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Discussion Starter #1
how do you guys feel about them i have searched as much i as i can and i have seen its this much of one thing and this much of a nother thing.we are building a ladder bar 10.5 tire class car out of the 1975 nova.I want a motor that will run very strong but also make a full year of racing without a rebuild.820hp+ is the goal as im looking to be one of the top 10 10.5 tire cars around iowa.im tring to pick a starting point for the motor build there is just so many ways to go.i know i will be running a logging system but i dont know if i want efi or a crab yet :eek: I under stand how all of them work somewhat but seem about the same good from all and not sure what is best for me?
 

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Picking what to run is entirly up to you. Everyone runs what they want for there own reasons. I myself run a carb w/n2o and alot of compression. Works very well. Others will chime in and give there opp. But in the end it is your desision to make. Good luck.




P.s. A well built motor wont have to be rebuilt before the season ends. N/a. Nitrous/ or turbo. Esp if your wanting to stay around the 800 -900 hp range. I go two seasons before i touch my motors and normaly just go through and freshen them up.
 

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how do you guys feel about them i have searched as much i as i can and i have seen its this much of one thing and this much of a nother thing.we are building a ladder bar 10.5 tire class car out of the 1975 nova.I want a motor that will run very strong but also make a full year of racing without a rebuild.820hp+ is the goal as im looking to be one of the top 10 10.5 tire cars around iowa.im tring to pick a starting point for the motor build there is just so many ways to go.i know i will be running a logging system but i dont know if i want efi or a crab yet :eek: I under stand how all of them work somewhat but seem about the same good from all and not sure what is best for me?
I believe you need to rethink your application. A 820hp car is not going to cut it in a 10.5 tire class. Double that hp number and you are getting closer to being able to be competitive. You will have to run in the low 7's or even 6's to make the field. If there's another 10.5 class that is different, I retract my statement. A good data logger such as RacePak will cost you another $4K to $7K depending on how many sensors you have etc.

We run a high compression aluminum 632ci nitrous engine that is well over double the power level you are talking about and it ran all season before a refresh, so it can be done if you keep a good eye on things. They all are a lot of work and have expensive parts. The more power you make the harder it is on the rest of the drivetrain as well. Do your homework before taking a direction but once you decide which way to go, stick with it.

You may want to start out in a little easier class but just be prepared for what's ahead if you decide to stick with the 10.5 direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the 10.5 tire class in iowa is not that fast most run high 7's in the 1/8th my probe runs 8.3's in the 1/8th :) i fully understand i will not be the fastest
 

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I think you might a little off on this? I know at Eddyville (would guess this to be the track you race at) is having a 10.5 race today and I know of 3 cars from my area are going 1 has been low 8'S and the others have been in the 9's in the 1/4 mile. I know there are faster cars around here than that.
Brian

the 10.5 tire class in iowa is not that fast most run high 7's in the 1/8th my probe runs 8.3's in the 1/8th :) i fully understand i will not be the fastest
 

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the 10.5 tire class in iowa is not that fast most run high 7's in the 1/8th my probe runs 8.3's in the 1/8th :) i fully understand i will not be the fastest
High 7's in the 1/8th?...surely that cannot be right...mid to high 4's or at least low 5's in the 1/8th would be more like it. Are you positive you aren't thinking of some other class? High 7's in the 1/4 would be more the norm.
 
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