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My exhaust pipe runs right next to my starter, so hot starting problems are nothing new. I usually would have to wait for the temp. gauge to drop below 180 after it had been running awhile. I recently replaced my OE style Delco starter with another one. This new starter seems to spin over better than the old one, but now after running the car at normal operating temp. for awhile, I have to let the car completely cool down to start on its own, or get a jump start. I was at a cruise in recently with the temp gauge well under 150, but still nothing. A jump start spun it over. Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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If a jump start gets it going I would consider getting a battery with more cranking amps. I had that problem with my old 62 Impala and that fixed it for me. Started great when cold but hot was another story. Weak battery just did not have the amps to turn it over when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll check into a larger amp battery. It's still strange that the new starter seems to be affected more than the old ones. The engine is a 327.
 

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Have you verified all the connections at both ends of both cables are clean and tight? That the cables are not corroded under the insulation? The mounting pad for the starter is clean of all paint and contaminants?

It's still strange that the new starter seems to be affected more than the old ones.
Rebuilt starters are not renewed with all new parts. Most rebuilders only replace what they deem necessary. Most times they are cleaned, painted then assembled with new brushes.

For this reason I use new AC Delco (Delphi) or a quality mini starter.
This starter worked well for over 7 years. When i sold the car it was removed to be used as a back up for the Nova.

 

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I also have the Ford Solinoid on my car.......so no matter how hot it is under the bay........it ALWAYS cranks over and fires.
That really isn't needed, it still has to energize the same starter and solenoid. Only thing it does is to force a rewire eliminating any bad wires and connections at the starter.

It doesn't get much hotter than in the Arizona desert in June (115° - 120° in the shade) and my cars high compression engine starts fine, every time.
 

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This should do it. Now I didnt spend no 32 bucks on a simple reply. I just used a 5 buck relay. I wire it in and have it mounted on the frame right accross from the starter. THIS WORKS, I have always had a hot start issue and a friend turned me onto the hot shot. I looked at it and said thats just a relay. so got on Painless website downloaded directions and that is all it is,
I NEVER HAD IT EVER HAPPEN SINCE. been three years now. It has to do with the power to turn the hot starter. going thru system it doesnt get all the bat juice it can without the relay.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Performance-Products/764/30202/10002/-1?parentProductId=744580#moreDetails

Haha, if you look at the video of the 468 back in 08 I had the same starter I now have on the 496. When I start the car again in video after 20 minute break in, you can see my friend with a long bar smack the starter a few time to get it to start, that was before the relay.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/468-big-block-chevy_178910.htm
 

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The external solenoid just gets full power without voltage drop to the gm solenoid that usually causes the hard starts due to resistence because of heat... between a heat shield and the external, should be good to go. Might be good to go with just the heat shield...
So the remote solenoid magically removes the heat from the starter and solenoid. As I said it doesn't get hotter than here in the summer, some days the pavement is so hot it can be felt through shoes. With a good starter, wires and tight connections there should be no problems.
 

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A good way to check to see if you need a remote solenoid is to wait until you have the problem, then get underneath and use a screwdriver to jump the 2 posts on the starter. If it starts easy, then a ford solenoid will help, since that is basically what it does.. The main problem is the voltage of the purple wire running to your starter. That voltage has to run through 40 year old connections in your car and is probably about 10 volts by the time it gets to the starter., couple that with the extra resistance of the hot solenoid, and it's just not enough to do it.

The Ford solenoid just bypasses the purple wire and feeds a full 12 volts to the starter solenoid... then it works. A new harness and good connections won't have that problem, the purple wire will have a full 12 volts.

You might just have a ground problem if it works when you jump the battery, you are now using the other cars ground also.

Good luck.:)
 

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The purple wire still has to feed the Ford solenoid, and most times has to be extended. If the heat is causing higher resistance in the purple wire at the starter than that wire needs to be replaced with a new one. A remote solenoid places one more device adding resistance in the path to power the starter, a device that also uses battery voltage to operate it, lowering available power to the starter. It only works because it forces the replacement of all the old wiring and the use of new connections and wiring to install.

