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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this in a different forum a few days ago and didn't get any replies, maybe it will get more visibility here.

I have just purchased a 1970 2 door nova. For now I'm not going crazy, just want to get her road worthy. She just came back from paint, runs, has no windows, no interior, no lights wired up.

I've decided my first tasks are to order/install weatherstripping, gaskets, rubber bumpers and then scrape the old insulation off the inner roof.

This is my first restore and aside from a few basic repairs (glancing constantly at the Haynes manual) on my Ranger I have no automotive knowledge so I'm learning as I go. Please take the "explain it like I'm five" approach if you explain anything.

Here are my questions:
-Is Window felt necessary? Is the purpose to keep dust out of the door's interior?

-How is weatherstripping attached? I see pictures in some catalogs of a little plastic piece protruding from the weatherstripping. Others just show a roll of rubber striping. If adhesive is always used does anyone have recommendations on a brand/type?

-Is the Rear bumper to body seal necessary? Will the bumper hit the body without this seal?

-Are rubber stoppers the same as rubber bumpers (for door, hood, trunk, etc)? I'm seeing a mix of terminology in the catalogs.

-Eckler's is the cheapest on many of these items. Does anyone have experience with them?

-What is the best way to get the insulation off the inner roof without damaging the metal underneath or the paint job on the opposite side?

I have a Fisher Body Manual on its way. I'm debating buying a nova Haynes manual because reviews say it isn't very model specific.


Thanks so much for any advice.

-J
 

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Welcome to the Nova addiction!

Just remember, at some time or another every one of us was at your current point on the learning curve - most of us loooong before the innerweb thingy!! So, don't be afraid to ask questions, that's precisely how we all learned.

I'll answer your questions in reverse order:

1. The residual insulation (fuzz) on the inside of the roof is fine to be left as is, I would not remove it - just brush off the loose stuff and proceed with the headliner install (put all screws in place before the headliner install!!!!). There is no rust between the fuzz and the underside of the roof panel, just glue

2. I've never bought from Eckler's, but can tell you that most all of the parts companies are selling the same repro items from the same suppliers. Some sites will list the actual supplier name (Ground Up Resto for example), and some guys have a preference for certain suppliers - AMD for sheet metal, and Trim Parts for emblems and door handles for example. But, for the most part the resto parts market has become a commodity business based on price competition. So, I've come to buy from the closest supplier (to limit shipping costs) who have the most frequent price / shipping special offers, and the easiest to use web site = Ground Up Resto (for me).

3. Generally, a stopper fits into a hole (think plug) while a bumper sits above. However, the term is frequently used interchangeably.

4. The rear bumper to body seal is really intended to redirect water runoff from the deck lid away from the rear tail light panel and into the space between the rear bumper panel and the rear bumper itself. The rear bumper will not contact the rear panel in any way if the seal is not installed, however it will look unfinished. Know that the factory actually stapled this seal to the attaching flange, which is a PITA to duplicate, but you don't have to do so - it can be screwed without any knowing because the attachment location is not visible once installed.

5. The door weatherstrips are attached two ways; small 'push in' plugs around the door itself (these plugs are preinstalled into the door weatherstrip) that are best installed with a dull screwdriver blade wrapped in duct tape, and squeezed into a channel around the door glass frame. No weatherstripping adhesive was used from the factory to my knowledge, although there are some areas where it might have been dabbed to ensure a complete seal. I think most repro door weatherstrip is mf'd by Metro, which has worked fine for me.

6. Yes, window felt is absolutely necessary - easy to install if/when the door glass is already out, and very inexpensive. Some parts suppliers call it 'run channel felt' and it is simply pressed into place. Start at the bottom of the door glass below the door handle and then make some angle cuts when you get to the upper corner, a pair of sharp wire cutters work best. Terminate the run channel where it meets the wing window, run a separate piece of run channel felt in the wing window channel if you wish, I typically do not replace that section because I've found that the door glass tends to pull it down when rolling down the window since the factory piece tends to fit a bit tighter.

