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I have a Holley 80505 (3310) carb that I want to start tuning. It has a 21 metering plate which is equivelent to a 75 jet. I'm looking for a larger plate, but can't find one. Am I going to have to put a metering block in? It has a black secondary spring. What would I put in if I want them to open just a little sooner. It also has a 31 squirter. what size should I go to if want a little more gas.

I'm wanting to keep it economical on the primaries and build more top end power. It has a slight stumble everytime I give it a little gas. I have played with the timing but haven't cured it.
 

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I have a Holley 80505 (3310) carb that I want to start tuning. It has a 21 metering plate which is equivelent to a 75 jet. I'm looking for a larger plate, but can't find one. Am I going to have to put a metering block in? It has a black secondary spring. What would I put in if I want them to open just a little sooner. It also has a 31 squirter. what size should I go to if want a little more gas.

I'm wanting to keep it economical on the primaries and build more top end power. It has a slight stumble everytime I give it a little gas. I have played with the timing but haven't cured it.
With the little 350 in my car I had to play with my 3310 to get it right. I left the metering plate in mine. i dont know that you will see any gains by going with a secondary metering plate with jets unless you are running lean on the secondaries now. I had to go with a 35 nozzle and the long yellow secondary spring. No stumbles anymore. All I can say is you will have to play with it a bit.

-dan
 

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The stuble is not jet related.

Get a quick change vacuum secondary kit and a larger nozzle.

Quick change kit.
Quick change cover kit Part#20-59
You will need spring kit part# 20-13

Your primary nozzle should be a #31 move up to a #35
Part # 121-35 (this is the tube nozzle type)
Part# 121-135 does not have the nozzles

Good luck
AL
 

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I moved up the shooter and pump cam and it fixed the stumble on my 4160:)

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. I'll start the nozzle and quick change spring kit. is the nozzle and squirter the same thing?

Your primary nozzle should be a #31 move up to a #35
Part # 121-35 (this is the tube nozzle type)
Part# 121-135 does not have the nozzles

Good luck
AL
Al, what is the differenct in the above two part numbers?
 

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Thanks guys. I'll start the nozzle and quick change spring kit. is the nozzle and squirter the same thing?
Al, what is the differenct in the above two part numbers?

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is one type better than the other of should I replace it with the same type?
 

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Is one type better than the other of should I replace it with the same type?
I have never had a difference.

Not to say there is not.

Just gives you a option if one is out of stock.

Al
 

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I had one of those carbs years back and spent a year tuning it, here are some tips that worked: drilled 1/8 hole in each primary butterfly in the down run to restore idle , installed 50cc pump and cam kit, that worked great! next drilled out squirter and bolt for more fuel, installed secondary metering block, but was not needed, as for the vs , get a quick change kit put in the weakest spring and take out the check ball and change the powervalve 1 lower than your vaccum reading at idle. also you can use the manual choke as a tuning tool while you drive. hope some of these tips help.
 

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vs daze

Have you put a vacume gauge on this carb and set your idle mixture screws ??? I'd go about 1/4 turn more open ( turned out ) than the highest vacume reading.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUrCP_KPLYY


Does this vehicle have power brakes ??

Descibe your timing settings and let us know what ur doing in that area.

Check the gap between the accelerator pump arm and the lever on the pump itself. Its where you see the spring with a nut with a bolt threaded through and the bottom of this bolt makes contact with the pump lever. Holley says something like .010 gap right there at idle. I like them with no clearance right there but make sure there is no pressure on the pump lever either at idle.

most 750 vs carbs i've messed with like the orange cam with the 31 squirters , but i'm sure each application is different
here is ya a video on that too

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiRIfcrc2yA

I like to drill the throttle plates too ,, but it only works if you need it.

I've took the check ball out of a couple vs carbs vacume canister , one race and one street. The street car bogged on a hard pull , so we put it back in. I didn't get a chance to take a look at the secondarys to see if there was a problem ( this wasn't my car ) but we put the check ball back in and the stumble was gone. My race car , loved the check ball removed.

I'd get the spring kit for the vacume canister and a new diaphram to make sure it doesn't have any cracks or leaks.

Since you say you are experiencing a stumble off idle , I would look at the power valve too , if you have one rated too high , you'll have a hole in your fuel delivery waiting on the valve to open. You need a vacume gage here too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vKlAnKdcB4
 

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The 3310 was one of the best carbs I ever had. Always set it and forget it for me. BUT....I do like to mess with things and hated prying the secondary plate off the main body so I pitched it and added a metering block. Also added a light spring and got away with a 31 squirter. Much easier to mess with this way.....
 

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i like them too

the 750 vs is the un-sung hero for sure.

I'd put the metering block kit in the back and forget about those plates if it wuz me. Been there done that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the input guys. I've got the secondary springs on order and a quick change kit. According to Holley literature, the black spring that is in there starts opening around 2800 RPM and will not open the secondaries completely. I've also order a 35 nozzle. They are easy enought to change and if it bogs, I can go back to the 31. Next step will be an O2 sensor before I mess with the metering plate. I will let you know how it works out.
 

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dvd

If you dont have it get the Holley tuning dvd from Holly. Its a great help, step by step with good video.
 
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