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Discussion Starter #1
just dropped in the new engine in my 66 II. the front part of the oil pan seems to be touching the steering rack.... is that how it is or do i have a problem?? what does urs look like.
 

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One of my friends has a '63 Nova with the Heidts front end. His engine is a stock 350 with a stock rear sump pan. The front of his pan HIT the rack also.

He cut some tubing in half and cut out the front of the pan and welded in the curved part to clear the RACK.

Bryan
 

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what kind of mounts are you running? they make a short and tall mount, if im understanding corectly the motor is sitting to low and is touching the rack with the bottom of the pan? if this is the case look into a tall set of motor mounts. might be enough to make it clear.
 

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Your having the same issue we had with our car. We went through 4 oil pans before we got one to clear. The final pan was a mildon that has a notched front pan. The other pans do not have the slope at the front of the pan.

Joe

 

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I was JUST about to post the same question!!!!
I just installed my motor over the weekend and had the same issue. I've got a heidts front subframe with the manual rack and a 434 sbc. my pan is also touching, but due to the size of the rotating assembly inside the motor, i don't really want to try and clearance another pan, only to find out that one hits also. i had to loosen the bolts on the rack to gain some clearance, which got me thinking if i should just notch the holes a little lower for the rack.

the motor mounts for the heidts front end needs to be the short and wide (from what i was told by heidts), and i dont think the narrow and tall mounts would work.

I THINK WE ALL NEED TO CALL HEIDT'S AND EXPRESS OUR CONCERN TO THIS PROBLEM!!!!!!
 

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Guy's I am telling you it is the pans they are making now days. The cheap blanks they are using are not tooled the same as our old pans.

I had an old pan and hit it with tape measure and the front of the new moroso pans are now too wide to fit these frames. The only one I could fine that would clear the stroker 383 was the mildon pan. This pan still has the tooling with the front part if the pan contoured back.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
pan clearence

is that 7 qt. a deep sump because i i have one inch cut out of the coils and even a small extended sump will get ripped off..
 

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its the 7 qt low profile one . i have bout 3" ground clearence , same on header flanges
X2. Same pan, I had the same clearance before but the springs were old and soft so it would bottom out. Put new MII springs, had to cut about 1 !/2 coils to get it to sit at stock height. Now i have about 4" clearance but am thinking about lowering it another 1/2". I too had that problem with the pan so i used the longer moroso solid mounts and worked out great.
 

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i had to cut 1/2 coil after bout 500 miles to get ride height.
the new springs will settle when new , so dont cut yet.:D
 

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im running a milodon pan on my heidts front clip and have no issues its close but not like that :no: i also have two inch drop spindles and im running energy suspension motor mounts as well
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ride heigth

on mine i got it w two inchs cut off the coils and it looked sick!!w a stock size oil pan(old motor) and i bottomed out and spun the drainplug so i ordered a new set of springs. w stock springs my crossmember was five inches off the ground and w the old springs it was oviously 3 inches so i cut out 1 inch on the new coils and and doesnt bottom out and still looks great.pics coming soon.i will look into the new pan and motor mounts thnx. i would also really like to get somelongtube headers that tuck up and wont get ruined from ride height.
 

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On my hooker long tubes, i think its the driver side, it sits about 1/2" below the milodon 7 qt. pan. They did scrape on speed bumps with the weak springs but not with the new ones at stock ride height. Hope this helps. I can take pictures, just let me know what you need.
 

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I had the same problem when I went to a larger oil pan. I just cut down some thick wall pipe and made spacer to space out the rack about a 1/4".:yes:
 

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hey Sosick,.... so is your pan resting on the rack? or what did you do to fix the problem?


1slow64...do you have any pics of either the spacers or what it looks like now? - is it still pretty close or do you have a lot of clearance? spacers are a good idea, i just think i would have to use longer spacers than 1/4"...
 

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Yes this area is a tight fit. I retained the 194 6 cyl in mine. Had to change it to a rear sump pan to clear the Heidts weld in crossmember. Has plenty of clearance everywhere else. its just real close to the manual steering rack. In the pic, I used the stock bolt in crossmember to determine my engine install height to get it back to the stock location. but you can see how close the steering rack is behind it.
I too had to cut some off my front springs to get it to sit right and have some bounce in it. I have a set of 350 rate springs in mine and had to cut one coil off each one. Mine had too many coils, bowed out and actually touched the shocks when installed. The Heidts springs are just too tall in some instances to work properly with their full lower "economy"control arms. But even in their instructions for their weld in cross member, they suggest cutting the front springs 1/4 coil at a time to obtain the correct ride height.
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Discussion Starter #20
fixed

ok so now the problem is solved.hopefully we'll c. first of all i have smacked my crossmember and rack on the pavement several times becsuse their used to be two inches cut out of my coils but i raised it up an inch. so what i did was loosen up the bolts to the rack and it moved downjust a lil bit and what i also did was ding in the pan w a hammer just a lil bit. since the rack is so close to the front of the pan it seem like it was directly under the front main cap. so i didnt and ran the motor and its not interfering w the crank at all and i have clearence between the rack now. ill see how this works out and let u all kno. i will post pictures tomorrow.
 
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