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Guys I need to lighten this thing up. It has a bolt on front end, all steel except for the hood and bumpers, full interior, SBC with iron block, stock tank with sump, and me. I know I am good for 80 myself but what else can I do without changing the stock appearance of the car inside? Does anyone make fiberglss or carbon fiber doors that will accept the stock windows and regulators for a 66? I still have the steel bumper brackets and will look at changing them as well as putting in an aluminum fuel cell. I don't think I can go with a strut type front end because of the class racing I run. I was thinking about having the back seat frame replaced with a foam replica and covered.
The car with me, fuel and nitrous is 3400! What do you think fiberglass fenders are worth?
 

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Good thoughts. The uncovering of the pickup is why I want to get a cell. I know I have about 5-7 gallons of extra fuel in there. The wheels are Holeshots and they are super light. I know I can get titanium this and titanium that and gundrill this etc, but am hoping for a bigger return quicker than changing out all the little stuff.
 

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i helped a buddy on his 64 and the fenders are pretty light how they are. you can save weight other places. aluminum calipers and light weight rotors you can gain 30lbs there. same in rear but get rid of the parking brake style.

get rid of the steel steering components and replace with chromoly and aluminum rod ends { if you look and the psi of the stock rod ends the qa1 aluminum are stronger} and much lighter

get rid of the stock headlights and go with the after market ones on ebay [they are plastic] and you save a little

pull out the stock core support and build a new one with thin wall steel round stock, and aluminum use the aluminum to block air from engine compartment accept for radiator.

fiberglass inner fenders, or aluminum on your year.

cut out the stock frame supports and replace with round stock[ make sure to brace properly]..

i dont know what all you have done but here are some that arent so obvious.

the fiberglass doors you probably wouldnt be very happy with, they dont do good adding weight of regulators and stuff


these few things not a lot of people mess with but it adds up more than you think. i have several buddies that like the stock sleeper look so we did these things along with chromoly control arms, and chromoly spindles.
 

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if you want a quicker return get a pro front clip and a lift off race weight hood. then do a tube core support. the front clip is only 40 pounds with bumper , hood, and everything. but to look stock you will be doing some air brushing and nice saw work
 

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i've heard

a corvair front suspension and pinto rack will take about 200 lbs. No steering box , no inner fender panels , i've saw 2 done this way ,, you have to brace it up , tie the front to your cage , but its 200 lbs off of it ,, you have to knotch the frame , place the corvair suspension in the knotch , weld it up , make brackets for the rack , run a steering stem , it looked slick , wish i had took pics
 

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Gut the dash yet? I know all the heater and wiper motor stuff was around 60 lbs in my 63. Tore out the rear window regulators and pinned the factory glass in my old 68 chevelle, that was 35 lbs. Its also crazy how much weight can be saved in re-wiring a car.
What do you have for seats? Factory front buckets in the 63 were 71 lbs each! Back seat was 50.
 

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At one time U.S. Body Source said their doors would accept all stock hardware--I think they want to avoid warranty issues now, so it says plastic windows only. The hinges and latches still fit and look stock. I was thinking Lexan windows in the stock regulators might survive in the glass doors; maybe glass in some reinforcements around the bolt holes?
 

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get a plastic fuel cell,light weight brakes,get rid of all the parking brake crap,put lighting holes in the bumper brackets ,light weight seats,remove stero if you have one,lighter shocks,get rid of all the heater crap under the dash,etc
 

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If you are running a stock style posi unit, replace it with a spool. You will lose about 15-20 lbs. This is assuming this is a race only car of course.
 

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I saved 8 lbs going from the original radiator to an aluminum.

I also saved 9 lbs (vs the factory gas tank) with a fuel cell, and I have the 20 gallon cell, so if you went with the 10 gallon cell you probably could save almost 20 lbs.

How about a mini starter?

How about lightweight brake drums and an aluminum driveshaft to reduce rotating mass?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lots of good ideas guys.:yes:

I have gutted the dash of the heater core but I still have a radio and the sliding heater switches. I don't want to degrade the stock interior look.

I have an aluminum radiator, strange disc brakes, mini starter, spool, aftermarket lights, strange shocks, aluminum seats, Flaming river rack and steering column, chromoly 25.5 cage etc.

I don't have the parking brake stuff either by the way.

I am looking into the door idea, bolt on trunk lid, fuel cell, radiator support and cross member. Also looking at getting rid of my 1 gallon cell and fuel pump up front I use for the nitrous system and just using the Aeromotive Eliminator pump in the rear which is good to 2300hp N/A they say. Might get the cell done this year yet and do the rest over the winter.
 

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The weight of your car surprises me.........mine is tubbed, yours is not, but I still have all the factory interior, back seat etc.etc. I did however change to a set of drag seats with stock appearing apolstry. My biggest savings was from the aluminum block. When I changed to my rack/pinion and aluminum block, at the same time, I lost 200lbs. off of the nose of the car.

Bite the bullet, put your engine inside an aluminum block.........
 

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The weight of your car surprises me
Me too. My 69 is all steel except the hood--still has inner fenderwells--80's Mustang buckets, but no interior to speak of, 25 gal. aluminum cell, Aerospace discs (but stock vented rotors) all glass except the 2 rear side pieces are plexi with a single screw holding each....I haven't weighed since the rack & pinion install, and I just yanked the heater control cables and stuff. It should be damn close to 2900 without my 188 lbs.
 

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looks like your on the rite path. deck lid, hood, bumpers, and maybe doors will help in the race weight. i saw that bowtie was talking about the glass doors, if you go that route just go harwood. i have seen lots of issue with us body source. bowtie is probably rite by using the lexan it would be easier on the hinges, also if you pull out the regulator you can probably make some aluminum ones yourself to lighten up more
 

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go to mc master carr, get alum 5/16 bolts, I use them in all non load bearing parts, buy alum bolts for bumper brackets, make a biliet pice ,ball mill some lines in it and anoidize it black to cover were the heater controls are.Remove stock 1/4 brake lines with spring junk over them and bend new lines out of 3/16 with a/n fittings. AFTERMARKET GLASS IS THINNER,
 

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Me too. My 69 is all steel except the hood--still has inner fenderwells--80's Mustang buckets, but no interior to speak of, 25 gal. aluminum cell, Aerospace discs (but stock vented rotors) all glass except the 2 rear side pieces are plexi with a single screw holding each....I haven't weighed since the rack & pinion install, and I just yanked the heater control cables and stuff. It should be damn close to 2900 without my 188 lbs.
dont you have Dyno matt all over the inside ?
 
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