[Blurr]

1. I have the heater box all torn apart to replace the heater core. While it is apart I need to determine if the blower works. Is there a way I can connect it to a separate power source to see if it will turn on? It doesn't work when plugged into the heater control on the dash but I need to know if the problem is with the wiring or the blower itself. Any ideas?

2. The prior owner tore out the original hi/low horns and put in an ooooga horn (kinda neat but an eyesore). I have the original horns so is there a way I can test them to see if they work without trying to reconnect them?

3. Power tailgate window works intermittently. Is there a way I can test the motor with an external power source to see if it is the motor or just the car's wiring?

The only appropriate tool for these jobs that I own are a test probe. Do I need to buy/borrow ah ohm meter or anything else?

thanks in advance!

 

[BPeer1]

Blurr,
A lot of times I use a 12v battery charger to test electrical equipment. Attach the ground(black) lead to the horn mounting bracket and the positive(red) lead to the terminal on the horn. If the horn is good, you'll know. Do the same thing with the heater motor.
BP

 

[Blurr]

Blurr,
A lot of times I use a 12v battery charger to test electrical equipment. Attach the ground(black) lead to the horn mounting bracket and the positive(red) lead to the terminal on the horn. If the horn is good, you'll know. Do the same thing with the heater motor.
BP

I have a 12v battery charger, I'm gonna run out to the garage and give this a shot. Thanks! I assume the same test can be done to the power tailgate window?

 

[Custom Jim]

Watch it with using a battery charger as a power source. Some have very loosely regulated outputs (can put out close to 20 volts) which can damage things or give false information as to whether a part actually works or not.

Some chargers also cannot output a lot of amperage which could limit how well something may or may not work when hooked to it.
Horns and blower motors could very well be tested with a battery charger but just because it doesn't work may not mean it's bad or defective. It could be a supply problem from the charger.

One thing else, do not try and touch the part directly to the posts of a battery. There's always the possibility of a spark being created and if there are fumes around the battery this could ignite them. On something like this you could extend a set of wires off of the battery with a fuse right by the battery on the positive cable and then test the item away from the battery.

Jim

 

[Blurr]

just got back from the garage, no luck on the horns or blower motor. hopefully i'm doing something wrong or the battery charger isn't doing the trick as Custom Jim pointed out.

any other ideas?

 

[rodnokn6]

same problem

I was experiencing the same problem with my power tailgate in my 63 wagon.After spending some time isolating the source of the problem I found several...The previous owner had a cheap paint job done they painted over the ground tab @ the passenger side jam.I removed the grounding tab and scrapped off the paint.It turns out GM used to run full amperage thru their switches .This is the case with the two switches (three if 9 passenger)that operate the tailgate glass on a nova wagon.I disassembled the key operated switch at the tailgate, inside I found a set of little bitty contacts they looked pretty fried! The factory tailgate harness was old and corrded at two different factory splice points.Keep in mind the older the motor the more amps it tends to draw to operate,To correct the burnt switch and wiring I installed 2 30 amp bosch relays(one for up and one for down).I used the existing switches they work fine with the very reduced load.I replaced the corroded wires,I did all this 3 years ago ive had absolutely no problems since then. btw this car is my daily driver.,To test the motor do not ground the housing .Their are three trminals on the motor the one in the middle is your ground connection . The remaining two are for up and down by reversing polarity.I would follow the nova gurus advive and use a battery and a set of long cables for safety I hope this helps you out.

 

[Blurr]

update:

when the window up/down rocker switch is activated and left on, the ground wire in the tailgate gets real hot. this confirms to me that adequate power is being delivered to the motor. is the motor toast?