Help! New engine problem

318 Views 19 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Sweet Pea, 5 d ago

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · 6 d ago

So, I was getting the Nova out for the first time this year. It had no trouble cranking per usual, let it get to temp, put it in gear, and head out. It made the trip down my driveway just as normal ( 1/4 mile driveway) turned out into the road, went 100 feet, and bam...died. it was like it didn't have fuel, but it did have plenty. So I was able to fire it up, but it runs like dammit, and you have to stay on the gas or it will die. I drained all of the gas, and replaced the fuel filter to no avail.
So the engine is a Blueprint 383 that I just last year hit 500 miles on. It has ran awesome until this deal happened. So everything is basically brand new, so I'm at a loss. Could it be electrical? Like something having to do with the hei,, So that it's not firing like it should? I'll answer any questions in order to diagnose the problem. Thanks guys

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

RifRaf

· #2 · 6 d ago

First, check all of the carb's vacuum hoses (and the base of the carb) for vacuum leaks.

Some dirt could have gotten stuck in the carb's needle and seat, causing the engine to flood... and die (this happened to me several years ago). When the engine dies, remove the air cleaner and see if you can easily/readily smell gas.

One other thing to try is to remove the fuel tank's gas cap and see if the engine runs better. If so, you have a gas cap/tank that is not venting properly.

Reactions: 1

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #3 · 6 d ago

RifRaf said:
First, check all of the carb's vacuum hoses (and the base of the carb) for vacuum leaks.

Some dirt could have gotten stuck in the carb's needle and seat, causing the engine to flood... and die (this happened to me several years ago). When the engine dies, remove the air cleaner and see if you can easily/readily smell gas.

One other thing to try is to remove the fuel tank's gas cap and see if the engine runs better. If so, you have a gas cap/tank that is not venting properly.

I was thinking the needle and seat may have got some trash in it, due to the abruptness of the problem. I'll definitely check the cap/tank, and vacuum. Thanks for the response

Reactions: 1

RifRaf

· #4 · 6 d ago

A couple more things to check... make sure the distributor hold-down clamp (at the base of the distributor) is still tight and the distributor does not move. If you have a timing light, check and confirm your initial timing @ idle.

Also remove the distributor cap and confirm that the rotor is still tightly attached/screwed in place. When re-installing the distributor cap, be sure all of the cap's hold-down "J" screws are securely in place and all of the spark plug wires are fully pushed into the cap.

Ernietech

· #5 · 6 d ago

RifRaf said:
A couple more things to check... make sure the distributor hold-down clamp (at the base of the distributor) is still tight and the distributor does not move. If you have a timing light, check and confirm your initial timing @ idle.

Also remove the distributor cap and confirm that the rotor is still tightly attached/screwed in place. When re-installing the distributor cap, be sure all of the cap's hold-down "J" screws are securely in place and all of the spark plug wires are fully pushed into the cap.

What carb??

Redrider66SS

· #6 · 5 d ago

you said you have to stay on the gas or it will die. kind of sounds like a problem i had with my holly 600. the engine ran great to the car show but when i started it wouldn't idle an had to keep the engine at 2000-2100 to keep running. the power valve in the carb died. my friend helped fix the problem.

drm101

· #7 · 5 d ago

I'm with Rif Raf. Crap in the needle and seat. The blown power valve would do it too.

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #8 · 5 d ago

Ernietech said:
What carb??

Holley 750

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #9 · 5 d ago

Redrider66SS said:
you said you have to stay on the gas or it will die. kind of sounds like a problem i had with my holly 600. the engine ran great to the car show but when i started it wouldn't idle an had to keep the engine at 2000-2100 to keep running. the power valve in the carb died. my friend helped fix the problem.

Yep. And when I'm on the gas to keeping it running, it's very rough

lwlevens

· #10 · 5 d ago (Edited)

Sounds like a carburetor problem, maybe the choke is stuck.Check your plugs and plug wires.

Ernietech

· #11 · 5 d ago

Sweet Pea said:
Holley 750

Start it keep it running as low as you can from under the hood look down in the carb if fuel is running out the venturies It's flooding most likely from needle and seats. Can be front or rear check both barrels. Holley needle and seats are a minor pia. But could also be caused by sediment or dirt in the fuel. Ernie.

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #12 · 5 d ago

Ernietech said:
Start it keep it running as low as you can from under the hood look down in the carb if fuel is running out the venturies It's flooding most likely from needle and seats. Can be front or rear check both barrels. Holley needle and seats are a minor pia. But could also be caused by sediment or dirt in the fuel. Ernie.

Thanks for the reply brother. I'm gonna check that out.

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #13 · 5 d ago

lwlevens said:
Sounds like a carburetor problem, maybe the choke is stuck.Check your plugs and plug wires.

Wires are good. Need to pull the plugs though. I dont think it's the choke, because it does the same thing now, even if the engine is cold.

Unka-Boo

· #14 · 5 d ago

I'd 2nd that it's a bad power valve, especially if it's been sitting awhile, the diaphams will dry out and crack.

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #15 · 5 d ago

Unka-Boo said:
I'd 2nd that it's a bad power valve, especially if it's been sitting awhile, the diaphams will dry out and crack.

So, could I replace the needle and seat, and power valve alone, or do I need to go ahead and rebuild the entire carburetor, giving that the carb only has 500 or so miles?

Unka-Boo

· #16 · 5 d ago

Sweet Pea said:
So, could I replace the needle and seat, and power valve alone, or do I need to go ahead and rebuild the entire carburetor, giving that the carb only has 500 or so miles?

You can just swap out those...depending on carb, kit may be more cost effective than individual parts though. Model #?

lwlevens

· #17 · 5 d ago

If you know anyone maybe swap out carbs and see if it does the same thing, if it doesn't then you can eliminate that it isn't the carb. If it does the same thing then I'd get a whole rebuild kit.

67 canso sd

· #18 · 5 d ago

Pull float bowl level plugs out, if fuel runs out stuck needle and seat… or sunk float. 2 min check to rule out… just remember IF you are flooding and over fuelling check your oil level make sure your oil isn’t diluted.

Reactions: 1

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #19 · 5 d ago

Unka-Boo said:
You can just swap out those...depending on carb, kit may be more cost effective than individual parts though. Model #?

It's a 3310. And yes, the cost for a whole kit would be cheaper, but I would use what I need to keep from stripping it all the way down, if that would safice.

Reactions: 1

Sweet Pea

Discussion Starter · #20 · 5 d ago

Thank you guys again for all your help!!

1 - 20 of 20 Posts