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Discussion Starter #1
I am hoping to install my heads and intake this weekend. Read some good stuff in the "best of" but wanted to confirm a couple things....

1. My machinist says he never soaks the lifters in oil, just makes sure plenty of cam lube. What say you?

2. I have standard fel pro head gaskets and ARP bolt set. Whats the best sealant to use with the head bolts and do they ALL get sealed? How much? I was figuring a smooth, not too thick even coat. I have a bottle permatex white sealant with the brush on the cap and was planning to use that. I don't want to use the grey anti-sieze right? Cause I think that doesnt have any sealant effect.

3. For mock up, when I set my intake on the heads it sits absolutely perfect. Once I get the head gaskets in that could change but I don't anticipate any major end gaps. Per the "best of" I will use some red RTV as that seems to be the sealant of choice. I will visualize how much I need but I don't thinks i'm gonna need much. Will let is cure a bit before I drop the intake. If by chance I go too much with the sealant, is it a bad idea to finger swipe any excess? Not so concerned about the rear but I want the front to look nice and not messy.

thanks!
 

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I use a liquid teflon on bolts going into water jackets and a black mopar RTV for gasket surfaces(intake). Make sure you apply RTV on the top and bottom of the intake gasket at the water ports. I dont see a need to let the RTV cure a little before insatlling unless the engine is going to run really soon after(48hours). What color is your block? That would maybe change you RTV choice. One thing I always do after setting a intake is get your finger wet and push the excess silcone out of the dist hole. When your finger is wet the RTV wont stick to it. I would also soak the lifters because it cant hurt better safe than sorry. I use lucus as a assembly lube! For head gaskets I use the copper spray sealant but someone else I am sure will corrected me if there is something better.

Make sure you adjust your rockers before you install the engine in the car and before you install the plugs it will just make it alittle easier. You might still need some adjusting after it is running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I believe my Permatex is the PTFE with teflon so that should do it.

Is sealant really required for the fel pro blue gaskets? I thought their cmposition properties sealed things up when torqued. A bit around the water jackets seems like a good idea but I never heard of any additional spray sealant for the heads. At least, I don't recall doing that on the one engine I put together years ago....never had a problem.

Any sealant needed on the intake bolts?

My engine is chevy orange/red. I just freshened it up and it sparkles! Blue RTV is definitely out. I guess the red would be fine.

Yes, I was planning on adjusting rockers and priming before I install the engine. thx!
 

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I believe hydraulic lifters need to be soaked in oil. I've never used any sealant on head gaskets, but I don't run any crazy compression ratio either. As far as the intake, I do use silicone around the water jackets and where each gasket meets another. Intake bolts in SBC are notorious for leaking oil if you don't use a little silicone. Be sure you don't let any excess get into the engine, oil passageways don't like that stuff.

I like black silicone myself. For no other reason than when I was 18 and couldn't afford an oil pan, it was the only color that would seal my pinhole with any reliability. Wow, the memories. I'm almost embarrassed to share that one.
 

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The color has nothing to do with the choice. "Red" RTV is a special high temperature formula specifically for engines. It was developed in the seventies by GM and Dow to help seal engines for the 50,000 mile emission criteria. There may be other colors made by other companies that may or may not have the same specs.

Set the intake on the bead of RTV so it sticks. Install the bolts but don't torque.
Make sure there are no gaps. Don't slide the manifold around.
Let it set for about 20 minutes. RTV stand for Room Temperature Vulcanizing.
Time will be longer if cold. The reason for letting it cure is to develop preload or spring back.
If you just squash it down it just oozes out.

Then torque in equal steps in the shop manual inside to out side pattern.

Yes, It's ok to to use your fingers to wipe excess, but using too much can ooze into the valley. Don't use too much. Don't use too little.
 
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