I was told to let the engine run for about an hour and then change the oil and filter. I was told that after, I would need to let the engine break in before I can really get on the throttle. Anyone know how long I have to wait. :eek: It is my first build, and I don't want to mess anything up.

Well the intial start up is for 20-30 minutes(@ 2000-2500rpm) not an hour followed by an oil and filter change and then after that I would at least get a 150-200 miles on it and a second oil change before I would really get on it....JMO...I'm sure there will be many various perspectives on this

Of course you do see many motors that are rebuilt/broke in/and go right to the track with seemingly no ill effects

MNYPIT said:
Also, I read that some people lift the rear and let the tires spin during the break in period. It is not the same if the car is just on?:confused:
I've never heard of this so I really have no opinion on it.....but personally I would think this is not true....:confused:
 

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If it is a semi mild street motor you could run the cam in for 45 minutes at about 2000 to 2500 RPMs if it is an after market cam. Check the lash, check the timing then run it around town while not running a constant RPM for a hundred miles or so. Then dump the oil and filter. Don't beat on it too bad for another hundred miles and as long as you know the clearances were OK when you built it you should be able to hammer down. The strictly race motors we build get dynoed after the cam run in so they get hammered on pretty good right out of the box. They are clearanced and honed a little differently than a street motor. The rings and bore finish on a street motor are different and need some wear in to get seated IMHO, RM
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help so far. I guess I should of metioned it is not too mild although it is a low compression engine (8 1/2 TO 1) with forged and balanced rotating assembly. It will be running a Prochager D1SC system with 12 pounds of boost.
 
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