Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Have 71, with mono leaf springs and air bag shocks. Rear end is a beefed up 10 bolt, with Eaton Posi, and Moser axles. 383 stroker engine has 583 # of torque. Real stump puller!
When try to accelerate fast,,from a dead stop, I experience "wheel hop". Thus not a good of a launch as I'd like.
What have some members done to prevent this? I've looked into traction bars, Cal Tracs, and Global West beefed up mono springs. Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Have 71, with mono leaf springs and air bag shocks. Rear end is a beefed up 10 bolt, with Eaton Posi, and Moser axles. 383 stroker engine has 583 # of torque. Real stump puller!
When try to accelerate fast,,from a dead stop, I experience "wheel hop". Thus not a good of a launch as I'd like.
What have some members done to prevent this? I've looked into traction bars, Cal Tracs, and Global West beefed up mono springs. Thank you!
Sorry the torque from the dyno was 538.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
In order of effectiveness...
Smith Racecraft Asassin Bars
Cal-Trac Bars.....very small difference between these two

Competition Engineering Slide-a-Link

Competition Engineering Slapper Bars.
Southside Machine Lift bars

Beefed up Mono, or reversed stacked and clamped multi leaf

Lakewoood Slapper Bars, but only the competition versions and even those need some rework.

The air bag shocks really hamper your efforts, they don't have the damping ability of good shock absorbers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,011 Posts
Like Eric was saying, you need to stop the wrap of the front of the spring. And there are multiple devices that do it. The only one I would not recommend is the universal traction bars. If you use the old slapper bars like I had on my 70 get the ones with the j-bolt setup. Otherwise there are a lot of more modern choices. My friend at work has a 67 nova wagon with assassin bars that has just gone 6.96 at 202 on 315 radials.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you gentlemen. All fine suggestions. Looks like new shocks for me. Having ..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,753 Posts
Depending on how fast you’re looking to go and how hard you want to launch there might be some other things to consider. With over 500lbft of torque to unleash at will, I hope you have subframe connectors. Weight transfer is crucial at the launch. How is your front suspension setup? Do you have 90/10 drag shocks? Drag springs? Basic street car setup?

Cal Tracks, Assasin Bars, and Competition Engineering has a similar traction device. Do you have a rear sway bar?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Getting drag radials installed right now. Have front and back sway bars. Beefed up motor mounts. My engine is internally balanced. Global West front arms. Aluminum driveshaft,drive shaft loop. Poly mounts thruout. Battery in trunk. That's it
 

·
Registered
Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
Joined
·
1,467 Posts
how's this kit from Calvert look? Getting new drag radials tomorrow also.
I believe that this set-up should solve your "wheel hop" issue.
I also agree with others that the addition of subframe connectors would compliment this set-up by stiffening your chassis.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Maintain

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
GM fixed the problem by having one shock behind the axle and one in front.
I'm going to the track this weekend. I think with my new Nittos on all four corners, I may be ok. My rear end is out of of a Trans Am. Body has no rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
GM fixed the problem by having one shock behind the axle and one in front.
That's only a sorta fix, for factory power levels....start adding more power or more traction than stock tires and it won't be enough, a traction device is needed to counteract the fact that the front half of the main leaf spring is being bent under power....that shock placement can't do anything about that.
Spring bends under power right behind the front eye and then traction loses grip, spring snaps back from reduced load, tire bites again and bends spring...la la la la la over and over again in millisecond intervals...."wheel hop".

That is what makes those top three listed traction bars so effective, they transfer the force of axle rotation back into the spring by pressing down on the main leaf right at that point behind the spring eye that it would try to bend, keeping everything under control and allowing the power to be concentrated back to the tire instead of wasted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I tightened all bolts and went for a drive. Did better. Still will get a traction bar of some sort. Been looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,953 Posts
Based on my experience with racing Mopars back in the 60's, I used a set of Mopar 3000# Super Stock springs in my 67 coupe. Excellent traction, no wheel hop, no bars hanging down. 1.6 second 60' times. There is a left and a right spring, and they are reasonably priced.

 

·
Premium Member
1967 Chevy II nova Hardtop
Joined
·
3,884 Posts
That's only a sorta fix, for factory power levels....
Granted, But those shocks were also of a poor design and set up for the softest ride possible. I would argue in a class where traction devises were not allowed good shocks mounted front and back to reduce axle rotation would go a long way even with additional power. If traction helpers could be used my choice would be the lightest option.
Flex-Form Composite Leaf Springs replace Steel Leaf Springs
Check out their axle twisting option.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top