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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got my holley to stop leaking:confused:Now I have encountered 2 more problems(this is a holley 670 street avenger on a 355)1st...now matter what I do I cant get the choke to open?I have no idea why?I adjusted it rich..I adjusted it lean...nothing??2nd...I cant get the curb idle to drop down below 1500 rpms??The idle adjustment screw is not even touching(not sure if the 1500rpms has to do with the closed choke..its actually open a 1/4)any one have any ideas?Be patient this is my first holley.thanks bm
 

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Is your throttle linkage in adjustment?
Do the throttle blades hit your intake?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is your throttle linkage in adjustment?
Do the throttle blades hit your intake?
This is a used carb..when I got it the choke butterfly was closed?Is this correct?Its an electric choke.Can't I dial in the carb without the electric choke being hooked up?Can you elaborate about the throttle linkage being in adjustment?Im pretty sure the blades are not hitting...its an eddy square bore intake.thanks bm
 

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With no power to the electric choke it would take a hella long time for the choke to come off from just engine heat.If the choke is still closed it is on the fast Idle cam and you will get no change from the idle speed screw.If you loosen the three srews on the choke heater you should be able to lock the choke open and work fronm there.I do not remember which way to turn it but one way closes the choke tighter and one way opens it up.If you are coming to the BBQ tomorrow I have a pretty good book on Holley tuning that may help you in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With no power to the electric choke it would take a hella long time for the choke to come off from just engine heat.If the choke is still closed it is on the fast Idle cam and you will get no change from the idle speed screw.If you loosen the three srews on the choke heater you should be able to lock the choke open and work fronm there.I do not remember which way to turn it but one way closes the choke tighter and one way opens it up.If you are coming to the BBQ tomorrow I have a pretty good book on Holley tuning that may help you in the future.
Hey brian,
thats my problem..the choke.loosening those 3 screws have no effect?left..right..nothing..The butterfly just stays closed?I have the electric choke now hooked up...nothing...still stays closed.I did adjust the float levels..the back was good the front was low.Is there any chance that electric choke unit going bad?this is bugging me:mad::mad:
ps I wont be coming to the bbq...I have alot of work to do.bm
 

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Take the 3 screws out and remove the cover. Make sure the heat spring is still attached and not broken.Also, make sure the choke rod moves freely and nothing is stuck or binding. If you losen the 3 screws and keep tunring the housing towards 'lean' it sould eventually open the choke. I turn them untill they open the choke then turn them back just enough to let the choke fully close then lock it down.
 

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loosening those 3 screws have no effect?left..right..nothing..The butterfly just stays closed?I
Hold the throttle part way open while turning the choke housing, sometimes it won't change with tension on it. It should go wide open if you turn it all the way to LEAN, then the idle will come down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hold the throttle part way open while turning the choke housing, sometimes it won't change with tension on it. It should go wide open if you turn it all the way to LEAN, then the idle will come down.
I will try that and report back.bm
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so I took the choke cover off...there is an arm in there with a plunger....the arm and plunger will not move?any ideas?Did I buy a broken carb?Between the eddy and this holley Im going crazy:mad:I'm about to take a hammer to both of them!!I have never had this many problems with any carbs ever:confused:rant over
Also does the sping need to be wound or is it replaced in the unwound/normal position?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is a reply from the previous owner...it seems he had problems with the choke staying shut....I am having the same problem...the piston/plunger inside the electric choke is frozen(it will not move)?Anyone ever heard of this before?bm

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email from previous owner....Actually it was a trade, I traded for a 750 when I put the 383 in. I had a 355 before and I didn't feel the 670 would be big enough for the new motor. Don't have an answer about the choke, the carb was working fine when I took it off. At one time I did have a problem with the choke sticking closed once in a while, but I worked on the internal choke piston and it was OK after that. I put about 18,000 miles on it.
 