My son and I literally just finished these exact tasks last weekend on his '69 Nova SS!! Whatever you do, keep asking questions!!!!
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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-J

Look around for some Nova Vendors - some/most all will mail you out a catalog. Those 'catalogs' are very good for looking at/for your parts , and, shows you just what some strange parts Are CALLED.

Ecklers , Lutty's, Classic Industries catalog, H&H classic Parts (hhclassic.com), 62 - 74 Novas.
Classic Chevrolet Nova Parts 68-74 (ClassicParts.com) -- both good catalogs.
Then with your 'Fisher Body Manual' -----------
You need a "Factory Assembly Manual" for your year car -- that's the one with GM part numbers & How to's assembly book ( I bought two - one in th' house & one in th' shop.
Also, Check out "HeartBeatcity.com web site -- it's a Camaro Site .
HBC , also list the GM Factory Assembly Manual Part Numbers , for all their parts (and, says what cars : "Fits Camaro , Nova, Full Size Chey, ect ( or, Impala, ect). And, they (HBC) alway have a picture of their parts, so you see what you get . I have used / bought parts from HBC , they treated me good - right parts the 1st time ..... I even sent parts back ( was my fault , (ordered wrong parts , Me not them).

just FYI

Weather-strip-trim glue ... 3M type (comes in 'yellow or black' ) ... use/buy the Black (yellow REALLY shows up against the black weather strip rubber , black/black just looks cleaner). You may not need to use very much , but , good too have on hand. Look at the 3M Brand of
"Strip-Caulk" -- that does come in handy for some jobs.

Hope this helps .....
 

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Thanks! Didn't start out too pretty, but that's what made it such an awesome Father/Son project over the last 16 years - a fraction of the progression pics.



Tell us more about yours.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, guys/gals.

I bought my '70 right after the previous owner finished the body work, before he painted it. So there's zero interior, which is a little of my problem, I dont know what's missing because there's nothing there now.

He had just built the 350 and the muncie transmission.

I appreciate the recommendation on the Factory Assembly Manual, I hadn't heard of this.

I've got a handful of catalogs on their way.
 

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Thanks, guys/gals.

I bought my '70 right after the previous owner finished the body work, before he painted it. So there's zero interior, which is a little of my problem, I dont know what's missing because there's nothing there now.

He had just built the 350 and the muncie transmission.

I appreciate the recommendation on the Factory Assembly Manual, I hadn't heard of this.

I've got a handful of catalogs on their way.
I don't know if it would be helpful to you, but I have a chassis service manual and a chassis overhaul manual, both original GM publications, for a 1969. Not much changed in that respect for 1970. $25.00 (for both, not each) plus postage.
PM me if you're interested.

Gerry
 

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The stuff on the interior roof is a pita. Mine was coming off in fragments as I drove the car. Not fun getting it in your eyes. I scraped it off with a putty knife and cleaned the metal surface with a wire wheel on a right angle grinder.
It’s easily one of the nastiest jobs I’ve done but.. I cleaned up all the metal surfaces with lacquer thinner and applied self adhesive sound deadening material. So much better..

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619946&highlight=Peel+seal

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627202&highlight=Sound+deadener
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The stuff on the interior roof is a pita. Mine was coming off in fragments as I drove the car. Not fun getting it in your eyes. I scraped it off with a putty knife and cleaned the metal surface with a wire wheel on a right angle grinder.
It’s easily one of the nastiest jobs I’ve done but.. I cleaned up all the metal surfaces with lacquer thinner and applied self adhesive sound deadening material. So much better..

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619946&highlight=Peel+seal

https://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627202&highlight=Sound+deadener
That is a good point. I was all for just leaving it if it wasn't going to be a problem, but I didn't think about sound deadener. I found a good deadener called noico through another thread.
 

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I humbly suggest you cruise through my build thread (link is in my signature). I go through complete disassembly and reassembly there of most of a Nova. I learned as I went, and made plenty of mistakes along the way. But, there's a ton of knowledge available if you're willing to search for what you need.
 

