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One issue I had and didn't mention is yesterday before I went for a drive I started the car and pulled it out of the garage. Was letting it warm up and after a couple of minutes it died and wouldn't restart. Engine would turn over but no power to coil. I removed fuse block connection from engine side of firewall and had power there but not beyond the firewall. Wire had continuity from coil to connector. Cleaned the connection and plugged it back in and it started. The wire connection looks suspect.
I was also thinking that the condition you stated above (poor ignition wire connection at fuse block connector) may have also been contributing to your rough/poor idle when the engine was hot.
Be sure all of the wire connectors are clean, corrosion free, and tightly fastened to the wires.
 

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Victor . . . . . for a simple " Test " . . . . . you could run a "jumper hot wire from your BAT post to the +
side of u'r coil . See if that will change anything = like "run longer (without cutting - out) , OR , an easy
check before removing any stock wires (or taking your stock wiring system a part) .
Leave the jumper wire on there = WHILE U'R TESTING = , if you have too leave ; unhook
the jumper wire . . from the bat + .
 
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Discussion Starter #83
Can you tell if the thickness (gauge) of the ignition power wire that is connected to the + side of the coil is larger then the other wires connected to the coil.
I don't know the exact gauge but it is two or three times the thickness of the other wires.
Seems that your cooling system was working pretty well from the above description.
Have you rechecked the coolant level in the radiator recently... you may have had an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system that needs to work its way out.
Yes, I rechecked the coolant level and it was good. Seems like with the bypass it is effective in getting the air out of the system. I can't get past the fact it stays at 180 sitting in the sun in the driveway for an hour but when I drive it and then stop for some reason it climbs to over 200 and stalls out at 210?

Be sure all of the wire connectors are clean, corrosion free, and tightly fastened to the wires.
The connection I cleaned seems to work but as Jim suggested and before I read the troubleshooting for the pertronix this morning I ran a wire directly from the battery to the coil yesterday to make sure the connection wasn't an issue. I have a new coil I can put in and see if that is an issue.
Lastly, the voltage at the battery when the engine temp is 180 degrees is 15.5 volts.
I really do appreciate the help and input. Thanks to everyone.
 

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You said it has a fan clutch installed on it previously. I Would make sure you don’t have a fan clutch failure. When your at the 200 degree range if you bring it up off idle do you hear the fan engage? Make sure you get a quality thermostatic fan clutch. This is a common area people buy an in-expensive part and it causes these similar issues. I used the AC Delco equivalent of this
 

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I don't know the exact gauge but it is two or three times the thickness of the other wires.
That's good!... seem like at some point, someone took care of running a larger gauge, full battery voltage ignition wire.

I can't get past the fact it stays at 180 sitting in the sun in the driveway for an hour but when I drive it and then stop for some reason it climbs to over 200 and stalls out at 210?
Very weird indeed.

Lastly, the voltage at the battery when the engine temp is 180 degrees is 15.5 volts.
The charging system seems to be working... but 15.5 volts seems a little too high.
I'm not sure if your running an alternator with an external voltage regulator.... or an an alternator with an internal voltage regulator.

Maybe some of the electrical guru's will chime in with their thoughts on your charging voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
You said it has a fan clutch installed on it previously. I Would make sure you don’t have a fan clutch failure. When your at the 200 degree range if you bring it up off idle do you hear the fan engage? Make sure you get a quality thermostatic fan clutch. This is a common area people buy an in-expensive part and it causes these similar issues. I used the AC Delco equivalent of this
I bought the fan clutch new when I did the V8 swap. Can't say that I can hear the fan engage when I rev it up but I did take the fan clutch off of the other car and swapped it while it was hot and having issues and there was no difference. I know the fan works on the other car. It never gets above 160 under the same circumstances. I was wondering if there is actually a way to test the fan clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
The charging system seems to be working... but 15.5 volts seems a little too high.
I'm not sure if your running an alternator with an external voltage regulator.... or an an alternator with an internal voltage regulator.
The car has an external voltage regulator. Reading up on it and apparently anything over 14.5 is to much. Perhaps there is an issue with the voltage regulator? Another thing I realize I know very little about.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
totally not my realm knowing very little, but have some of the same issues...are we talking cast iron versus aluminum intake? are there heat transfer differences between the two? like, can you change to a cast intake and see a difference?

have a '66 with the starting issues, and a '63 with the heating issue. both 327's. watching this thread closely.

btw, we are so lucky to have so many knowledgeable folks!

-Rusty
I don't know the answer to your question and not my realm either but the intake is the next thing that I am going to try. Just eliminate one thing at a time until I figure out why it is getting hot. Reading about the heat crossovers and blocking them off pros and cons. Could be a waste of time but having a convertible that I cant drive in the summer doesn't really work for me. Unfortunately I'm running out of time before I go back to work.
 

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The car has an external voltage regulator. Reading up on it and apparently anything over 14.5 is to much. Perhaps there is an issue with the voltage regulator?
I don’t know a lot about external voltage regulators other than you should get a Solid State voltage regulator when you need to replace one.

Be sure to also check the water level that is in your battery... as higher charging voltage might have boiled some of the water away.
 
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