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Discussion Starter #1
A little history. When I was a kid I pulled off the column shifter and went with a floor shifter but never bothered to make any changes to the neutral safety switch. Fast forward 15 years. I want to get her started up again and have everything wired up but I can't get any power to the starter. Can anyone tell me what the neutral safety switch looks like on a '73? I am thinking the female connection with purple and purple/white that connects toward the bottom of the steering column. Is this right? I tried to "jump" it but that did not work either. All the wiring looks real good and clean and it worked last time it ran 15 years ago :rolleyes:. Any suggestions? I can still turn the "sleeve" on the steerling column and move the orange gear indicator and I remember that had to be in "P' to start the car when I had the floor shifter in.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!
 

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my car was not starting today either. I also thought it was the neutral safety switch but it turned out to be a bad remote start solenoid.

now, one thing I did learn on this site(d-man) is that with the floor shift converted cars, the neck still moves and can trigger the nss. not explaining it well. but you have to twistthe neck on the steering column all the way clockwise(or is it counter clockwise) or it wont start.

try that see if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good info. I did have the starter tested and it did work. I have tried to turn the collar on the steering column in each position, no luck. I am getting power to the fuse box, it just doesn't seem to get back out to the firewall. Is there a way to "jump" the switch? I guess at the end of the day I need to know how that circuit closes to send power back out to the purple wire leading to the solenoid.
 

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yes, you could always just connect that purple wire to a cheap push button switch but I would make sure the NSS is working first.

have you tested the end of the purple wire to see if its getting voltage when you turn the key?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How do I test the NSS? the purple wire is not getting juice while on the solenoid. It just seems like the steering column collar is not closing the circuit. I would say the switch is bad but it is in good shape and worked when the car came off the road years ago.
 

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How do I test the NSS? the purple wire is not getting juice while on the solenoid. It just seems like the steering column collar is not closing the circuit. I would say the switch is bad but it is in good shape and worked when the car came off the road years ago.
I "think" the NSS is an unpowered cicuit. its either on or off. so I would check the points to see if there is continuity.

I found this on the subject
http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/14273/css/14273_59.htm
 

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jump together under the dash in the neutral switch wires for the starter to work. Look for the large purple wire and purple with white stripe.

You will have 4 wires, 2 plugs each going to the NNS, 2 or for "start" 2 are for the "backup lights".

Jump the purple & purple/white wire and this will bypass the NNS switch.

AL
 

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I had the same issue - I joined the purple wires with a switch under the dash. Acts as a surrogate anti-theft device.
 

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the nss should start the car in park AND neutral. You might try this:

turn the key to start, and then rotate the column through its entire range. You should be albe to find the 'sweet spot'.
 

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I just tested the switch on my floor shifter and its a pretty simple piece. in neutral and park it was showing continuity and in drive or reverse it showed nothing.

I would do that test on yours.

mine was pretty difficult to adjust- if it worked in P and N, then it would also show drive, and if I got it adjusted in D and R, it wouldnt work in P or N. so, my aftermarket piece needs careful adjustment. maybe you should test yours and make sure it has not worked itself loose or something
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks CJ. I am getting closer but just can't solve the puzzle. At this point I think it has to be a bad switch or something as simple as a fuse. My entire fuse box has power except for the little one at the bottom that does say IGN above it. Problem is, I just don't know if that is the correct fuse for the ignition and whether or not it should be hot at all times. As far as the switch goes, I took it off the column and noticed the slider. I also noticed the pink wire supplies power to the switch and no matter what position I have that slider none of the other terminals on the switch gets power. Does that mean the switch is bad????
 

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Thanks CJ. I am getting closer but just can't solve the puzzle. At this point I think it has to be a bad switch or something as simple as a fuse. My entire fuse box has power except for the little one at the bottom that does say IGN above it. Problem is, I just don't know if that is the correct fuse for the ignition and whether or not it should be hot at all times. As far as the switch goes, I took it off the column and noticed the slider. I also noticed the pink wire supplies power to the switch and no matter what position I have that slider none of the other terminals on the switch gets power. Does that mean the switch is bad????
hi,

I believe the IGN fuse is only hot when the key is in the run position.

I dont think the NSS is powered, I'll have to look at the factory one tomorrow, but you should be able to test whether its working with a multimeter.set it to measure resistance (ohms) and it should let you know if it is working or not when you click the switch/move the slider.

do you have a multimeter? harbor freight sells one for $3.99 make sure it works before you leave the store lol. I bought two one was DOA
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again CJ. Is the ignition fuse the little one ('73)? I have a manual but it does not indicate which is for the ignition. The pink wire definitely supplies power to the switch and I would expect it to send power to the backup lights when the slider hits "R" and I would also expect it to send power to the purple/purple-white wires when the slider hits "P" or "N". does that make sense?
 

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Yes this is correct with the key in the on position.:yes:

If you want to by pass it to test it, put a cotter pin in the purple plug to join both sides and see if the car will start, be careful though the cotter pin will now be live.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Taz. I did try to jump it but it still did not work bringing me back to the fuse question. On a '73 which fuse is the ignition fuse? Is it the little one at the bottom of the fuse box?
 

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I don't think there is a fuse for the ignition, there may be a fuseable link, I know it's under the hood, but not sure where on the 73 models. Hopefully someone can chime in, Tsimpson may be able to help you he has a 73 or 4, you might want to send him a PM.
 

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I don't think there is a fuse for the ignition, there may be a fuseable link, I know it's under the hood, but not sure where on the 73 models. Hopefully someone can chime in, Tsimpson may be able to help you he has a 73 or 4, you might want to send him a PM.
All had a fusible link type wire for Point ignition systems.
No Hei till 1975

Al
 

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Anyone have any pics of the nss? I don't know if I have one and since its been so long, can't remember if I ever had an issue. thanks. Also looking for diagram of the upper steering column components but am still searching. Will post if I can't find what I need. Basically, the area where the ignition lock engages that brass gear thing with the long rod to the switch. I have a few spring things that popped out and now I need to see how they properly reinstall.
 

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My first question would be, do you have power on the purple wire coming from the fuse panel,

If you do not have the power there with the key in the on position you will have to figure out why.

The nss is not in play if there is no power on the purple wire at that time.
 
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