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Discussion Starter #1
I have a set of body mounts going in the car and I am not sure where to support the car to swap them out. The engine and tranny are still in the car. I have 1 heavy duty hydraulic jack, a bottle jack and 2 jack stands. I can get whats needed if neccesary. The front clip is completely removed also. I was thinking of supporting the chassis under the transmission crossmember on jack stands but I dont know if that would be a bad idea. How do you guys do it? And once the car is supported and I start loosening the mounts, will the front sub frame tilt forward? Any pictures would be appreciated. Thanks!

Gary
 

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I did one side at a time (to maintain alignment). I used a 4x4 placed just inside the frame rail, placed a floor jack under the 4x4, and lifted the body just enough to get the new mounts in.
 

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One side at a time, you will need to loosen the bolts on the same side to get the body up enough to change the mounts, but change one at a time.
I needed the car up high so I could fit the center, rounded portion of my body under it; so I put the car on 6 jack stands, 2 under the rear axle, 2 under the front of the subframe by the bumper and 2 under the rear of the subframe by the transmission crossmember. Then like Danno I used a jack and block of wood to raise the body enough to change the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I hope these questions arent annoying....

1) Does the car have to be level when on 6 stands?

2) When you remove the body mounts ( the two locations under the chassis ) how do you get space between the frame and chassis to insert the new bushings? Or will there be a space already from removing the bushings and bolts?


I figured there would be tension in the locations and they gap would close. But maybe I just need to start the job and figure it out
 

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try this

one jackstand behind each of leaf spring, just behind the shakle, then u need 2 2x6. jackstand the car on the pinch welds just under the doors w 2x6 as far forward as possible in between stands and pinch welds to spread the load out some.then engine hoist through engine compartment w strap around frame rails as far forward as possible then floorjack on tranny mount . engine hoist will up and down the front while keeping it level assuming the strap is even. floor jack does the back you then move the entire subframe up and down as much as you want this is also a nifty way to take frame out and reinstall by yourself safely and without damage. am going to remove frame in two or three weeks for finish painting jus this way ill try to get some pic for ya
 

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Discussion Starter #8
one jackstand behind each of leaf spring, just behind the shakle, then u need 2 2x6. jackstand the car on the pinch welds just under the doors w 2x6 as far forward as possible in between stands and pinch welds to spread the load out some.then engine hoist through engine compartment w strap around frame rails as far forward as possible then floorjack on tranny mount . engine hoist will up and down the front while keeping it level assuming the strap is even. floor jack does the back you then move the entire subframe up and down as much as you want this is also a nifty way to take frame out and reinstall by yourself safely and without damage. am going to remove frame in two or three weeks for finish painting jus this way ill try to get some pic for ya
Cool, thanks....I am not sure if I can get my hoist in the garage I am at. I only have about 1 foot in the front and 1 foot in the back. My only hoist is the heavy duty 4000lb Continental wich is in my basement. I was thinking of running a 4X4 under the front bumper pads and a jack in the middle. This would only work if the frame leans forward when the mounts are removed
 

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I hope these questions arent annoying....

1) Does the car have to be level when on 6 stands?

2) When you remove the body mounts ( the two locations under the chassis ) how do you get space between the frame and chassis to insert the new bushings? Or will there be a space already from removing the bushings and bolts?


I figured there would be tension in the locations and they gap would close. But maybe I just need to start the job and figure it out
Do not over complicate this. Level isn't necessary,but get it as close as you can. With the sub frame supported in 2 places on each side and the rear of the car supported under the axle when you unbolt the body it will easily raise up off the sub frame using a bottle jack and blocks of wood far enough to replace the bushings. It took me about 2 hours to replace the 4 body bushings and install sub frame connectors. I did not loosen all of them, loosen the 2 on the same side, raise the body, replaced the bushings lower the body and tighten the bolts and then do the other side. I did the radiator support bushings when the core support was removed for painting. Those bolts do not need removed or loosened to do the body bushings.
 
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