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Those floor pans aren't bad at all, you could get away with doin just a partial pan, I wouldn't cut out anymore than you need to, weld it in solid, grind it flat and done. That is similar to what my buddies 68 camaro pans looked like, he bought a partial and we cut it up and replaced just the pin holed areas. It was quick and easy, no need for a full floor.

http://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1973/nova/parts/body-panels/floor-pans/partial/

If you want to see a rotted floor......

 

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Replacing rotted metal isn't hard just time consuming it's not something you want to rush unless you have done it dozens of times. Romancommander has a very descriptive build thread showing exactly what he did and Russiansavage never did body work before he started on his car.


Floor pans are very easy since the finished product just needs to be structurally strong and level, not perfectly pretty since it won't be seen (covered by carpet and undercoating). So I'd start with them to get you started, and don't worry if you mess up the worst thing that can happen is you need to start over.

As for the body metal here are a few tips.

Always use patch panels where you can, keep original sheet metal if at all possible, even with high quality repops style lines and molding is not 100% accurate. Plus patch panels are less work and require less filler.

When cutting out a small section keep what you just cut out for your template. Doing so almost guarantee's the new patch will be the correct size. If you don't have original metal for you template cardboard is the next best thing.

Never run a continuous weld bead on sheet metal it will warp the metal in no time, even doing small tacks you need to be very patient and let the metal cool down completely before your next tack, I use the air gun to assist in this process. Always jump around on the tacks at least 3-6 inches. This is a very time consuming process but will make the end result that much more gratifying as well as save you boat loads of time applying filler and block sanding.

I see you have a lot of tools, I highly recommend a hammer/doly set, it will be your best friend and honestly it's an absolute must have. If you do want to buy a few dvd's or books I recommend "Metal Bumping". That one is a must have for straitening damaged metal. I also recommend the Paintucation dvd's by Kevin Tetz, get the full set as there are some really good tips on replacing panels etc as well as painting tips. Just don't mind his mullet in the older videos.
 

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Hey my fellow nova buddies :)

I bought a 72 Nova about 10 months ago and had it shipped here to Australia where I now live (originally from cali). Long story short, I should have had it inspected by a good friend before I bought it.... ah well **** happens ;)




















:salute::usa::australia:
Looks like great beginnings. I'm buying a couple project cars because prices on them is getting out of reach and fewer available. So the garage is nearly packed and it is time to rebuild.
Wondering why you said you were disappointed when you received the car. Was there rust, panel changes, missing parts, or bad workmanship under the paint ? After all its forty plus years old. Great classics but they do get tired. Was the sales description misleading ?
Shop looks great. Sounds like your one of us, a gear head at heart. Looking forward to more follow ups.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Looks like great beginnings. I'm buying a couple project cars because prices on them is getting out of reach and fewer available. So the garage is nearly packed and it is time to rebuild.
Wondering why you said you were disappointed when you received the car. Was there rust, panel changes, missing parts, or bad workmanship under the paint ? After all its forty plus years old. Great classics but they do get tired. Was the sales description misleading ?
Shop looks great. Sounds like your one of us, a gear head at heart. Looking forward to more follow ups.
I know its not bad far as a project car but that wasn't originally after. Before purchasing my nova I had said to the importer here in Australia that I wanted a body that had no rust (whether original or repaired) I didn't mind. The other couple things I asked for is bucket seats and manual trans. Having a big block was preferred but not required. It had to be in a good drive-able condition.

When my nova was deliver to my workshop. It wouldn't start at all not even with jumper cables. The dissy was half off and the battery was crap even though it looked new. My wife went and got a new battery and it took about an hour all up to get its to start. Here in Aus, if you import a vehicle it must be in running condition before it can be released from the transport company.

My wife and I borrowed a dealer plate from a mate so we could take it for a short drive the following day. It didn't sound good but though we'd take it down the road and back (4 miles) which it had over heated and the radiator cracked. It was knocking on 3 cylinders, the transmission cross-member wasn't bolted down so the shifter was slapping the tunnel. The driver side header was smashed in the steering box. All the rust or panel damage was covered with a quarter inch of body filler. The list goes on. And this is after the guy (inspector of the importer) in NC said they drove it for 30 miles with no issues. I did know that most of the interior needed to be replaced.

Thinking I was getting a good driving as I was told, this was far from the truth.

