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Discussion Starter #1
I've been takin advice wherever I can get it, but It's conflicting. I,m putting a stick in her but I think I have to much cam. forged machine shop balanced with victor high rise, torker cast iron heads. close to 10.1. lunati 575-578 and 273/279 duration. heads ported to intake, ran 1/2" fuel line so fuel is no issue other than the sorry state of pump gas. I don't care about idle just want her to scream. so Too much cam?:confused:
 

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I've been takin advice wherever I can get it, but It's conflicting. I,m putting a stick in her but I think I have to much cam. forged machine shop balanced with victor high rise, torker cast iron heads. close to 10.1. lunati 575-578 and 273/279 duration. heads ported to intake, ran 1/2" fuel line so fuel is no issue other than the sorry state of pump gas. I don't care about idle just want her to scream. so Too much cam?:confused:
273/279 duration is that at .050
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks

thanks for the input, I just didn't want to be stupid. on another note I Hate those @#!&^ spirial locks on the spotsman pistions, I know they are good but infuriating, thanks all for the info.
 

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thanks for the input, I just didn't want to be stupid. on another note I Hate those @#!&^ spirial locks on the spotsman pistions, I know they are good but infuriating, thanks all for the info.
I was told to spring them out a bit by stretching them(where they will stay sprung out a little on each side). Done it that way a couple of times and it is easy to get them in. They fully seat and lock in as supposed to. A machinist told me that and it works for me.
 

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-Do you have correct springs on the head to accomodate needed spring pressures?
-And with 1.6 rockers your lift is ~ .616. Can you handle the lift without coil bind?
-Adequate piston to valve clearance?

Just something to make sure so you don't run into problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
trusting my machinist on the springs, picking up heads in a couple of days, will check for valve clearance before final assembly, my pistons are dished so it shouldn't be an issue, my machinist (Mark) also got me my rotating assembly, was going to by kit but most have 3/8' instead of 7/16' conecting bolts, went with iron eagle crank and scat rods, have my push rod length checker in hand hoping they fall into an "off shelf" length.
 

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trusting my machinist on the springs, picking up heads in a couple of days, will check for valve clearance before final assembly, my pistons are dished so it shouldn't be an issue, my machinist (Mark) also got me my rotating assembly, was going to by kit but most have 3/8' instead of 7/16' conecting bolts, went with iron eagle crank and scat rods, have my push rod length checker in hand hoping they fall into an "off shelf" length.
I went with the Scat I beam rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts. It's hard to beat them for their $300 price tag and still rated to handle up to 750hp.

I want to say my pushrods ended up being 7.100. I think a factory (hydraulic)roller is 7.200 long.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah the scat I beams seemed to be the best way. The forged Iron Eagle crank was a bit pricy but machinist said It was much easier to balance than the scat crank. from what I've been able to come up with this motor is not going to start breathimg good till around 3500 rpm.
 
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