IMO the only time it is necessary is with a battery mounted in the trunk and if used as a safety device.
 

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The purple wire still has to feed the Ford solenoid, and most times has to be extended. If the heat is causing higher resistance in the purple wire at the starter than that wire needs to be replaced with a new one. A remote solenoid places one more device adding resistance in the path to power the starter, a device that also uses battery voltage to operate it, lowering available power to the starter. It only works because it forces the replacement of all the old wiring and the use of new connections and wiring to install.

IMO the only time it is necessary is with a battery mounted in the trunk and if used as a safety device.
Philip, Jeez man....

The Ford solenoid is away from the heat, it takes a mere 6 volts to trigger it, very little resistance...Then you can send a full 12 volts directly to the solenoid on the GM starter. You are using a jumper from the large gauge wire to the solenoid to get a full 12 volts...starter then turns.

A weak purple wire will trigger a Ford solenoid..


It's a fact, thats why you can directly jump both the terminals on a heat soaked GM starter and it will turn, while using the key won't do it.


I'm not even sure why I'm responding to this, it's a fact and has been around for years... Some people need it, unless they do a complete refreshing of the cars wiring system and get a full 12 volts to the purple wire... that's a lot of money to me.

Nothing personal Philip:)
 

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Just give the relay thing a try, IT WILL WORK. 5 bucks and some wiring time. I fought it for weeks. The relay gives you direct power and the purple wire just switches the reply to do it. I even tried different starters, One a 250 buck mini starter and it started not working hot before I put the relay in.

BTW my whole car has a new Painless system in it, GM style and it did it before the relay
 

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A good way to check to see if you need a remote solenoid is to wait until you have the problem, then get underneath and use a screwdriver to jump the 2 posts on the starter. If it starts easy, then a ford solenoid will help, since that is basically what it does.. The main problem is the voltage of the purple wire running to your starter. That voltage has to run through 40 year old connections in your car and is probably about 10 volts by the time it gets to the starter., couple that with the extra resistance of the hot solenoid, and it's just not enough to do it.

The Ford solenoid just bypasses the purple wire and feeds a full 12 volts to the starter solenoid... then it works. A new harness and good connections won't have that problem, the purple wire will have a full 12 volts.

You might just have a ground problem if it works when you jump the battery, you are now using the other cars ground also.

Good luck.:)
I work in one of the oldest and best starter and alternator rebuild shops in San Diego. We always get these same complaints. The above solution is right on . Believe it. And always make sure your battery is "fully" charged.
 

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The Ford solenoid works and has been around a long long time. I have parted out street/strip cars that were built in the 70's and 80's that still had stock starters and Ford Solenoids mounted on firewalls or fenderwells. Making sure you have really good grounds on the car (subframe,body,engine) also helps a lot..



Tommy :)
 

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I used to have hot start problems because my header basically wrapped the starter. I took it to a mechanic who put a relay on the driver's fender well--I guess this is the F*rd piece being batted about. That fixed the problem. It's a cheap fix, and really doesn't do anything to mess up the engine compartment or wiring.
 

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I just went through the same scenario on my wagon.
Wired up a ford solenoid, solved the problem.
This solution has been around for many years:D
 

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Lots of things have been around a long time, doesn't make them necessary or correct.

My solenoid is less than .125" away from the header pipe, the headers are not coated, just painted increasing the amount of heat given off. I have factory AC crowding the area above the starter reducing the air flow on that side of the engine, I have no starting issues. Drove all over Phoenix Wednesday in 100° + temperatures with no starting issues.
Unlike the human body placing a band aid on a car does not make it heal faster.
Since the only items removed from the starter location when using the relay are the battery cable and purple wire, the problem lies in either one or both of them.
 
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