I paid $25k for my nova, including shipping. It know owes me just shy of $54k and I still don't have a car to drive, Still going to cost another $40k -$60k to finish, not including my labor. :(

The Aussie dollar when I bought the car was better than 1:1 on the currency exchange. Now $1 AUD is only worth 65 cents USD. That and shipping cost and tax makes it all add up quick. :eek:

I know **** happens but yea I got screwed on this one. But lesson learned. And when I am done building my nova, I'll have a really nice car that I will be proud of. :D


Here's a link of all the photos of my nova I've taken so far and it'll get you a bit of the story. Have a look, any input is welcome and appreciated ;)

Always great to be amongst fellow gear heads :devil:

http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/JustinHorsky/slideshow/
 

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I know its not bad far as a project car but that wasn't originally after. Before purchasing my nova I had said to the importer here in Australia that I wanted a body that had no rust (whether original or repaired) I didn't mind. The other couple things I asked for is bucket seats and manual trans. Having a big block was preferred but not required. It had to be in a good drive-able condition.


Dang, I should have sold you my last 72, actually I should have kept it and the other 8 Novas I have owned(lol). It was a zero rust/rot car never had any and had all it's original panels on the car. It could idle all day and ran 11.70s. Now I need another one and seems like it's getting harder to find plus saving the cash, but I will get there.
 

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I paid $25k for my nova, including shipping. It know owes me just shy of $54k and I still don't have a car to drive, Still going to cost another $40k -$60k to finish, not including my labor. :(

The Aussie dollar when I bought the car was better than 1:1 on the currency exchange. Now $1 AUD is only worth 65 cents USD. That and shipping cost and tax makes it all add up quick. :eek:
:eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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Thats a lot of money to put in. But if done you know what you have! I agree with the others, do the metal work yourself. Start with the floor to get a feel for the welder and work towards the more difficult panels.
Ask a lot of questions before you start cutting and welding!
Folks here are so helpful and many of them have loads of practice in replacing sheet metal. Read through the build threads where you can find pics to almost every part you may need to replace!
 

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Where are you getting you panels from? And what are they charging for shipping?
Summit racing. I ordered the AMD panels from summit, but they shipped straight from AMD because summit was out of order.

I ordered my tail light panel and my full quarter at the same time and I guess summit had a shipping error and I wasn't charged freight for the quarter. Quarter - 300$, tail-100$, order total came out to 404$.

Then I ordered a new hood that was AMD from summit as well and it was the hood cost + 100$ freight shipping charge.

The reason I chose summit is because they came out to be the cheapest with shipping. I looked around a lot of places and summit is usually the cheapest.

You will just have to look around. Also maybe there's a classics shop some where on Australia that sells panels. I just checked summit shipping charge to Australia.

If you wanted to go completely all out and order brand new panels that are rotted out(which I wouldn't recommend and I'll tell you why.) all at once... this is what you get from Summit. [Driver fender, Driver and Pass Door shells, Pass Quarter, Tail panel, and 2 replacement floor pans.]

That came out to 1700$ in parts and then 3600$ in shipping charge.





The reason I wouldn't advise at ordering all new parts is because the originals (If salvageable) are best. For instance your Pass quarter at the back of your wheel well corner You possibly make a pretty decent patch panel. Or instead of paying 300$ for a quarter. You could pay about 50$ just for that corner-ish area.


Over all what I'm trying to say is there is plenty that is salvageable and you wont need to buy a lot of those parts if any.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Summit racing. I ordered the AMD panels from summit, but they shipped straight from AMD because summit was out of order.

I ordered my tail light panel and my full quarter at the same time and I guess summit had a shipping error and I wasn't charged freight for the quarter. Quarter - 300$, tail-100$, order total came out to 404$.

Then I ordered a new hood that was AMD from summit as well and it was the hood cost + 100$ freight shipping charge.

The reason I chose summit is because they came out to be the cheapest with shipping. I looked around a lot of places and summit is usually the cheapest.

You will just have to look around. Also maybe there's a classics shop some where on Australia that sells panels. I just checked summit shipping charge to Australia.

If you wanted to go completely all out and order brand new panels that are rotted out(which I wouldn't recommend and I'll tell you why.) all at once... this is what you get from Summit. [Driver fender, Driver and Pass Door shells, Pass Quarter, Tail panel, and 2 replacement floor pans.]

