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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Probably a dumb question, but I am new here and just bought my first, a 62 Nova drag/pro street car.
It has a few things on it that I am not familiar with, one of which is the MSD start/ retard controler, model #8982.
For now I just plan on getting familiar with the car and figure out how everything works on it, before driving it or taking it to the track.
How and when am I supposed to use this? I am not using NOS.
There is also a red button on top of the Hurst shifter, are they connected?:confused:
Thanks.
 

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Most people use that device to retard the timing when the car starts. The device is actuated with the start button and is on while the motor rolls over. Stand 10 degrees of retard unless you cut the looped wires on the box. When you let go of the starter button the timing goes back to normal. It can also be activated at the same time as a NOS system to retard timing with the timing chip you plug into the port on the box.
 

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Just a guess but the button on your shifter button is probably a line lock used for burnouts. Push it and pump up your brakes to see for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replys.
The guy I bought the car from (a classic/hot rod) car dealer didn't know too much about drag cars but did mention something about a line lock.....which brings me to my next question:
the brakes are REALLY bad (and they are all brand new) the pedal goes down almost to the floor!!! so something is out of adjustment!
It has front discs and rear drums, I tried today to adjust the drums, but didn't seem to improve things.
Which way am I supposed to turn the star wheel to tighten the brakes?
 

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I have had a lot of people tell me many times, with the retard, be ready to replace flywheels frequently. I never had one, so I cant say for sure that it is a problem.
 

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I have had a lot of people tell me many times, with the retard, be ready to replace flywheels frequently. I never had one, so I cant say for sure that it is a problem.
Did they give a reason for this? I am honestly curious because I haven't heard this before..

-Dan
 

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Thanks for the replys.
The guy I bought the car from (a classic/hot rod) car dealer didn't know too much about drag cars but did mention something about a line lock.....which brings me to my next question:
the brakes are REALLY bad (and they are all brand new) the pedal goes down almost to the floor!!! so something is out of adjustment!
It has front discs and rear drums, I tried today to adjust the drums, but didn't seem to improve things.
Which way am I supposed to turn the star wheel to tighten the brakes?
i believe up on driver side and down on passenger for tightening up the rear. i would have someone help you and really bleed the front brakes good. it sounds like thats were the problem lays. 70% of the braking will be done on the front. focus on that first then play with the rear
 

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I set up our 7531 box for 10* retard on start and have had no issues with kickback for two seasons. We spin the engine over and then hit the ignition to start it. It's primarily used for high compression engines. Ours is 632 ci with 15.5 to 1 compression.
 

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I have had a lot of people tell me many times, with the retard, be ready to replace flywheels frequently. I never had one, so I cant say for sure that it is a problem.

Actually the oppisite is true when properly used and set up. Race engines use a locked distributor usually or a crank trigger. No vacuum or centrifical advances so the timing is set and fixed. When you try to strat the motor at 36 degrees they tend to kick back. The retard removes some timing so this doesn't happen. Many people do not toally understand how or why motors kick and they try a retard to fix something that is not timing related so then they really start to break stuff. Then they blame the retard. Rotor phase and slow cranking motors cause kick backs. That is why some guys have to use 16 volt batteries to get their motor to spin faster. People who run alot of NOS have to pull so much timing the rotor moves too far from full timing to total retard.
 

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Actually the oppisite is true when properly used and set up. Race engines use a locked distributor usually or a crank trigger. No vacuum or centrifical advances so the timing is set and fixed. When you try to strat the motor at 36 degrees they tend to kick back. The retard removes some timing so this doesn't happen. Many people do not toally understand how or why motors kick and they try a retard to fix something that is not timing related so then they really start to break stuff. Then they blame the retard. Rotor phase and slow cranking motors cause kick backs. That is why some guys have to use 16 volt batteries to get their motor to spin faster. People who run alot of NOS have to pull so much timing the rotor moves too far from full timing to total retard.

RM is correct, I have used my retard box with my locked out distributor for 2 years and have never had a problem and I have my timing set at 40*

Phil
 

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We spin the engine over and then hit the ignition to start it. It's primarily used for high compression engines.
BINGO!!!! We have a winner!!!!!!!!!

Al


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Discussion Starter #12
Don't know what the compression is, it's a brand new ZZ4 crate motor with World Products 74cc heads, roller rockers, cam and a Weiand 144 supercharger with Demon 750 carb.
 
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