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I humbly suggest you cruise through my build thread (link is in my signature). I go through complete disassembly and reassembly there of most of a Nova. I learned as I went, and made plenty of mistakes along the way. But, there's a ton of knowledge available if you're willing to search for what you need.
Now I need a snow day so I can read your thread! My son (with the green SS Nova) has a 2001 Trans Am WS6 Ram Air for a daily, and I've become a little more acclimated to the LS platform - quite impressive, and now I'm thinking about a swap into a Nova.... Maybe I'll just live vicariously through yours!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I humbly suggest you cruise through my build thread (link is in my signature). I go through complete disassembly and reassembly there of most of a Nova. I learned as I went, and made plenty of mistakes along the way. But, there's a ton of knowledge available if you're willing to search for what you need.
I'll check that out.

Sadly the only thing I did a real in-depth search on so far was the bench to bucket conversion and never did seem to find a method anyone was really happy with. :)

I guess it's one of those things that's a pain in the butt whether you use a kit or not.
 

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The seat tracks are the challenge.... they repro them now, but I've not yet heard if they are any good.

My son's '69 is a real bucket car, but I had to modify a pair of unknown tracks and then bought a single '68 bucket just for the tracks - and it still isn't right. One of the tracks is either too high or too low, we'll figure it out in the next 60 days - but just know that the tracks are the real PITA...

Note the 'gangsta lean' to the driver's side head rest...
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Progress:

Not a whole lot, I got sick and had some down time after getting her to the house. Now that I'm at it I have a few questions:

I bought some plastic putty type scrapers and got the worst of the old interior padding off. The only place I haven't got is where the roof supports are blocking my access. You can see it in one of the pictures above. I don't think the roof supports are done correctly anyway. Aren't the roof supports supposed to sit against or really close to the roof metal? Correct me if I'm wrong, but assuming so if I just cut the tack weld will the roof be okay temporarily without it? I'm assuming the supports are to keep anything that falls on the car from hitting me? After finishing the padding removal and putting down sound deadener I will find someone to fix and re-weld the supports.

I got new batteries for my drill and a box of drill wire brushes to finish the job.

Second:
It looks like a previous owner did a sloppy paint job and got some on the window molding. Does anyone know how to get it off without damaging the chrome?

Related question, how many molding clips do I need for the front and rear of a '70? I noticed some little nubs around the rear window opening (glass isn't in yet) are these what the clips attach to? If so I can just count those.

I need to buy the clips and a molding removal tool (I may need to get some chrome off another nova to replace a couple of dented pieces). Is there anything else I'm missing?

Thanks in advance
 

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I don't have much technical to add here, but I do want to commend you on asking questions and to all the respondents for providing guidance. I've also found having a print catalog is very helpful because you can easily see lots of different kinds of parts at once and realize what things are called or what might need replacing.

For removing that paint from the trim, I would start with a green scouring pad and if that doesn't work I would use a fine steel wool to get the paint off. Always start with the least aggressive method and work your way up. I'd follow that up with metal polish on a microfiber or terry cloth to restore the finish.

I can't help you on the trim removal, but I look forward to hearing what others have to say about it!
 

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For removing that paint from the trim, I would start with a green scouring pad and if that doesn't work I would use a fine steel wool to get the paint off. Always start with the least aggressive method and work your way up. I'd follow that up with metal polish on a microfiber or terry cloth to restore the finish.

I can't help you on the trim removal, but I look forward to hearing what others have to say about it!
I would NOT use Scotch Bright (the green scouring pads - they also come in other colors red & gray for metal finishing) on the chrome trim pieces unless you want to scratch the chrome finish.. You can try lacquer thinner to see if it will remove the paint and acetone to chemically remove the paint.. At a minimum it should soften the paint and you can use a plastic scraper to or old credit card to push the paint off of the surface without causing any undo harm to the finished surfaces..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Great, thanks, guys. This is where I will start.

I actually wasn't sure how easy it was to accidentally take the chrome off, so I feel better now about getting into it.
 

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I've also found having a print catalog is very helpful because you can easily see lots of different kinds of parts at once and realize what things are called or what might need replacing.
Thanks, I've built up a stack of catalogs now as well as a body by fisher...and one other one I'm drawing a blank on.
 
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