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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the quick story to the point. 63 SS rust free with mustang II front end and aligned today by an old school shop. The car drives straight and handles excellent with manual steering. Steering wheel is perfectly straight while driving. New Cragar SS 15" 5 lug wheels with the conical seats that was speed balanced today and weights applied. The balance is dead nuts on each wheel. So-Drive home at 55 it's perfect-at 60 shimmy starts. Not bad but enough to notice. Any ideas? Any suggestions?

Bob in CT
 

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Hey Bob. Had this same problem with my 63 SS Convertible. Tried everything.
Ended up the driveshaft was out of balance...very slightly bent. Had to replace it, but solved the problem.

Bob
 

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shimmy at higher speed

Sure hope you find the solution.

My 68 has had that problem for at least 2 years.

I have pretty much run the full gamut with one exception - the manual steering box.

If I can find a new steering box, I will probably give that a shot.

I have balanced the driveshaft; new u-joints; tried a different set of tires; changed front rims; balanced tires; added ViKing adjustable coil-over shocks, visual inspection at speed, motor mounts, etc.
 

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Here's the quick story to the point. 63 SS rust free with mustang II front end and aligned today by an old school shop. The car drives straight and handles excellent with manual steering. Steering wheel is perfectly straight while driving. New Cragar SS 15" 5 lug wheels with the conical seats that was speed balanced today and weights applied. The balance is dead nuts on each wheel. So-Drive home at 55 it's perfect-at 60 shimmy starts. Not bad but enough to notice. Any ideas? Any suggestions?

Bob in CT
Did it shimmy with your old wheels..?
 

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I had a similar problem on my Honda Accord. Couldn't figure it out for a long time, so I started to remove things part by part.

Turns out there was a small burr just where the hole of the wheel meets the O.D. of the hub that was preventing the right front wheel from seating perfectly flat against the face of the rotor. It was just enough to cause a wobble at high speed...never thought to check the wheel as it was turning, but it had a wobble as a result.

Be sure the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub are clean, burr or debris-free, and seated perfectly flat. At least that was my problem. Let us know what solves the issue.
 

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I had a similar problem on my Honda Accord. Couldn't figure it out for a long time, so I started to remove things part by part.

Turns out there was a small burr just where the hole of the wheel meets the O.D. of the hub that was preventing the right front wheel from seating perfectly flat against the face of the rotor. It was just enough to cause a wobble at high speed...never thought to check the wheel as it was turning, but it had a wobble as a result.

Be sure the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub are clean, burr or debris-free, and seated perfectly flat. At least that was my problem. Let us know what solves the issue.
I agree
you said replaced rims
but can be bent rim, a bad tire,bad tie rod,sometimes a second opinion on wheel balance
 

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im not saying it cant be driveshaft/diff angle but that is felt more on ones butt in the seat than a wobble in the steering wheel.
60 mph vibration sure sounds like driveshaft tho.
bad or poor quality tires will cause a wobble
 

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I agree
you said replaced rims
but can be bent rim, a bad tire,bad tie rod,sometimes a second opinion on wheel balance

You might want to try something very simple and rotate the tires to ensure it isn't a hidden flaw in one of the tires themselves. Had a similar problem on a work truck after the tires were rotated as normal maintenance. Once I put them back to the original positions, shimmy went away.

I had the balance checked again using "road force balancing" and one of the tires was "OK" but right at the high end of "normal". I replaced both suspect tires as they were about 1/2 worn out. The problem disappeared.
 

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2 things come to mind.

First what were the caster numbers??? Use the analogy of a shopping cart. Ever get one the wheel wobbles back and forth? Caster issue.

Second. Can you drive throught it? Starts at 60 so does it get worse at 70 or better?
 

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I can not really understand a shimmy in the steering wheel being related to drive train. This is very possible, if it is driveshaft vibration, but it would not be a shimmy it would be a vibration in the steering not a shimmy. My input comes from years of dealing with bump steer, death wobble, related to steering arms, suspension links, tie rods, heim joint, and worn shocks. 1st you have new wheels. Assuming it is a shimmy rather than a vibration and the issue has developed from the insertion of new wheels into the picture then this is the start of your CSI. If the wheels are the same size then swap front to back, if not try your old wheels again. Check your old wheel offset against the new wheels to be if not identical at least not radicaly different. If different, the load placed on the spindle, upper & lower ball joint, control arm, strut rod bushings, sub frame bushing, strut bushings, idler arm bushing may be an issue. The load has changed! Check wheel to mount surface as mentioned earlier. If a wheel is bent the wobble should show on the balance machine unless it is very minor and can still cause shimmy. You said Mustang front clip so I take it it is rack and pinion steering?? If not there is a set screw on Saginaw P/S boxes that can be slightly tightened and may help slop. Next ALL rod ends, arm bushings, SHOCKS which can trigger it. Re-check alignment! Process of elimination!
 

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Shimmy above 60 mph

Try Hub Concentric rings for your wheels... a tire shop should have them. right now your depending on the lug nuts to center your wheels... worked for me :turn: good luck

:usa:
 

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Maybe were are over thinking this.
Another thought. How is your suspension connected to the car?? bolts?? welded??
They are tight or the frame isn't crrack or poor weld job??

CSI is a good one!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
still battling the wheel shimmy....

My wheel shimmy is still there, After much investigating I'm beginning to wonder if the Cragar SS Uni-Lug wheels that I bought are my issue. Goggle has 100's of complaints about the same thing, not being a direct bolt in.

Anyone fighting this problem too? Bob
 
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