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Bruce,

The linkage is probobly bound up. with the black choke piece removed there are a couple of other screws in the choke housing remove them and the pot metal piece will come off. You should be able to then move the choke butterfly and the linkage joing down to the housing. Clean it all up with carb cleaner and air it dry.

There is a small O-ring between the pot metal choke housing and the main body of the carb. Make sure that is in place when reinstalling the housing. As you tighten the housing back on the main body, make sure the butterfly and linkage still moves. Then when you put the cover back on the spring must engage the the choke mechinism. When rotating the choke cover from "rich to lean" the butterfly will open and close. If you do not want the choke to work just turn it to lean.

To adjust when cold(good luck in this weather), turn it to rich unitl the butterfly just closes. That should be fine for a warm weather adjustment. Connect 12V switched to the connector and make sure there is a connection from the 2nd terminal to ground.

There are several types of Holley's electric choke depending on the carbs age.

If the butterfly is closed as you say, it will be on the high idle cam and that adjustment is on the same side of the carb as the choke housing(way down at the bottom) on the main shaft.

Good luck!:cool:

Denis
 

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follow the choke rod that's connected to the choke plate to see if something is binding. When I had my 670 I disconnected the choke completly to save me the headaches of that thing sticking on me. After that everything was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bruce,

The linkage is probobly bound up. with the black choke piece removed there are a couple of other screws in the choke housing remove them and the pot metal piece will come off. You should be able to then move the choke butterfly and the linkage joing down to the housing. Clean it all up with carb cleaner and air it dry.

There is a small O-ring between the pot metal choke housing and the main body of the carb. Make sure that is in place when reinstalling the housing. As you tighten the housing back on the main body, make sure the butterfly and linkage still moves. Then when you put the cover back on the spring must engage the the choke mechinism. When rotating the choke cover from "rich to lean" the butterfly will open and close. If you do not want the choke to work just turn it to lean.

To adjust when cold(good luck in this weather), turn it to rich unitl the butterfly just closes. That should be fine for a warm weather adjustment. Connect 12V switched to the connector and make sure there is a connection from the 2nd terminal to ground.

There are several types of Holley's electric choke depending on the carbs age.

If the butterfly is closed as you say, it will be on the high idle cam and that adjustment is on the same side of the carb as the choke housing(way down at the bottom) on the main shaft.

Good luck!:cool:

Denis
Here is what I found out??
I removed the whole choke assembly..
The piston works fine...the choke arm has been bent more then one time by somebody??You can see it...its all wavy with plier marks on it??Its all bent out of wack and I have no Idea what its originally supposed to look like?what am I supposed to do with this thing?Anybody have a choke arm:confused:not a happy camper:confused:bm
 

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This arm and plunger is the choke pull off,it have vacuum through the "o" ring to the main body of the carb.With the heating coil removed this should move freely.If not find out why.



This small set screw controls how much choke pull off you get by limiting how far the piston travels.I wonder if some one ran the screw into the piston jaming it some how.I think I have a choke assy kicking around in the garage somewhere if you need one.



Is it this rod that is jacked up??????
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is why I love steves...so many smart people!!I discovered 2 things....the rod was bent???I bent it back(thanks brian)The plunger was frozen(thanks al) I unstuck it and lubed it up!!Now I just have tune this thing.Thank you everyone(dr denny too) for all your info and insight...Another satified steves customer:Dbm
ps ill have more questions later:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have an unmolested link if you need one.
Maybe...we'll see.
Here are mu initial findings....
The choke plunger still sticks.....I unstuck it to the open position and unhooked it.
I set the float levels so the fuel is right at the bottom of the sight holes.
I set the 2 idle mixture screws per holley web site...i turned them in til they were seated...backed them both out 1 full turn...hooked up the vacuum guage to full manifold.I backed them each out 1/4 turn until I got the highest manifold reading...16 inches mercury.the vacuum guage is surging 16-18.I took her out for a spin.....it stumbles preety good at acceleration...pings alittle....flys at wot...but still gets hot at highway speed:confused:anyone have any suggestions per the info provided.thanks bm
 
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