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Man thats pretty sweet, I put all my stuff in to see, I will run 10.78 seconds on the 1/4 mile. I havent even gotten my car done yet and I want to take it to the drag strip or on the highway which ever one involves in high speed pursuits.
 

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Why do you say that:confused:
 

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I have dynoed (engine dyno) both our engines. My wife's car with an automatic trans was not even close to the actual ET it has run. But mine with a 4 speed has run within 3 hundreths and 1/2 MPH of actual time predicted by the calculator.
 

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It's close and off at the same time. I put in the specs for my father's car, and it was almost dead on. It said 9.01 @ 150 with 4.57 being the perfect gear. The car has been 9.05 @ 150 with 4.56 gears. However, I plugged in my specs, which is like 3300 lbs. , 6100 through the stripe, and roughly 475hp. and it said 10.69 @ 124. I was hoping my car would go 11.99 if I didn't deep stage and if I footbraked it to like 3500 lol. It doesn't specify flywheel horsepower or horsepower to the wheels, and that's one of the problems with it.
 

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I wish it was a perfect world:p Lets just say its kinda close, but don't bet your last nickle on it:D
 

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Why do you say that
Every combo that I ran in it (with real dyno numbers) was about 8 tenths too quick, and about 5 mph fast. It has my car running 9.60's (I wish!)
A lot of people say 500h.p. in a 3000lb. car will squeak into the 10's with an ideal set-up; this one has it going 10.20's--I don't think so.

I use a program called Virtual Engine Calculator and it gets pretty close with most combos.
 

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It doesn't specify flywheel horsepower or horsepower to the wheels, and that's one of the problems with it.
I tried using rear wheel h.p. and it comes up way too slow; with flywheel horsepower it's too fast.
 

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Motortec magazine had an article about John Hladky's G/S 66 Nova, ran 118 in the quarter with 404 dynoed flywheel horses. I don't know exactly what the car weighs, but a 404 hp 3175# car in this calculator runs 11.10 @ 117.78.
I have to add 60 flywheel hp to get my mph (117) to match my e.t.(11.75), from 370 to 430. All this knowledge and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee most anywhere...
 

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I beleive there is so much more to what ET/MPH a car will run than what is asked that it can never be correct for all cars. For one what width tire you run has alot to do with it as well as how many trick lightweight driveline parts you use how aerodynamic is the vehicle and so forth. I plugged in my numbers and it was 15 hundred faster then I can run in good air and 3 tenths off what I run in bad air. I run a very big tire and I also know a narrower slick will make my car faster plus I could fatten it up and pick up. I'd just look at it as another device you give a guy an idea of what it can do. It did hit the gear ratio right even when I swapped the RPMs around. It needs to ask about trans ratios, number of gears, converter size and stall. I'm rambling ain"t I.......LOL. RM
 

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I have a question based on this. Why did my car run 11.40 @ 122? Based on this calculator it should have been in the high tens to get that MPH. By this my car could have ran 10.74 at 122.
 

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NHRA stock records show that a 122 mph car is capable of running 10.8 seconds or so in the quarter mile. You're making good power but not putting it to the ground in the first 1/8 mile. This disparity is also common with power adder cars.
 

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Based on this calculator it should have been in the high tens to get that MPH. By this my car could have ran 10.74 at 122.
The calculator I use shows 122mph around 11.04

All this knowledge and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee most anywhere...
Not at Starbucks!!

NHRA stock records show that a 122 mph car is capable of running 10.8 seconds or so in the quarter mile.
Those guys defy all the laws of physics!! I have a friend whose 305 "stocker" blows my car away, and it's about 700lbs heavier! All the stuff those guys do "legally" is crazy. The guy that builds my transmissions races a Stock Eliminator car--he built a fixture for his lathe to cut down the piston rings(they have to run stock width rings) They don't last very long, but there is very little drag, which makes for more power. He did some of the tricks to my current trans (bearings where the bushings used to be) but not all the lightning he does to his personal stuff. There's not a lot of drum left when he's done with his trans.
 

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Actually there is no rocket science in Stock Eliminator. Its making the most of your available horsepower. Lets use my Wife's 80 Malibu. The car is 3300 pounds with driver in legal L/SA trim. Its uses a 305 4bbl. The engine has dyno'd over 350 horsepower. No ported heads. Q-jet carb with a factory cast iron intake. .357/.390 lift camshaft. It uses a 5100 stall convertor with 5.38 gears. We also use a Turbo 200 transmission. At Mission this year it ran [email protected] MPH, 1.53 60 foot time. A lot of the power is strictly due to the the attention to detail of a complete matched combination between the proper convertor stall with the correct rear gear ratio. I have raced a lot of years and have had a lot of racers ask how we can go so fast with the strict rules we are supposed to follow. The only thing I always say is that if you science out your car, run with the perfect convertor stall and the rear final drive ratio and your suspension works correctly, you will be fast. The probem is, is that we live in a "bolt on" world. As a performance enthusiest, we rely on all of the aftermarket vendors for the best and fastest part. I wonder for example how many racers buy that trick set of aluminum heads, bolt them on and think they have the trickest fastest piece. I also wonder if anybody who buys an out of the box set of heads and actually puts them on a flow bench to see if the advertised flow figures are what the manufacture claims. With the stock class we will take 10 sets of cylinder heads and flow them finding the best 2. We will dyno trying 5 different camshafts. When we find the perfect (or at least whats within our budget) combination, its in the car and off to the track.
 

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gstocker, Just out of curiosity, do you have a particular brand of convertor you have had better luck with than the rest?
 

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I've tried A1, TCI and Munsinger. The present convertor is a Munsinger. Mike Munsinger I have found works well with you to get the stall you need. I think most reputable brands are good. Its just getting the best stall for your peticular combination.
 
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