That came out to 1700$ in parts and then 3600$ in shipping charge.





The reason I wouldn't advise at ordering all new parts is because the originals (If salvageable) are best. For instance your Pass quarter at the back of your wheel well corner You possibly make a pretty decent patch panel. Or instead of paying 300$ for a quarter. You could pay about 50$ just for that corner-ish area.


Over all what I'm trying to say is there is plenty that is salvageable and you wont need to buy a lot of those parts if any.
Yea I understand what you are saying. There is a few issues with the patch panels as I can not get the inner braces for the fenders, the doors are rotted on both sides, and the quarters are 50/50 ..... won't now still I remove them.
That and a whole bunch more with the floors and trunk floor.

I figure if I do it once and do it right, then I know I will be driving a car that is 100% of the best it can be. Also if in the fact I ever sell my nova, someone won't be getting dodgy repair job. Not like I ever want to sell it though ;)

I have been looking at freight forwarding companies to see if I can get the shipping any better. I can ship a whole car for less than $2000. Just trying to work out the individual parts.

Probably will get most of my stuff through summit or classic industries.

I have family in california where I'm from so I can always get it to them first. Just a logistical nightmare.:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 

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I could fix all that with patches. I'm not sure why you think a patch panel is a "dodgy repair" though. Remember, most reproduction sheet metal (~22ga) is thinner than the original stuff (18-20ga), so while you are replacing an entire panel, it will be flimsier.

You can make a patch panel pretty easy for the inner door there, a tear drop mallet and a bag. A small bench top english wheel would come in handy too.

That little inner fender brace was the reason the fenders would rot out there, road debris, moisture, crap would get caught and just sit there. If you want to put a brace back, you can make one out of sheet metal.

You are gonna have a little bit of filler on the car no matter what, I wouldn't worry about it. Hell Foose and those guys cover the entire car in a coat of filler and block it flat. But they call it "surfacing", it sounds fancier. :D
 

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Aside from the door frame I don't see anything in bad shape, I would go the patch panel route especially with the fenders.

The door frame can still be repaired with patches, you will just need what Jeremy is recommending (English wheel, mallet and bag). Due to your logistical problem I would weigh out the cost in both routes, how much for new door, panels etc + shipping or buying the tools and steel locally and making your own patches. Not having the math myself I would think the tools and steel would be the cheaper option. It will take a little more time especially with no experience but it will turn out as good or better. Also be mindful you may still end up needing these tools. Not every replacement panel fits right, in fact every panel I have ever bought needed some type of tweaking or more (usually more...).

Patch panels end up being easier 90% of the time. I only replace panels when style lines/curves are completely shot and it's easier to purchase the panel and splice it in (such as my car.) When I get to my front fenders I will be doing the patch panel route.

Not to make light of your situation but honestly I would have loved to have a car as "clean" as yours is compared to what I'm working on :devil:

Bodywork isn't hard, it's just time consuming and requires patience!
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Bit the bullet!!!

After some research and some talking with the wife. I've decided to buy new sheet metal and use full size panels or complete replacement parts (doors&fenders) instead of trying to patch up the rust I can see.

So since all my family lives in cali, I'll be sending the new bits to my old mans place and storing there till I can get them all on a shipping container bound for my place in Australia. I found that this is going to be the best and less expensive option for me. Just might take 6 months or so to build up the money for this undertaking.

Good news is that I have already order full length replacement passenger floors and the trunk.

I'll try to take some pics of the car in epoxy and the parts or areas I'll be replacing.

On another note.... I setup a build page on facebook and will update things there a bit more, as it is very time consuming to do on here. So only major updates or mods I'll place on this build thread.

https://www.facebook.com/JustinsNovaBuild

SO WACTH THIS SPACE ;)

Cheers

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Started again

Well since today is my birthday .... I decided all I wanted to do today was start working on my nova again.

My brother gave me a welder to use. Had a bit of difficulty with the setup so I will have to go back and tidy up a few welds. I'll grind most of them back to make it all look nice.

Started welding the firewall seam and then modifying the transmission tunnel. Ran out of argon gas so I didn't get to finish. But great to get back to work on the Yeti.

Here's a few pics from today.












http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b532/JustinHorsky/20151228_143053_zpspwzij9rq.jpg







 
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