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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Progess

Well got to hand it to the boys at http://www.speedtechperformance.com/ they got me my new trans tunnel really quick. Send from the USA to Australia within a week. Jay at Speed Tech also sent a couple t-shirts out for my wife and I :)

To say the least .... customer service is outstanding and product quality is excellent.



........................................................................................................

So on to the next bit. Old mate that is suppose to have bead blasted my car has had it for 5 months and not done f*** all with it. So go it brought down to my brother-in-laws place where he has a big enclosed blasting shed.

I get to go over there on monday and do the blasting myself and then get to painters to prime it. I think bare metal is the best starting point ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Well I back to work on my Nova. Been away on vacation for a couple months. :D

Didn't do much on the car before I left. So now that I'm I thought it would be a good idea to get the body work done. Its currently at one of the classic resto shops for the rust repairs.

And since I had some free time today, I headed over to the paint store.
The guys over there are great. They helped me get all the stuff I need to prep, fill and paint the body.

Hope I can get it right since it going to be my first time using a spray gun. :eek:

Only thing I haven't sorted out yet is what to use for under coating. Lizardskin is what I am thinking. :hiding:

Any of you have thoughts on lizardskin or similar products? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #65

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Wish I could get that shipped here. Unfortunately a lot of the companies don't ship it Australia.

How well has the stuff you used held up..... whatever I use will be going under my nova for daily driver.
I used it on top of the floor pans and then shot Bed liner over it. On the bottom of the floor I used chassis paint and and then shot the tunnel with bed liner. I did put it in the wheel wells then shot bedliner over it again.

I don't think I'd leave any of the lizard skin style products just by themselves. They are all latex based with ceramic micro spheres mixed in, so essentially thick house paint. I'd shoot a rubberized coating over the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I thought of the bed liner stuff but wasn't sure on the sound deadening of it.

But on another note.... the paint and other bits for doing up my Nova :devil:

About $1285 is what I spent on this stuff. I rather take the time and learn how to do the job properly myself, then pay $14k-$16k to have a paint shop do it, as I was quoted.

 

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That has always been my philosophy too, I just finished painting mine! But I don't see a paint gun? Are you gonna brush it on? :D

I have $300 guns and $15 guns, and there is very little difference in how they spray, both will paint a car fine for a hobbyist. Experience has taught me you can never have enough paint guns, always have a CLEAN backup gun for anything you are spraying.

Also something like the Dupont PPS system is a life saver for a beginner.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/3M-16001-PPS-Standard-Collar/dp/B000AO0MTA[/ame]

You'll need the hard cup outer shell, liners, lids and gun adapter, but well worth it, you can spray upside down and at any angle without paint dripping out the top of the cup or not spraying at all.


Rage gold is good, but Rage Ultra sands better, best filler on the market IMO. Likely depending on how bad the body is (or how good you are), you'll need two gallons anyway. For a fill primer I really like Evercoat Feather Fill Polyester primer. It is good stuff.

Are you doing a base clear job?
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Yup I do have a gun. It's a hvlp. I be painting with a base coat and clear 2k system.

When the body comes back from the panel beaters it will be all in epoxy primer. So I can go straight to skimming the body with filler and blocking it back to get it smooth as possible.

I just need to pick up a second gun for primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Very Nice!

You'll need to seal off the bottom (where sun is shining) to keep any debris from flying in. You'll also need fans, some sort of intake filter, and lights hung at the bottom of the walls will definitely help.
Where the light is shining in, there are roller doors there. This shed was made to fit 5 cars side by side.

I had to turn all the electricity off when I was washing it with the hose. :)

Didn't want to get ZAPPED!
 

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Discussion Starter #74
More parts :)

Been a slow start after getting back for vacation. But I did manage to start ordering some more new parts.

I have on the way, a billet steel flywheel and misc T56 transmission parts, supplied by my local Tremec distributor Mal Wood. Great shop to deal with and very helpful and knowledgeable. Definitely getting my new trans from them :)

Also coming from back home in the good old USA. T56 Nova crossmember and mount from Speedtech Performance.

I need to say that Jay over at Speedtech is one of the nicest fella's to deal with. He's assisted me on 2 orders now and many more to come!

Should have some pics up for you guys over the next week or so.
Some parts are being shipped from the USA to AUS where I live these days ;)

Links: for Mal Wood's and Speedtech Performance

http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/

http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=15/mode=cat/cat15.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
When it rains....... it poors

Well sand blasting is all finished and to say the least ..... I'm a fair bit disheartened. Found out I need to replace a lot of panels.

The short list, full floor pan, trunk pan, rocker panels, door skins, rear outer wheel wells, rear quaters, and a few other bits.

Not sure if I should let the body shop do the work as its roughly going to cost $30k including parts or attempt to do it myself. I've never done any body work and fairly scared to do it. I can weld, but not great at it.

Not sure what to do :confused:

Here are a few pics of what has been unearthed. :(









 

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Discussion Starter #77
Why not do some small patch panels instead of replacing the whole thing? They don't look that bad.
Unfortunately the pics I posted don't show all the other bits that need repair.

The body shop quoted $20k for labour and I would need to supply the panels as there are not something stocked here in Australia.

Just wondering...... how hard it would be to do most of the work myself?
 

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Unfortunately the pics I posted don't show all the other bits that need repair.

The body shop quoted $20k for labour and I would need to supply the panels as there are not something stocked here in Australia.

Just wondering...... how hard it would be to do most of the work myself?
Based on your pics the only thing I'd buy would be the lower quarter panel patches. I'd fix the tail panel and door skins, I dont know what your floors look like there aren't any pics. If you had all that metal replaced you'd be wasting lots of $$$.

Its not "hard", it just takes time. The bits you can't see, floors, trunk, wheel wells, are just labor intensive as their finishing needs only to be good enough for carpet or undercoat, anyone who can weld can do them. Quarters are a little harder because everything has to line up. But remember you don't have to do an entire quarter if your damage is only at the bottom, they sell partials, which are easier.

If you get some time, you can take a look at my build, I did several small patch panels to save my fenders and quarters, I also rebuilt the windshield channel. I patched the tail panel as well, the package tray, and cowl too. I replaced both sides of the floor boards and the tow boards and part of the firewall. I replaced the trunk floor too.

You can do it man, save the $$$.
 

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To add onto commanders comment I also posted pictures of panel replacement and Did a few full panel replacements. I did a full quarter and full tail panel replacement. So if you end up deciding to do some full on panels instead of patches there are plenty of pictures and what not here on this site. It is VERY do-able by yourself.

AMD is usually considered as the best parts to replace 3rd Gen parts. Every panel I ordered came from AMD and had very minimal fitment issues I had to address. I also ordered from summit racing because of their cost of parts and shipping was cheaper. If you check this out you can ask about the rates to ship to where you live. http://www.summitracing.com/freight
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Thanks for the input fellas. I agree with you guys as I may as well do the sheet metal myself. Saving the money and taking the time to do it right is just going to be how I'll do it ;)

Pic of what the floor pans are like. :(



I did look through both your build threads and I am impressed. Hope I can do it as well as you guys did.

But before I start doing the rest of the sheet metal repairs, I'm going to finish buying up my driveline and suspension parts. Along with a good mig welder.

Speaking of parts...... these showed up this week. :D






 
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